Ripmax12345

OBD11/OBDEleven is a good alternative to VCDS. Not to be confused with the name of the OBD2 standard :) OBD11 is not a standard OBD2 device. It can do (almost) everything VCDS can do, with a friendlier interface. It can read fault codes using VW's diagnostic protocol, which sounds like what you're after.

OBD11 is great but I would stay away from the one-click apps. Take the time to learn the codings and doing them yourself.

Sorry for delayed response. Fairly sure C is the one closest to you.

No problem. Skoda will tell you their parts are good quality because they want you to fork out for them. You can guarantee they'll be good quality parts, but with a bit of research and patience you can get your hands on identical quality parts for half the price online. Yes it's all about markup, imagine how much your car would cost new if every part used in the factory was costed at retail price.

Alot of the OE branded parts online just mean that they have been built within VW's specification, as in they are not a modification or upgrade. Not nessecarily that they have been 'approved' or anything. The parts Skoda sell you are obviously 'approved' which almost doubles the price, and then the individual dealer will put their own markup on the price which probably doubles it again, by the time it reaches you you're paying 2x the price. Not that there's anything wrong with these "OE" parts you find online. My favourable brands are Delphi & Febi. I know Delphi was actually manufacturing parts for VW for a while.

I have just replaced my control arms, balljoints, shock absorbers, top mounts, anti-roll bar end links and tie rod ends. I am now getting the exact same sound under the exact conditions you described. I went back under the car and realised the nut on the left-hand side tie-rod end balljoint wasn't completely tight, maybe check these on yours too?

12.2v is quite low for idle, will drop even more when engine is at higher revs. Can't say for sure, but low battery voltage causes all kinds of weird issues so that would be my next troubleshooting/maintenance step. I'd remove the battery and hook it up to a charger overnight to see if it helps.

Connector A on the BCM, pin 64 is the reversing light output. The BCM is located just above the footwell, on the side of the dash. Near enough directly above the bonnet release handle. However be careful what you attach to this. It may upset the car's blown lamp checking. It's probably fine as a signal line but I wouldn't want to draw any reasonable load from it.

First remove the panel on the side of the dash, then there's a little hole about 3-4 inch from the bottom where you can poke a screwdriver through the lift the damper off of the catch. Then tug the glovebox upwards and outwards at the same time quite firmly and it'll pop off of the hinges.

Cool. I imagine any readapting would just be to determine the natural resting height of the suspension. So would be required if you were lowering the car for example.

Hi all, This weekend i'm embarking on replacing my front control arms, balljoints, shock absorbers, top mounts and sway bar end links. OEM parts with standard alignment My octy is fitted with the vehicle level sensors on the control arms. Do I need to do any readapting after it's all fitted?

Check out this beast, it's been done. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vN7T2_ERG9Y In theory yes, it's possible to do without fault codes as the ECU software is the same across all MQB platform cars with differing parameters.

I'm not sure if i'm understanding this thread correctly... Has the timing chain actually gone and caused further engine damage? Quite an important detail missing here. I'd expect to pay anywhere in the region of £2,000-£5,000 to repair the aftermath of a failed timing chain. But just to get it replaced that's absurd.

Presumably you mean 100k. What @PetrolDave said... find a new garage, they don't have a clue what they're talking about. To broaden your search you can search for VW/audi specialist garages too. Also depends on whether the chain has actually failed, in which case i'd just scrap the car at that point. Otherwise £2500 is cheap for an engine rebuild!

I used to have a V70R japanese import, beautiful machine. I remember a timing belt replacement on that only cost me £450...

What mileage is it on? These cars are fitted with the EA888 Gen3 engine. Quite rare for the timing chains to go on these. The Gen2 however, that was plagued with tensioner issues but VW fixed it for gen3.

These cars have timing chains, not belts. They will last about 150,000 miles unless they have stretched or a tensioner has failed. Symptoms of failed tensioner/stretched chain is ticking/metallic rattling. (despite there being a million other things in the engine bay that make this sound, too) I was quoted £1800 by a VW specialist for mine. I didn't go ahead with it though.

From memory, no.. The connector is sealed around a grommit. You may be able to add extra pins into the connector, you can buy connector pinning kits quite cheaply online. Usually there's lots of spare pins on these for unfitted extras, one of those being ambient lighting which comes from pin 9 of the BCM. Sooooo, there should be space!

Edited my previous post :) I've had a look through the wiring diagrams and I can't see a switched ignition feed in the door loom.

The handle lamp is also modulated via PWM to dim the bulb, so as a power source/signal it's pretty useless. I think your best bet is running a new, dedicated power feed into the doors for the sub modules, to ensure the whole system is powered at the same time. The MQB platform is complex, and does some clever stuff. Accessory power feeds are computer controlled and usually don't correlate directly to ignition status.

By 'main module' are you referring to the aftermarket LED controller? Whats the model name of the kit/module? Have you got a pinout/datasheet handy, i'll take a look and advise if I can.

If this is for the ambient lighting retrofit, please let me know your findings! I am also trying to do this. Are you going with an aftermarket solution or are you retrofitting the OEM door panel trims?

Unfortunately the above doesn't really dive into individual connector pinouts. I've struggled to find a document that does this. I think that's a job for erWin

File is too big to upload here so I uploaded to my personal server. Will delete after 48hrs so download it please :) https://zip.lit-sl.com/u/tlgAE6.pdf

If it's the OEM ambient lighting, the door modules have outputs dedicated for that already. Although it will require some coding with VCDS/OBD11 to activate. Apologies for not being much help but I can't remember which physical pin this corresponds to.