rbhelle

Yes, it is. The CR engine in MK 2 is primarily the EA189 engine, and the CR engine in MK 3 ia the EA288 engine. They are a bit different, but not much. Just a litte more cumbersome to change oil on the EA288 engine (oil filter from under engine). EA189 has oil filter on top of engine for easier access. Also the ea288 engine is more advanced and fuel efficient. I will argue that no matter what engine you choose, get a vcds or obd eleven. Diagnosing is crucial in order to get anything done on these cars.

Well, Skoda with 2.0tdi CR engine is less affected than what you see in Audis V6 2.7/3.0tdi engines from 2006-2013 and the V6 3.0tdi engines from 2013 and above. So, I have had my superb with 2.0tdi CR engine inspected and no issues detected in the flaps. Of course, the electric motor running the flaps could fail, but that is to be expected for a 14 year old car with 250'km on the clock. I do believe you will be satisfied with Skoda and swirl flaps would not be my first concern regarding their 2.0tdi common rail engines.

Hi Phil. I own a 2011 superb 2.0tdi cr engine. Yes, one might be bothered with issues, but it is avoidable. It comes down to driving style and use. Cars that are driven in "lazy mode", lots of cold starts and seldom taken up to running temps, will likely have major issues with swirl flaps or intake manifold flaps. Cars used as they should, good engine temps over time and always run long enough to reach optimal temp, will habe fewer issues. I mean, the best way to prevent manifold issues are to once a week take it for a longer ride, at least 80-100 km/h for an hour or so. Or, connect a trailer to it and drive it so engone gets to work with oil temps above 100-120 degrees celsius. A diesel engine likes to work hard occasionally around 1800-3000 o/min.

And, yes, it is recommended to at least inspect your stabilizer bushings. If they are good, no need to replace. But as previous poster said, they are a pita to replace in-situ. Better do it when subframe is down. Btw, when you take down subframe, make sure to use subframe guiding location pins. If not, it is likely you need a wheel alignment after work is done.

Should be good with old bolts if they have never been reused. VAG elsawin states that subframe and dogbone bolts are to be renewed, but as long as you dont overtight it should be ok. They are stretchbolts, so maybe not stretch them to much. They are called TTY bolts, torque to yild.

232 000km/145 000miles. But glow plugs are already replaced once approx 70 000km ago/43000miles

Sunday work on my 2011 2.0tdi cffb, 4x4. Did my intake and it was a decent job to do. Cleaned it for any carbon/soot deposits and there were some gunk inside. Replaced my injector seals as well and replaced other seals on the manifold and throttle body as well. My car doesn't habe any dpf issues due to driving conditions, but a clean inside doesn't hurt. Good for mpg and my own mind. Also cracked loose the glow plugs and greased with copper paste so they are easier loosened when replacement is due. All in all 4 hours spent in garage on a nice sunday afternoon.

Next up now, is to start doing this youself, and use saved money to buy yourself some more tools 😆 All my saved money is spent on new tools and gadgets to fix my own car more efficiently and that equals more savings. And behold, more tools 🤣🤣 But yeah, I do also car works for other people in home garage/workshop I must admit. Its a hobby and it is a great way to learn even more.

Wow, that is what I call a very, very decent price for 4 shocks and labour! At least compared to Norway. Up here at a dealership it is more like 2000 GBP all 4 shocks and labour...maybe even more. I was quoted 1000GBP just for the front absorbers (not electric ones)

Sometimes, simple is often the simplest solution :-) Both will work. It is just a bit time saving to run the haldex via software, especially for workshops on a schedule. You also got around 100ml ish-150ml ish in after running the engine to build up pressure? I think I got 100-150ml ish and almost 800ml ish in total. Or maybe 780-809ml ish. Difficult to measure an absolute number :-)

Might be that you damaged the sensor wiring during disassembly or assembly? Also it is vital to refill dsg oil when oil is up to temp in order to get the level correct. Refilling is thus done in 2 steps. But guess you are aware of that 😀

You have read about the faults here? http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17100/P0716/001814

Holy mother of g....!!

Here is a pic of the vent hole that can be used to top off the bevelbox/angle gear/transfer box (same part different names) if subframe is down. It is not possible to reach that vent hole when subframe is mounted. Not at least with my hands. I used a small tube connected to a 200ml big syringe

A tips for those who do this job. Be sure to fill in 2 stages. It is supposed to be 850-900ml in there, but all will not come out during drain. So at least put in 650-750ml. First fill until drips out of fill hole. Probably only 5-600ml will be initial. Then start engine and put in 1.gear let it reach some temp. If on lifter, just let it run. Or take it for a spin. Then top off again. You will probably be able to get another 100-150ml in now. It doesn't do any harm to overfill a bit, since it is a drain hole on top of the diff/transfer box that will shoot out exessive oil if overfilled when warm. A tip for those of you who replaces dmf or bevelbox, when subframe is already down. You can actually fill bevelbox as usual, but also top off by filling through the mentioned vent hole on top. You will be able to get 800-850ml inside the transferbox without driving it then. The vent hole is on top of the pinion gear ish.

If it is your transfercase that I think your wife posted in skoda group facebook? That transfer case looked shattered. Aka you will need a replacement or new. Is it possible for you to buy from Norway? Or sweden? There are many used ones here, but maybe shipping will destroy budget.

Check oil level in bevel box. Metal parts etc. Even better, open it up and inspect bearings and races. If good, reseal with new bearings and new oil. Should be 850ml total. Or, buy a new used one if damaged. Rare fault but do happen. Extremely costly to buy new. Replacing is some work, but doable for a diy with knowledge and tools. I have replaced 2 transferboxes and opened up both. Takes some time yes. But better spending 300gbp than 7-8000 gbp fpr a new incl labour.

There is of course another way. Alle wheels on ground. Take off one wheel. Screw back one of the wheel nuts and put jackstand on the nut and slowly lower car. Scary of course, but will do the trick.

Even on a 2 post lifter or scissor lifter, the manual states that one should tie down the car in order to avoid it raising from the lifter to avoid damage/falling off. That will of course be even more important with stiffer springs. I had std springs.

I know, but thats was done before I bought a scissor lift....so, I had to improvise and adapt...

Torque it when it is on the ground then. I did that once and worked fine. Or use drininvg ramps if it is a very low car.

Correct, you can find a suitable spot on the subframe to use your jackstand. Or even better a suitable spot where the subframe is mounted to the chassis.

And you sure that whole diff needs replacement and not just the bearing? A lot cheaper to do bearing than whole diff... 4x4 Parte4x4 Parte - Haldex rear differential repair kit 2..4. and...Set of bearings / repair kit for the rear differential with haldex coupling of 2nd, 4th and 5th generations of VW Group vehicles.Done this repair myself and it is not difficult. Did not do the pinion gear, but that is often not the problem.

As I said, in principle the same procedure. Drain oil, replace filter, refill with pump check temp and top up. Difference is 2 drainplugs, but basically same procedure.

@Faly See dm. Send me your vin nr and I'll check etka for your car. It might be on your engine/gearbox another slave and not a concentric one. I should have said that concentric is mostly on diesel engines as I have experience from. Have never actually owned a petrol vag, so need to check for you then 🙂