xtp77

I thought that maybe, in between the dealership and DIY, there was the third option: having a trusted mechanic taking care of things would be feasible. But basically it is not viable as the costs still pile up, albeit not as fast as with a dealership. Only way I would think keeping the car longer would be having a gasoline manual car (no DPF, simpler injection, no DSG). And then, I *really* love the automatic DSG, and that seems to be a 5k ticking bomb.

I asked in another post what to change in my 2.0TDI DSG as it reached 260k km and 12 years. As I was trying to put the plan into practice, I got into a discussionwith my mechanic. My mechanic was refusing to do a lot of the work. For example, he was adamant not to change the shock absorbers, which are fine enough (and they are) and insisting I keep that money, for the future. And I was insisting I wanted the car to last 10 years more, so I might as well have brand new shocks for the next 10 years. So he retorted with a killer argument: Your car is not a 1.9TDI that will last 500k km. I see very few of these who reach 350k km. Hopefully not, but you will be hit by a combination of injectors + DSG + DFP (+Adblue, but mine doesn't have it yet), and each one of those is anywhere between 2k to 6k EUR to fix. So when the first one of those issues happens, you probably will fix one. But you will know the others are around the corner, and get a newer car with the money you would have spent on fixing this one. It may not happen this year, but if I were you, I wouldn't bet that it won't happen in the next five years. And when it happens, I want you to have the money you would have paid for all those things, and not be upset that you overspent now. Is this combination of punches [Injectors + DSG + DFP (+Adblue)] the fate I am going to face and how it is going to end? Does the forum have similar stories? I just saw someone being quoted 2k GBP for a flywheel, so that tracks. In related news, I need to save, bc my other car is a Sharan, 2.0TDI 140CV, DSG, Adblue, and less km but more years, so I will be buying two cars in the near future.... The most important thing though: I have a mechanic I can trust and who is refusing to do unnecessary work. Let's cheers to that!

Thank you so much @rbhelle. This is very very rich, and exactly what I was lookking after. As I get this done at a mechanic, I need to prioritize which ones to get done and which ones to wait longer. Any ideas are welcome. I do have a couple of follow up questions: I have vibration at 1200rpm when the engine is under load, like climbs or overtaking. I have no idea the source, and I thought maybe the engine mounts would minimize it. No particular vibration at idle, so unclear whether is the DMF. If the DMF is going to make the car have less vibration, I will be happy to do it. What do you think? Mostly yes, except the springs, I am not sure why would I change them. Also, you mention below the stabilisator link from from suspension strut to stabilisator. Is the stabilisator link not the same or included with the suspension in #1 above? > 3. EGR cooler. Its just stupid not to replace it when doing dmf. Will fail soon and just when you least want/expect it. I will do it if I go after the DMF. For the rest, not many questions, just pasting below my own notes for reference > 4. Manifold flaps and do clean the throttle valve please. Just open ot up and see, I bet it is clogged as f....and also do the mod on the intake from the exhaust pipe into the egr valve. OK. I will ask the mechanic. > 5. Replace all glow plugs, likely a fail if not already on 1 or more. I believe one or two failed. But I don't remember if in this car, or the Sharan. Will check > 6. Replace all stabilisator link from suspension strut to stabilisator. Is this not the same or included with the suspension in #1 above? > 7. Check the level of diff oil on front rear diff (if 4x4) and clean the haldex pump, house replace haldex oil and filter. Not appicable, FWD. > 8. Replace dsg thermostat (located under/beside battery tray) Is it worth doing at the same time as DSG maintenance? > 9. Replace engine thermostat (typical fail on vags when above 250'km) I will ask the mechanic > 10. Buy door locks and rear door lock actuator, maybe also fuel flap filler actuator since these do fail when reaching 300'km (just keep them stored until the day you need them) I will probably wait on this one, more in repair mode. > 11. Heater core os a known problem, so it is possible to have this in store as well. Reactive to this one too. > 12. Also check the nut on the AC compressor as tjese a known to fail (the get loose over time until failure). If nut/bolt is loose, just tighten it to specs. I will ask mechanic.

It should not be the case. Obvious question: How old is the battery? If yours is anywhere in the vicinity of 4 years or more, it may be worth changing. You are using the heater because it's winter, and in winter batteries fail. I have just replaced mine, because at 5 years old it was no longer reliable. Best to think of the battery as a consumable: after the 5th year, I just change it to avoid being stranded. And as you live in Sweden, colder, maybe even a shorter useful life, I don't know.

I have two cars with sunroof (skoda and sharan) and I wasn't aware. Maybe not told, maybe not paying attention 🤷‍♂️ Thank you for the info, most relevant to what I want to do! In any case, for my reference to do this soon: Maintain Sunroof Main ideas: Drains. Clean 1x year Rubber seal. Clean and add glycerol Contour of glass. Clean Rails. Grease 1x year. Special white grease Tip: Avoid driving open sunroof in really bumpy road Video with detailed cleaning process: Lubricant grease I bought: https://www.amazon.de/Liqui-Moly-3312-Silicon-Fett-transparent/dp/B00295DBQE/ Unclog drains detail And on cleaning the AC system, here are details on how to dismanlte the ventilation blower (for deep cleaning) AC disinfectation All these seem to be in my ballpark of DIY, so I will keep the mechanic for the other parts. I am still not clear on why I should clean up the AC, as there is no smell whatsoever.

Thanks for the ideas! AirCon serviced, yes regularly, but good to have on the list. HVAC sanitized? I don't even know how to get started on that. I change the pollen filter myself, any references on how to sanitize HVAC? Drains. Not to my knowledge. I didn't even know there were drains on the doors. How much DIY would this be? Any links on how to clean drains? Sunroof. Never done. What would it entail? Changing all the seals? I guess it would make sense to do to preempt damage if water comes in.

Thanks for the ideas. Injector cleaner is cheap and easy, will definitely do. The heater fan has become slightly noisier, so may look into that.

Thank you for the clarifications! Fear not, I wasn't planning on DIY. But I still have to tell the garage what I want to get done beyond a basic maintenance, particularly if I want to be proactive. Any ideas on what to ask to preempt broken pieces or reduce vibrations are welcome!

PS: I found a list of fluids to change and adding it as a reference Motor Oil > Done regularly Transmission Fluid > Done with DSG 2y ago Brake Fluid > Added to the list Engine Coolant (?) No idea > Adding it to the list Power Steering Fluid No idea > Adding it to the list Differential Fluid (?) No idea. Does this car even have a differential? > Adding it to the list Windshield Washer > Done regularly

Our 2.0 TDI L&K has now 11 years and 260km. I looked through the maintenance records in detail. While I was scrupulous with fundamentals (filters, brake pads and disks, oil changes, DSG and timinig belt) since I have had it (8 years), I can't find any evidence for anything else. So I am going to do a car refresh. Two goals: Improve driving and vibrations on one hand (zero work on suspension ever), and preempt problems on the other. I would appreciate the forum recommendation on whether I am missing anything critical. What pieces would be important to change after 10y - 260k km if they are still factory originals? Here is my list so far: NEVER DONE AND I WILL LIKELY DO: Brake fluid Engine Mounts (unclear how important, but hoping it may reduce some engine vibrations at low RPMs) Suspension ball joints control arms sway end links shock absorbers wheel bearings DOUBTING WHETHER IT IS WORTH DOING: Radiation hoses other plastic pieces on the coolant system Brake lines Wheel refurbishing So, what am I missing from the list? What is a must to refresh after 11y / 260k km? PS: The most recent things I have done and when: MAINTENANCE LAST KM MONTH 4 filters and engine oil 244 2024-01 Rear brake disks and pads 235 2023-08 DSG 213 2022-05 Front brake disks and pads 200 2021-06 Timing belt and water pump 181 2019-12 Battery 2019-12 Electric tailgate 167 2018-08

Hi! In the picture, you can see a paint chip in the lip of the bonnet that is starting to rust. As I live in the middle of Europe, wet weather all around and park outside... A. How bad will it get in 1 year or 5? Given the car is 12 years old and 250k km, maybe it is not worth fixing if it doesn't become an issue. B. Any favorite videos or tutorial on how to fix it? I am not looking for professional results, just to contain it. Also, I noticed smaller chips all over the bonnet. I wonder if this is just going to become more and more prevalent. Thanks in advance!

Congratulations! The Octavia looks very cool. Quick question: How does it feel to change from the bigger Superb to the Octavia? Particularly in the interior space, trunk. For me, as I often carry the kids, actually teens, in the back, I think they really like the extra leg room. But I am sure the vRS is a lot of fun to drive. Tradeoffs!

Definitely beyond my capabilities, but here is what I found. Thank you for providing the cost of changing the engine mounts. I may have to go down that route. As the vibration has some mechanical origin. About the vibration: The car vibrates in the 1200-1400rpm range, particularly when I push the accelerator pedal to get more power, like a climb. I was testing yesterday with the DSG, and when in 4th, 5th, 6th at that range, when I push the accelerator pedal to 60-70%, it shakes noticeably, and it is very clear on a climb (I can't press it fullly because then the DSG will down-shift automatically even in manual mode). Otherwise, it is independent of speed, and as I just changed the wheels and tyres for summer, independent of those. Looking at the forum, it seems the source of the vibration may be the engine mounts, or the air intake. Any other ideas are welcome though!

Interesting idea. The car is 11y.o. (I get mixed up with the other car). Any idea of the cost of doing that at a mechanic? Even a ballpark number 100 EUR? 500? 1000?

Mine just didn't work one day. I hadn´t noticed anything. At that point the car was 5years old, 160k km. Minor caveat, performance may have degraded and I had missed it. I had the car for less than a year at that point, so maybe there had been some degradation. At the same time, part of the beauty of having an electric opening is that I pay no attention. I often press the button from the inside or far away, and it is opened when I get to it. So maybe it was taking 2x time and I didn't notice. However, once it was fixed, it moved exactly as it did before breaking down. So I don't think you can notice. The only maintenance advice I received, to make them last longer: always use the electric system and don't lower it yourself by force or lift if faster (unless it no longer works, and then, who cares).