Adinko

Try adjusting the instrument cluster ilumination dial from minimum to maximium like 10 times, DON'T DO IT TOO FAST, SOMETHING COULD GET DAMAGED, this could clean some corrosion from the switch, than try adjusting it slowly to see if there is some sort of position where it gets brighter. I think on my fabia the adjuster is a bit crackly after the many years. Or it might be a short somewhere that loads down the circuit but doesn't blow the fuse. The knob/dial on the left that is indicated in red adjusts the ilumination of the instruments, I don't know if it adjusts the ilumination of the interior switches.

Of course there is a risk of damaging or destroying the cluster!

It is probably just the solder joints, or some corrosion in the connectors. You can test the instrument cluster through VCDS, the indicators, needles, displays,... If you know how to solder here is a tutorial it is in czech BUT in the video there are pretty well translated subtitles on the bottom, no automatic translation. If you are going to resolder it, I would reccomend replacing the electrolytic capacitors too, they could have leaked out on the board already, so thet needs to be cleaned up. THE CAPACITORS ARE RATED FOR A HIGHER TEMPERATURE than some cheap standard ones, so buy the right values from a good manufacturer. Make shure they are approximately the same size as the old caps so they fit with the covers on. Before removing the old caps mark their polarity on the board, photo everything. Be carefull with the lcds, and don't mix them up. Before resembling make shure there aren't any solder bridges nor shorts on the board, if there are any you can use a solder wick or something similar. And wear gloves so there aren't any fingerprints inside the cluster. Hope this helps.

Hi, I noticed that the 2 body plugs in the spare wheel well have fallen apart, they aren't sealing anymore. This may have partially saved the spare wheel well because it is rusty on the surfrace so some water was in there but it leaked out luckily. Also one body plug is missing from the bottom of the door sil. I want to fix the rust and I want to order new plugs for the spare wheel well and door sil. Does anybody know the diameteres and or the part numbers? How did the water get in the wheel well?

Sometimes when the solder joints are cracked the imobiliser doesn't work, so the car starts and turns off. Does your fabia start and run normally?

Hi, my skoda fabia mk1 2001 hatchback, no central locking, has developed an intermittent issue. When you pull the trunk release lever it sometimes doesn't open fully, it gets into an mid unlocked state like when you don't shut the trunk fully. You have to pull the lever again to unlock it fully. My trunk bump stop is cracked but it is still there. I think that the release cable should be adjusted. Am I correct?

Hi, I am wondering is there an obd lock for a mk1 skoda fabia?

Ok, thanks. How should I test it?

I tested the load wires after someone else on this forum, It was maybe your tutorial, it tested fine. The brushes were worn outside the allowed range difference in lenght was I think like 3mm. After replacing the regulator the charging returned.

One with the circle around the connector is a connector with damaged wires near the gearbox, it may be a reverse light switch? And the other one is a photo of the old voltage regulator showing how uneven the brushes were worn, replaced with original bosch regulator.

When I was diagnosing the voltage regulator the baterry light was on when the engine was off, than I unplugged the regulator and the light shut off. My fabia is 1.4mpi AME, hatchback, 2001, no ac, without asr, rear drum brakes

Hi yesterday I found 1 new fault code, 17911-P1503-load signal from alternator trrm DF: Implausible-intermitent. 2 fault codes that are basically basically permanent on my fabia-17549 load calculation chross check:implausible value. And 16556 fuel bank1 too rich. Than for the fun of it I ran the lambda before catalyst test, the test never finished prior to yesterday, the catalytic convertor temperature is permanently at - 32°C. But yesterday it finished after like 3 seconds the result was that the lambda isn't ok. For like a year I taught that the lambda is bad because of the 16556 and sometimes rough idle. Than I read the fault codes 1 new appeared 16517 oxygen (lambda) response too slow. I changed the alternator voltage regulator and baterry 2 weeks ago the fault code 17911 wasn't there before, the voltage that I read yesterday in measurment block from the ecu was 13.84V, stable even when I reved the engine. The engine had a leaking head gasket for a long time burning a little coolant and oil, that probably damaged the lambda. When I was diagnosing the no charging fault before replacing the regulator I tested the load wires, they were fine. I have one or 2 wires that are without insulation at a connector plug, should probably do a test from the voltage regulator plug to the wires without insulation to see if they are related. Thanks in advance for any help. If I find any related photos, tgey will be posted below.

Yes, I was thinking about buying a cheap 25Nm torque wrench. But than I realised that some seatbelt bolts need to be torqued down to 35Nm. So I looked around and I found a Proxxon microclick torque wrench 12-60Nm. It is more expensive, but it should be calibrated to an industrial standard. I think it should be perfect. What do you think?

If you have it already out, there is a part number written on it.

@steveo1Thanks for the tip. But my AME engine doesn't have exhaust gas recirculation.

Got all the stuff besides the spanners. I was wondering what torque wrench I need. Already have a 42-210Nm for wheel bolts but I don't know what range to get on a small torque wrench for example to change the oil. Because I need to change the gear oil in the transmittion.

I think it was replaced by a mechanic while he was replacing the head gasket.

@ElNinoDo you know the engine code?

It could be a broken wire.

Hi, I was wondering what tools do I need to work on my skoda fabia mk1, hatchback, 1.4mpi Ame, no ac, classic edition. Thanks in advance.

@J.R.No, replace the lambda. Because the computer calculates the catalytic convertor temperature through the lambda. And it is not possible that the stock catalytic convertor has a temperature of -32°C after drivimg rhe car 20 km in 10°C weather.

Yes, need to find someone with a smoke leak finder.

Thanks for the help. I will try to find it

I will send it in a private message