Ripmax12345

Took my 2015 2.0TSI VRs to France last year, was Crit'Air 1 (the purple sticker) or Euro 6

I know you've already got some, but for the benefit of whom may stumble across this thread in the future: Not OE but the Halfords raised rail R2 set fit super nicely on my Mk3 estate, and were only £80 for footpacks and rails.

https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history

Unless the scanner is a VW/Audi/Skoda/SEAT (VAG) specific one, which for 30 euro is unlikely. Then no, you'll not see any data beyond the standard OBDII specfication. It would require a more specialised tool such as VCDS/OBDEleven. If you are in the UK, you can just check out it's MOT history and look for discrepancies. I'm not sure if you can/how to retrieve annual inspection mileage for other European countries.

Yeah, the actual charger block (or phone, but most likely the charger) would be the problem here. The car just outputs a dumb, constant 12v (fluctuates 11-14 depending on engine state/battery level ofc), it doesn't have any reference of what is actually plugged in.

That's another thing I forgot to mention in my post. I've lined all the metal inside the doors with the Roadkill sound deadening sheet. Then lined anywhere where metal meets plastic edges with thin foam strip. Also packed some old t-shirts into the void behind the armrests etc. Makes a huge difference to the sound, also makes the car a bit quieter to drive which is a bonus.

Can confirm the VRS ride is very stiff. Wouldn't call it uncomfortable, but you can feel every little bump & divet on the road! Great for spirited driving.

Check out the Focal Audio IS VW 165 kit. I bought 2 and replaced all speakers in the doors, without upgrading the amplifier initially they sound great, super punchy bass but just lacking a bit in volume. I've recently upgraded to a 4ch amp with built in DSP. The bass is extremely punchy and the volume gets LOUD without any breaking up (measured 118dB with REW). The sound-stage feels huge, it genuinely feels like you're at a concert. You can feel the bass deep in your chest, it's great. I don't have a subwoofer because I don't think its needed with my setup. The entire install is completely invisible too, everything looks OEM and no boot space sacrificed. I am not a fan of huge, window rattling bass. This upgrade genuinely provides a very pleasant listening experience, the whole frequency range is represented well, whilst still being capable of ribcage rattling bass. The focal audio kit is great, the speakers come in the VAG style speaker housings, and just drop straight in. If you have the base model audio system the connectors are incompatible, but that's easily remedied by 15 minutes with a crimp tool. As for connections, I use 2x VIBE speaker level converters to splice all 4 channels out to phono level, which then runs to the amplifier behind the boot lining.

I had these exact symptoms last year (2024! I haven't adjusted yet). Turned out to be the dreaded cracked water pump housing. Ended up replacing whole water pump assembly and belt for good measure as they are prone to fail on this platform. Though I have the 2.0 TSI petrol, but I think the diesels suffer the same problem? (somebody correct me if I am wrong, please)

Both front drains cleared, ran some hot (not boiling) water down them and blew into them, both seem to flow unobstructed now. Wasn't able to access the rear ones without disassembling the entire car, but they do seem to be working and the car has been parked nose-down every day for the last 3 years so presumably the rear drains don't get much action as the fronts. I poured some water onto the back of the sunroof and held the seal open with a plastic trim tool and I saw water dripping out from behind the rear bumper so i'd say they're good. Also had alot of rain last night and the interior was dry this morning 🥳 Just waiting for a dry day now to reassemble everything. I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it is to remove the front seats in the Octavia! The sunroof is still jammed shut, but thats a future me problem I think. Whenever you open the sunroof, it tilts up a little less than it normally would, then you can see the glass jolt back as the motors attempt to start sliding the glass, then they just bounce back and it gives up opening, as if its triggering the obstruction detection It doesn't open any more than a tilt. Thanks everyone for your comments/suggestions.

Update, good news! Managed to remove the sun visor & handle to pry the headlining down just enough to get to the tube. The pipe was clogged almost all the way down. Shoved some locking wire down it, then pumped some warm water through it and got it cleared. Got my hands on a wet vac and managed to remove nearly 3L of water from the carpets! I had to cut out the yellow foam underneath the pedals as that was absolutely sodden, and it unfortunately just disintegrated in the process so i'll need to DIY something here before putting the carpet back in. The thick padding material underneath the carpets i've ran through the dryer a couple times and that seems to be nice n dry now. Car is currently sat with an electric heater in it and the drivers carpet pinned up to dry the rest out. I'm going to repeat the same process for the drain on the passenger side later today as a precaution, though luckily that one hasn't leaked yet. Thank god I caught this reasonably early!

Thanks both. I didn't actually get chance to shove anything down the drain holes yet, as that was the intention yesterday before discovering the sunroof no longer opened. The water appears to be coming from where the green drain tube connects to the sunroof. Pouring a cup of water into the sunroof runners made it just pour heavily into the ceiling. I dread to think how much water is in the headlining. I have one of those tiny little thin bristle brushes with the twisted steel wire. But as mentioned haven't had chance to use it yet. I know them becoming blocked can cause it to leak but I would've thought it would result in the sunroof channels overflowing and spilling into the car, rather than it leaking out on the tube-side. I'm thinking my best bet is to just remove the headlining and the carpet completely. One reason being is to give me access to all four drains on the sunroof to inspect fully, and also to allow me to dry everything properly. I squidged the carpet this morning with my hand and my entire hand became submerged in water...! My priority this season is just to get the leak fixed, and the car dried out as unfortunately I have to use this car every day for work. Will address it with a proper fix in the spring/summer.

Hi all, I've all of a sudden sprung a major major leak on my sunroof. 2015 Mk3 (pre facelift) octavia vrs tsi right-hand-drive. It appears to be coming from the front right sunroof drain inside the headlining. I know it's quite common for these to clog and for it to spring a leak abouts where the A-pillar meets the dash, but the water appears to be coming from the roof. See video attached. In my attempt for an urgent fix, I opened the sunroof to attempt to clean the drainage channels with a pipe cleaner, incase it was that. This just resulted in the sunroof getting stuck open, bouncing back open every time I tried to close it. I resorted to holding the tiilt button down to force it to close which worked, however I can now no longer open it. The glass first tilts up, then just bounces back closed. Which I guess is better than it being stuck open, but it means I now can't get to the drainage channels! Just wondering if anyone has encountered this before, and what steps they took to rectify it? The car is currently looking sad underneath a tarp. :( My drivers footwell is completely swamped with water, so I will be removing the carpet this weekend and will probably just use the car with no carpets until spring/summer 2026. Initially the water was trickling down the inside of the plastic a-pillar trim and making its way down into the footwell. Snapchat-2073460763.mp4

It might be worth forcing a DPF regen then clearing codes, and seeing what comes back. Not sure of the exact process, but it can be done via VCDS. A quick google should yield results :)

I wondered if it was a case of the glass already being damaged, then the conditions/temp differences were just right for it to go... It scared the ****e out of me too. It was like a gunshot!

Hi all, got a weird one here! I was just minding my own business, moving forward at a crawl in traffic (probably about 2-3mph) when all of a sudden my rear tailgate glass just exploded. There was nobody near the car, so I don't think anybody threw anything, the traffic was going way too slowly for it to be a kicked up stone and even if it was a stone I wouldn't of thought this could shatter the whole pane of glass! Nor did I find any FOD in the boot after spending all evening cleaning up. It was quite a chilly evening and I did have the heaters & rear de-mister on... But this car has survived 10 winters by now! Just wondered if anyone has encountered this before? Autoglass coming friday to replace the glass. The hole in the pic appeared afterwards just from glass falling in as I was driving over rough english roads.

Thanks, from memory this is what I did and still had the error. But I will try again this evening and report back. :)

5Q0 980 653 software version 0052. What is the different procedure?

Hi, glad you got it sorted. Unfortunately the issue for me was that the software version of my A5 module (windscreen camera) is too old.

Hi just wondering if anyone has had any luck using VCTool to amend audio parameters on a MIB1 Amundsen ZR_StdNav_MOST_DAB. And which USB/OBD adapter is everyone using? I have installed the Focal ISVW65 speakers in all 4 doors with 2x Pioneer GM-D1004 amps (1 for front speakers and 1 for rear, both running in bridged mode), and they just sound like they are missing something... Wanted to see what I could do with the factory unit before I blow £400 on a Helix DSP. Thanks

Forgive me if I am teaching you to suck eggs, but can you not just put your reg in a site like eurocarparts and see what size discs it suggests for you? I've never had an issue with that.

I sent an email to Skoda customer service with my VIN and they sent back a very detailed email showing all of the specced extras and various other tidbits of knowledge. Try it out, free and easy :)

It's likely because it's streaming the media directly from the USB stick rather than copying it into memory then playing it like your conventional Windows PC would do, nothing wrong with that specifically. It'll just be the USB stick itself being poorly designed. It'll likely get hot but not hot enough to cause any damage, it'll be fine.

I recently bought 2 second hand Gemini's from an ebay seller called synetiq. They weren't perfect quality but they worked, and are in good enough nick that they can be restored. Not ideal but definitely the cheaper option for you.