xtp77

I thought that maybe, in between the dealership and DIY, there was the third option: having a trusted mechanic taking care of things would be feasible. But basically it is not viable as the costs still pile up, albeit not as fast as with a dealership. Only way I would think keeping the car longer would be having a gasoline manual car (no DPF, simpler injection, no DSG). And then, I *really* love the automatic DSG, and that seems to be a 5k ticking bomb.

I asked in another post what to change in my 2.0TDI DSG as it reached 260k km and 12 years. As I was trying to put the plan into practice, I got into a discussionwith my mechanic. My mechanic was refusing to do a lot of the work. For example, he was adamant not to change the shock absorbers, which are fine enough (and they are) and insisting I keep that money, for the future. And I was insisting I wanted the car to last 10 years more, so I might as well have brand new shocks for the next 10 years. So he retorted with a killer argument: Your car is not a 1.9TDI that will last 500k km. I see very few of these who reach 350k km. Hopefully not, but you will be hit by a combination of injectors + DSG + DFP (+Adblue, but mine doesn't have it yet), and each one of those is anywhere between 2k to 6k EUR to fix. So when the first one of those issues happens, you probably will fix one. But you will know the others are around the corner, and get a newer car with the money you would have spent on fixing this one. It may not happen this year, but if I were you, I wouldn't bet that it won't happen in the next five years. And when it happens, I want you to have the money you would have paid for all those things, and not be upset that you overspent now. Is this combination of punches [Injectors + DSG + DFP (+Adblue)] the fate I am going to face and how it is going to end? Does the forum have similar stories? I just saw someone being quoted 2k GBP for a flywheel, so that tracks. In related news, I need to save, bc my other car is a Sharan, 2.0TDI 140CV, DSG, Adblue, and less km but more years, so I will be buying two cars in the near future.... The most important thing though: I have a mechanic I can trust and who is refusing to do unnecessary work. Let's cheers to that!

Thank you so much @rbhelle. This is very very rich, and exactly what I was lookking after. As I get this done at a mechanic, I need to prioritize which ones to get done and which ones to wait longer. Any ideas are welcome. I do have a couple of follow up questions: I have vibration at 1200rpm when the engine is under load, like climbs or overtaking. I have no idea the source, and I thought maybe the engine mounts would minimize it. No particular vibration at idle, so unclear whether is the DMF. If the DMF is going to make the car have less vibration, I will be happy to do it. What do you think? Mostly yes, except the springs, I am not sure why would I change them. Also, you mention below the stabilisator link from from suspension strut to stabilisator. Is the stabilisator link not the same or included with the suspension in #1 above? > 3. EGR cooler. Its just stupid not to replace it when doing dmf. Will fail soon and just when you least want/expect it. I will do it if I go after the DMF. For the rest, not many questions, just pasting below my own notes for reference > 4. Manifold flaps and do clean the throttle valve please. Just open ot up and see, I bet it is clogged as f....and also do the mod on the intake from the exhaust pipe into the egr valve. OK. I will ask the mechanic. > 5. Replace all glow plugs, likely a fail if not already on 1 or more. I believe one or two failed. But I don't remember if in this car, or the Sharan. Will check > 6. Replace all stabilisator link from suspension strut to stabilisator. Is this not the same or included with the suspension in #1 above? > 7. Check the level of diff oil on front rear diff (if 4x4) and clean the haldex pump, house replace haldex oil and filter. Not appicable, FWD. > 8. Replace dsg thermostat (located under/beside battery tray) Is it worth doing at the same time as DSG maintenance? > 9. Replace engine thermostat (typical fail on vags when above 250'km) I will ask the mechanic > 10. Buy door locks and rear door lock actuator, maybe also fuel flap filler actuator since these do fail when reaching 300'km (just keep them stored until the day you need them) I will probably wait on this one, more in repair mode. > 11. Heater core os a known problem, so it is possible to have this in store as well. Reactive to this one too. > 12. Also check the nut on the AC compressor as tjese a known to fail (the get loose over time until failure). If nut/bolt is loose, just tighten it to specs. I will ask mechanic.

It should not be the case. Obvious question: How old is the battery? If yours is anywhere in the vicinity of 4 years or more, it may be worth changing. You are using the heater because it's winter, and in winter batteries fail. I have just replaced mine, because at 5 years old it was no longer reliable. Best to think of the battery as a consumable: after the 5th year, I just change it to avoid being stranded. And as you live in Sweden, colder, maybe even a shorter useful life, I don't know.

I have two cars with sunroof (skoda and sharan) and I wasn't aware. Maybe not told, maybe not paying attention 🤷‍♂️ Thank you for the info, most relevant to what I want to do! In any case, for my reference to do this soon: Maintain Sunroof Main ideas: Drains. Clean 1x year Rubber seal. Clean and add glycerol Contour of glass. Clean Rails. Grease 1x year. Special white grease Tip: Avoid driving open sunroof in really bumpy road Video with detailed cleaning process: Lubricant grease I bought: https://www.amazon.de/Liqui-Moly-3312-Silicon-Fett-transparent/dp/B00295DBQE/ Unclog drains detail And on cleaning the AC system, here are details on how to dismanlte the ventilation blower (for deep cleaning) AC disinfectation All these seem to be in my ballpark of DIY, so I will keep the mechanic for the other parts. I am still not clear on why I should clean up the AC, as there is no smell whatsoever.

Thanks for the ideas! AirCon serviced, yes regularly, but good to have on the list. HVAC sanitized? I don't even know how to get started on that. I change the pollen filter myself, any references on how to sanitize HVAC? Drains. Not to my knowledge. I didn't even know there were drains on the doors. How much DIY would this be? Any links on how to clean drains? Sunroof. Never done. What would it entail? Changing all the seals? I guess it would make sense to do to preempt damage if water comes in.

Thanks for the ideas. Injector cleaner is cheap and easy, will definitely do. The heater fan has become slightly noisier, so may look into that.

Thank you for the clarifications! Fear not, I wasn't planning on DIY. But I still have to tell the garage what I want to get done beyond a basic maintenance, particularly if I want to be proactive. Any ideas on what to ask to preempt broken pieces or reduce vibrations are welcome!

PS: I found a list of fluids to change and adding it as a reference Motor Oil > Done regularly Transmission Fluid > Done with DSG 2y ago Brake Fluid > Added to the list Engine Coolant (?) No idea > Adding it to the list Power Steering Fluid No idea > Adding it to the list Differential Fluid (?) No idea. Does this car even have a differential? > Adding it to the list Windshield Washer > Done regularly

Our 2.0 TDI L&K has now 11 years and 260km. I looked through the maintenance records in detail. While I was scrupulous with fundamentals (filters, brake pads and disks, oil changes, DSG and timinig belt) since I have had it (8 years), I can't find any evidence for anything else. So I am going to do a car refresh. Two goals: Improve driving and vibrations on one hand (zero work on suspension ever), and preempt problems on the other. I would appreciate the forum recommendation on whether I am missing anything critical. What pieces would be important to change after 10y - 260k km if they are still factory originals? Here is my list so far: NEVER DONE AND I WILL LIKELY DO: Brake fluid Engine Mounts (unclear how important, but hoping it may reduce some engine vibrations at low RPMs) Suspension ball joints control arms sway end links shock absorbers wheel bearings DOUBTING WHETHER IT IS WORTH DOING: Radiation hoses other plastic pieces on the coolant system Brake lines Wheel refurbishing So, what am I missing from the list? What is a must to refresh after 11y / 260k km? PS: The most recent things I have done and when: MAINTENANCE LAST KM MONTH 4 filters and engine oil 244 2024-01 Rear brake disks and pads 235 2023-08 DSG 213 2022-05 Front brake disks and pads 200 2021-06 Timing belt and water pump 181 2019-12 Battery 2019-12 Electric tailgate 167 2018-08

Hi! In the picture, you can see a paint chip in the lip of the bonnet that is starting to rust. As I live in the middle of Europe, wet weather all around and park outside... A. How bad will it get in 1 year or 5? Given the car is 12 years old and 250k km, maybe it is not worth fixing if it doesn't become an issue. B. Any favorite videos or tutorial on how to fix it? I am not looking for professional results, just to contain it. Also, I noticed smaller chips all over the bonnet. I wonder if this is just going to become more and more prevalent. Thanks in advance!

Congratulations! The Octavia looks very cool. Quick question: How does it feel to change from the bigger Superb to the Octavia? Particularly in the interior space, trunk. For me, as I often carry the kids, actually teens, in the back, I think they really like the extra leg room. But I am sure the vRS is a lot of fun to drive. Tradeoffs!

Definitely beyond my capabilities, but here is what I found. Thank you for providing the cost of changing the engine mounts. I may have to go down that route. As the vibration has some mechanical origin. About the vibration: The car vibrates in the 1200-1400rpm range, particularly when I push the accelerator pedal to get more power, like a climb. I was testing yesterday with the DSG, and when in 4th, 5th, 6th at that range, when I push the accelerator pedal to 60-70%, it shakes noticeably, and it is very clear on a climb (I can't press it fullly because then the DSG will down-shift automatically even in manual mode). Otherwise, it is independent of speed, and as I just changed the wheels and tyres for summer, independent of those. Looking at the forum, it seems the source of the vibration may be the engine mounts, or the air intake. Any other ideas are welcome though!

Interesting idea. The car is 11y.o. (I get mixed up with the other car). Any idea of the cost of doing that at a mechanic? Even a ballpark number 100 EUR? 500? 1000?

Mine just didn't work one day. I hadn´t noticed anything. At that point the car was 5years old, 160k km. Minor caveat, performance may have degraded and I had missed it. I had the car for less than a year at that point, so maybe there had been some degradation. At the same time, part of the beauty of having an electric opening is that I pay no attention. I often press the button from the inside or far away, and it is opened when I get to it. So maybe it was taking 2x time and I didn't notice. However, once it was fixed, it moved exactly as it did before breaking down. So I don't think you can notice. The only maintenance advice I received, to make them last longer: always use the electric system and don't lower it yourself by force or lift if faster (unless it no longer works, and then, who cares).

Overall summary: Definitely worth the effort, clear improvement, far from perfect. And this car will always be a noisy Diesel. In more detail: Effort: The above work took me about 2-3h of work (albeit split in mini sessions, waiting for materials to be delivered, etc...), and a total cost of 100 EUR. Very reasonable. Result: Measuring the car, here are the noise levels (no music, no AC) I measured with an app after doing all of the above, on average: 42dB Cold engine idling 33dB Warm engine idling (surprising reduction of noise!) 55dB climbing a steep hill at 60km/h, cold-ish engine 62dB 130km/h highway, mild climb Frankly, I have no idea what the above numbers mean, and also who knows whether an app on my phone is a well calibrated device, most likely not. With hindsight, a before and after measure in a controlled area of road would have been a better way to measure. So maybe the more important is... Perception - Positive: Very interesting! I do perceive less noise in the car. But as this has been a somewhat long process, due to waiting for materials, I think I got used to it. It is easier to talk inside the car, the reduction on noise from the back was very noticeable after the foam layer, and now after the final foam I also sense a drop in the engine noise, which is the most important. The best way to describe how I percieve the change is this: the engine noise is the same, but it feels like the engine is located further away. Like instead of being in front of me, the engine is located five or 10m in front of me. To describe the effect, the analogy that comes to mind is that the "before state" felt like like having a neighbour doing some noisy renovation. And then the "after state" is like the renovation has moved two or three houses down the road. It is still the same nature of noise, it may still be annoying or distracting, but it is much more muted. Which brings me to... Perception - Neutral/Annoying: Two things haven't changed, and those make the result not as good as I expected. 1. Vibrations. The level of vibrations that comes from the engine into the cabin has not changed. The kind of vibration one can feel in the heel, in the pedal, or when resting the leg on the side. Those vibrations remain the same before and after and affect comfort. This car would not pass the Lexus Champagne Glasses Balance At 145 mph 2. Diesel sound. The nature of diesel noise is more annoying vs gasoline. The noise is more irregular, coarse, definitely not smooth, thus perceived as noisier and more annoying, and the vibrations are higher because of the compression ratio. Here is a good explanation: Why Diesels Are So Loud? Why Are Diesel Engines So Noisy?. And, of course, the nature of the diesel sound doesn't change with my DIY project. And even if I went 10x on noise insulation, the nature of the noise would remain annoying, less precise. So my perception of the engine noise and vibrations is definitely still there, just more muffled. Which is good, but definitely not perfect. For the final round of FAQs: Would I recommend doing it? Yes, simple nice little DIY project that does reduce the noise. Will I do more noise dampening? No, this is enough. I will not do more DIY and will not go to a professional. Mainly because now it is quiet enough, and also because it wouldn't change the vibrations and coarse nature of the sound. So what will you do next reegarding the noise? Enjoy this car for as long as possible and accept the nature of the noise Consider a gasoline car, and/or luxury car which is more insulated for the next one And that's it. Now onto the next thing...

I am done with the project. Final notes: ACTION 5: CAR BONNET 2. SOUND INSULATION LAYER. After completing the alubutyl layer, I placed a layer of sound aborbing foam. The material is superlightweight, specially compared to the alubutyl. So no impact whatsover in the lifts. Things to keep in mind: Challenge 1: Because the bonnet structure is "like a spider with a sun in the middle", it was difficult to place a continuous layer of foam, so I had to do multiple cuts. It doesn't lok pretty, but there is a layer of foam in most of the bonnet. Challenge 2: The material is thick, about 10mm, so it is important to leave areas without materials close to the clips that keep the heatshield in place. The clips still hold, but some were strained. Challenge 3: There are areas between the two layers of metal that are hard to reach. I still put material, because I had leftover and it is lightweight. Challenge 4: The adhesive can stick while one is trying to position the foam piece, so need to be careful. A couple of pictures to illustrate. Picture 1: The bonnet with the alubutyl layer BEFORE applying the foam. Underneath the outer sheet of metal, there is a circle in the middle, then an outer circle, and six beams of metal that are on a different plane. Pllus other irregularities. This makes the application complicated. Picture 2: The finished product. Notice that some of the "metal rays" have no foam on top, because that would prevent the clips from holding the heatshield in place. Also, it has so many cuts and small pieces, it was very difficult to apply a single continuous phase. Still, I'd say that there is 90% coverage of the surface. Often there is foam underneath the metal sheet that can be seen in the picture. Both in the beams, but also underneath the margins. Picture 3: Final state with the heat shield back on. I placed a but of alubutyl beyond it, but I don't think it matters much. So, after all of the effort, was it worth it? I will do a summary post right below.

I don't know. What I know: I will put a layer of alubutyl and one of sound absorbing foam on top of it. The first prevents the hood from rattling, creating and amplifying noise like a speaker or a guitar body. To do so, it has to be well glued to the metal sheet. The latter to absorb as much noise as possible. I am unclear on whether neoprene would be similar to either one. Also, I mainly saw those on Amazon, I don't recall neoprene. Or maybe it goes with another name.

This picture shows what I did in the spare wheel. As my main focus is diesel engine noise, this was really quick DIY. Maybe in the future, I will do a second passing.

I find it very interesting. I was wondering whether the car has become noisier with age, due to more rattling and aged sound absorbing materials, or I have become pickier. Maybe both. To your questions: I put the foam under the spare tire. I figured it would be kept in place and absorb vibration directly. Plus no hassle if I ever need to use the tyre. I will try to upload picture later. I have added approx 1 sq meter of alubutyl, which is 3kg approx. The weight distribution matters, I put more densely the material close to the cabin, where it creates less leverage, and less farther away. I also thought I wanted more material close to the cabin Lift holds the bonnnet without issues. However, no idea how close to the limit of extra weight this is. Even before, one has to lift the bonnet a bit to open it, and now it is a bit heavier. The heat shield covers all alubutyl. The shape matches the rubber seal along the engine bay. I have doubt's on whether material beyond that shape would effect the noise level at all The heat shield is, and will remain in place. With the alubutyl, as it is only 2mm thick, there is no problem. Once I have the sound reduction foam, I need to be more careful as it is 10mm thick. I reckon that 10mm extra thickness will not allow the clips holding the heatshield to hook properly. So at least around the clips, no foam. I will have to figure that one out.

Continuing today, with the layer of Alubutyl ACTION 4: CAR BONNET 1. ALUBUTYL LAYER So I did most of the layer. It is a complicated material, because of how it has to be applied. Super important to (a) clean the surface well with alcohol and (b) get a roller, in order to make the right pressure. If the rubber doesn't glue well with the metal, it will not dampen the vibration. Also, there are no big surfaces in the bonet, as it has this "double layer structure", with a sun-like, or spider-like in the middle, which makes it difficult to apply the material. I made multiple cuts of material and applied it with the roller. RESULT: Noticeable less vibration from the engine, but not as effective as I expected it. But I found the noise less intrusive than before. The noise was less droning, which is exactly what I am goinf after. RECOMMENDED? Yes, because it is still an easy access area and the vibration is less. Next step will be to put in sound absorbing foam and see how it works together. Below: Picture of the alubutyl as I was halfway done with the process.

Diesel vs petrol makes a huge difference indeed. Thanks for the suggestion. I would like to go down that route, but I don't want to DIY removing the carpet and getting to the metal. I don't think I can pull it off. Well, maybe I can pull the carpet off, but not put it back on properly with all the seats and connectors and damaging nothing. It is easier when you build it from scratch If I don't get enough noise reduction, I may ask for an audio-car shop to do it for me. And your call out on flammable materials is very valid. I am checking for operating temperatures of the material, and so far it should be good. Last thing I want is a really quiet bonfire of a car!

Adding a bit of detail on the carpet insulation. The underside of the carpet before applying the insulation: After applying the noise insulation: And the topside is exactly as it was before, so nothing to see: And then it fits into place nicely.

While overall super happy with my 2.0TDI, I hear too much the engine noise. It is not the end of the world, but it grinds me down on long journeys. And particularly when I compare with the Volvo S60 I used to drive. So I started researching how to make it quieter. This post is documenting what I have done and I will do. And in case anyone has ideas, just add to it. 1.- Ideas to get references: The superb III owners has a very long thread (23 pages and counting) on the topic. It made me wonder that maybe the mk2 is better in this regard. This YT channel has interesting material. Example video: Sound Deadening a Car Where It Actually Makes a Difference! A bit off topic, but this video How Much Weight can you REMOVE from your Car? (Weight Reduction) opened my eye to the insane amount of insulation material you can find in a BMW 3-series. I do suspect you won't find the same in a Skoda. Insonorizar Coche a Nivel Profesional | El Secreto de los Coches de Lujo. What would it take to go full in into making a car quiet (in Spanish) 2.- My plan. So I won't go a fully deep as the pro-video at the end (though I may consider it), but I do plan on making the 20% that may give 50% of the return. Bonnet insulation, trunk insulation, and a quick change in the floor mats. 3.- Progress so far: ACTION 1: In the trunk, I put sound absorption under the spare wheel. There is very little sound dampening, but I made a quick fix. I got approx 1x1m sound absorbing foam, made a hole, and threw it under the wheel. This was super quick to do, and about 14 EUR for the foam, if I recall correctly. RESULT: My goal is mainly to reduce engine noise, so it had no impact there. But this was super quick and easy. Interestingly, the back feels way quieter. Right after doing it, I game me the impression that a chunk of the car in the back was missing, because I didn't hear as much noise. RECOMMENDATION?: Yes do it, because it is super fast. Also, it can be undone, there is no glue involved. Picture of the kind of material I am taling about. Picture of the wheel space BEFORE I put the foam. I have no after pictures, but basically anywhere you see metal sheet (brown), now is covered with foam. ACTION 2: INJECTOR CLEANER. I read it may help the enginge run better and be smooother. I had to do it for maintenance regardless. RESULT: No difference in sound. RECOMMENDATION? For the injectors, and also it is quick and cheap. But no noise change at all. ACTION 3: NEW CARPETS, AND STICKING NOISE ABSORPTIONUNDERNEATH. So I got new mats, because the previous ones were too old. These are rubber, as they fit better how I use the car. Happy with the mat, and decided to stick a 1cm thick sound foam underneath. It took me some time to cut it to size. RESULT: Less vibration through the feet. A bit less of noise probably. RECOMMENDATION? Optional, but I do appreciate a bit less of vibration. Also, super easy place to add noise insulation on the interior, as one has perfect access. ACTION 4: CAR BONNET 1. ALUBUTYL LAYER So now heading straigth to address my main problem with engine noise. This requires a bit more time, and I am still working on it. First, I removed the headshield in the car... and there is the heat shield, that starts to show its age (14 years), not looking flexible and letting go some powder. Also, the bonnet metal sheet has zero sound dampening or insulation. I don't know if the heat shield is supposed to absorb noise, but I do not think it is in any condition to do so effectively. So yesterday, I started to apply alubutyl layer, and sticking it. I am only 40% done, because I ran out of time and the surface is complicated with all the different crevices. This is a bit of a tiresome job. RESULT: So far, inconclusive. I can't sense a difference. but I am not done.... FUTURE ACTIONS: ACTION 4: CAR BONNET 1. ALUBUTYL LAYER, COMPLETE IT. Maybe in a couple of weeekends I will have time, and then... ACTION 5: CAR BONNET 2. SOUND INSULATION LAYER. I will add a second layer of sound insulation foam. From the videos, alubutyl mainly prevents vibration on the metal, and the job of the sound foam is to absorb the noise. So both work together better. I will report back with pictures on both processes. ACTION 6 - MAYBE: Figure out where else in the engine bay can alubutyl and sound insulation be applied. ACTION 7 - MAYBE: Put noise absortion in the front wheel wells. UNLIKELY ACTIONS: I won't go any deeper on a DIY mode (no door panels, removing seats and carpet, dismounting pillars,...) If I am not satisfied, I may go to get a professional sound insulation, the kind that removes the seats removes carpet removes car panels ...and adds insulating material throughout. Like the Spanish video I link above. Any ideas on cost? If I am not satisfied, make peace with it. Or save a lot of money and buy a Lexus. That is my plan. Any ideas, welcome! I will report back as I make progress.

I just replied a really old message, LOL. To your recent question: I really don't know. Here everybody switches from winter to summer wheels without any issue.