rbhelle

Hi there. Here in Norway, more independent workshops, now include haldex filter pump service (cleaning) every 30 000km. This means both haldex 4 AND haldex 5. Both needs cleaning. I will do my haldex 4 servicing soon and that will include haldex filter replacement, haldex oil and cleaning of the haldex filter on the haldex pump. There is just a small filter there to filter the haldex oil. On haldex 5 there is no separate haldex filter as it is mounted directly to the pump. Also just did my rear diff on the same car and I must say, do car mechanics really mix up the haldex fill/drain plug with the rear differential drain/fill plug? I know they are located pretty close on VAG/Skoda 4x4 cars, but pretty easy to locate.... My skoda superb now has 211 000km on the clock and have been serviced by a local workshop since it was new. So haldex service every 60'km with filter, oil/filter every 15'km. But never any rear/front diff service, until now, when I did it myself. After 210 000km the oil was not sludgy or miscolored. Looked pretty much like newly used :-) Will do front during christmas. It was hellish to get access in front, so need a bit more time and a looooong hex pipe. To me it looked as one have to disassemble the brake disc to actually see what I am doing inside the heat shield of the axle. Maybe I will unmount the axle heat shield just se get a little more space. And to do that I need the newly bought hex pipe.

Buy subscription with www.partslink24.com. The you will always find the corect partsnumber for ypur specific car. Autodoc delivers and chooses correct parts to your car only when you type in the original partnumber e.g. OEN "G052 145S2" and so on. Searching only by VIN or license plate number will give you all parts that was delivered to that specific model type, but not your car. Same goes with VIN number.

Done it and 1 hout i more than adequate to get the whole manual downloaded in pdf format

Yup, replacing egr coole on CR tdi engines are trully a f.....nightmare, but also pretty rewarding, since it actually gives you permission from wifey to buy more tools that you probably didn't need 🤣 But hey, who cares as long as the toolbox keeps growing 😉

Febi Bilstein is absolutely premium quality. Very close to OE. I use braking parts, axle parts, suspension parts and of course oil and lubricants from them. With Febi Bilstein you wont do any harm.

Yup, long answers are good. I actually did a search myself at Febi. So, I figured it out. Both will do and both are within specs. I do believe that 75w-85 is just for MPG economics and 75w-90 is for better endurance... 🙂 Will use 75w-90 GL-5 on both diffs from now on. Downloaded Erwin updated manual as well, so now it is just do start reading and doing.

Long answer, what I could interpret, 75w-85 and 75w-90 both GL5, meaning they can be used as rear diff oil.

Or just buy new EGR cooler 🙂 Guess it saves time and friendship 🙂

I have checked OE partsnumber catalogue; www.partslink24.com. But feel free to check: TMBLE73T2B9051897 The original diff oil is G 052 145 which is listed as e.g. Febi Bilstein, partnr 48785. 75w-85 GL-5 OEN G052 145 and G 055190, G 052 190 But, from different workshops,mechaincs etc, one can also use 75w-90 GL-5 fully synthetic as well. Will be heavier, but also better lubrication under hard use.

First of all, a drop from 12.06v to 11.75v in so short time indicates that you have a problem. Also, a lead acid battery, even if it is new, will probably be damaged if voltage drops under 12v. One cannot rule it out. A fully charged and 100% working battery should measure around 12.8v. A drop in short time down to 12v might as said ndicate damage to a cell. Well, to start measuring any drainage, I would at least start to measure current draw by checking the fuses, one by one. Hook up a multimeter that measure the current amp from yor positive terminal and while looking, remove fuse by fuse. In rest mode, the car should not drain any more than 20-25mA (0.025A). If wiring is faulty, a current draw at 2-500mA will drain out your battery in a week. And that will destroy it. So, start with the fuses and current draw is my tip for you.

Also, use a multimeter and measure power drain. Easiest is to get someone to read the multimeter while you unplug fuse by fuse from panel to check. There should not be any more powerdrain than maybe 20-30mA.

2011 Superb MK2 4x4 with haldex 4. Rear differential oil change. Oil spec from VW group is G 052 145, 75w85 GL-5 fully synthetic. But this oil is thinner than 75w90 and it is due to mpg VW specifies 76w85 gl-5 instead of 75w90 gl-5? I have had several VW/Audi diesel 4x4/torsen cars and all rear diffs have had 75w85 gl-5 specs (some diffenrences when it comes to OE partnr). But I also notice that most users and also workshops actually use fully synthetic 75w90 GL-5 in rear diffs on VAG cars. Anyone used G 055 911 (75w90, GL-5) instead of G 052 145 (75w85, GL-5) in their rear diff and noticed any "hiccups"?

But I do remember that I had full access to the loom 😆 from inner door throught the door hinges...sorry if that was of no help, but you will see it when you take down the outer inner door panel 👍

Its not that complicated sir. Buy a rivet set with different sizes and a rivet gun. Also, it might be so that you don't need to diassemble the inner metallic door plate also, just the outer to access the wire loom. In that case, no need for a rivet gun. Take a look at youtube to see if someone else has made a video how-to. I worked on a VW Golf MK5 when I did this and stripped down the whole door since I replaced the door lock module. Don't remember if I could access the door wire loom before or after inner doow diassembly.

Also look here for how-to: https://www.instructables.com/ŠKODA-Superb-MK2-door-panel-removal/

Have done this on a VAG Golf MK5. Same prodecure, and the easiest way to get good access, is to disassemble the inner door panels. First the outer one and then the inner one. Then you will have decent access to fault finding through the door cables. Unfortunately, there is no other way that I could find giving med more space to fault find the cables through the door. You will proably need a rivet gun to asseble the inne metallic door plate again. Need to drill out the rivets for disassembly.

You need to scan your car with vcds, obd 11 or similar iot get more info.

New in forum. Have Skoda Superb Estate 3T 2.0tdi 4x4. Do all jobs my self in own garage. Also owns aAudi Q7 Etron and Golf 2 estate.