Ripmax12345

I see, in that case. Back to the dealer! Not even worth trying to diagnose issues on such a new (to-you) car purchased through a dealer. Just fire it back to them.

Possibly due to low battery voltage, especially if the car had been sat in the dealer's yard for months. I'd advise taking the car for a long drive 30-40mins to give it a good charge.

It's possibly some coding trickery based on the channel priority. GH>EF>CD>AB. Maybe GH channel light function is set to Parkenlicht as normal then EF is set to something else with the dimmer value set to 0. AFAIK the BCM will smoothen it's outputs BETWEEN different dimmer values within the same channel. but it can't for example fade in or out of a light function. Would also love to know how this was done. EDIT: Just a thought... Potentially GH is set to Parkinglicht then EF is set to ComingHome/LeavingHome function with dimmwert value of 0. Though this would mean losing the CH/LH functionality and sidelights probably would need to stay on at all times. Just thinking out loud! Unless the later versions of the BCM actually supported fade in-out natively.

Sounds like a bad ground connection. PM me your email and i'll send over the wiring diagrams PDF. All electrical parts inside the tailgate are connected up with a common ground, meaning this one ground has to bear the current of it all. So if it goes bad, the effective available power to the devices is massively reduced. Which would explain why your number plate lights die when you press the boot release button. The other thing to check would be your battery voltage/health. Although i'd imagine you'd be plagued with lots of other issues if the voltage was low enough to cause this.

I've always ran 5W-40 in mine, and it gets driven hard sometimes. I've heard mixed reviews about 0W-20 in these engines but nothing bad about 5W-30/40. I'd stick with 5W to be on the safe side. It's also what VW intended when they produced these engines!

It would never hurt to hook it up to a trickle charger during the weekend or something. I'd be more concerned about the engine becoming all gunked up.

Depends! How short are these short journeys and how often?

Also being RHD, try to avoid locking the doors before disconnecting the battery. It's really awkward/risky to pull the bonnet release handle if the passenger door is closed & locked with no power. Bit of a flaw of the RHD models.

Without meaning to teach you to suck eggs, have you tried keeping the battery disconnected for a good 30-40 minutes? Will let everything shut down and reset properly. Might also be worth taking the battery out and hooking it up to an external charger overnight just to rule that out (I understand it's a new battery but still worth a shot) Also spotted a voltage too low fault in the Brake module. Low voltage can cause all kinds of strange issues on the MQB platform. I'd recommend charging the battery overnight, then putting it back in and clearing ALL faults and trying again.

When it refused to crank did you get any message on the dash or was it just totally dead at the key? Walk me through the steps of any lights/messages came up and actions you took.

Is it KESSY (keyless/push to start) ?

From the stories I've heard, I gather half the techs working in these dealerships don't actually know the ins & outs of these new platforms which results in these oddities. Fingers crossed you can get this sorted!

Christ that is expensive. Thanks for the advice, much appreciated! Hopefully I don't have to resort to 'thirdly'!

As far as I know, the antennas for all the smart gizmos are embedded into the rear glass. Did you replace the entire boot door? Might be worth pulling it off and just double checking everything is connected properly.

Hi all, I'm finally giving in and reaching out for help with this one. My sunroof makes some absolutely awful creaking and clunking sounds when driving over rough roads (something us UK folks deal with on the daily!). This noise has been going on since I bought the car nearly 2 years ago. I have googled alot and I can only find results relating to sunroofs making noise all the time, whereas mine only makes a noise when it is open. it's completely silent and solid when closed. I have tried blasting all the runners with silicon spray but this doesn't seem to make a difference. You can hear in the video it makes alot of noise when opening, but whenever a bump is hit while open, something sounds loose! It's been driving me mad and making having the sunroof open a pretty miserable experience. Anyone know how to remedy this?

There should be a tiny little button on the pillar level with the drivers seat about hip height. Press that after removing the key from the ignition, then get out and lock the car as normal. You can also double-press the lock button to deactivate SAFELOCK. This will disable the interior deadlocks and motion sensors.

The deadlocks only trigger when the car has been locked externally via the remote, all interior handles stay mechanically operational when the car is driving (with the exception of rear child locks). So a total loss of electronics wouldn't render the occupants trapped. All electronic locks pop open when the crash signal is deployed anyway, so hopefully they'll pop in time.

Don't worry. @pab567 sorted me out with the files. Will give this update a shot this weekend and report back!

Would you be able to send to me? I have the same infotainment part number, currently on MSTD_EU_SK_P3420. Out of interest, which fault code are you getting?

Bump, wondering if anyone knows what the issue is here? I have tried coding the A5/09 modules in either order, and cleared fault codes before moving onto the next module. Lane Assist and Traffic Sign Recogniton work fine (other than the known Restricted message)

Yes definitely remove it as @varaderoguy said. Lead acid batteries produce hydrogen gas when charging. If you want to be really fancy, attach a little bit of rubber hose and tuck away to divert the gases. (AWAY from the engine! and not in a cavity where the gas can collect) Overkill though, there's enough airflow in the engine bay when everything is running that the gases will get vented quickly enough.

Only the plan is good for a year, which is for the coding/adapations. You can still use it to diagnose faults/live data once the plan expires.

Yes should be fine to drive, I would just keep start-stop disabled in the meantime though. I'm sure there's thousands and thousands of VAG cars out there with replaced batteries that haven't been coded and are running seemingly fine.

Personally I would buy the pro kit and do it myself. Not only do you then know the job has been done correctly, but in my experience OBDeleven is an invaluable tool to have for many other reasons.

Hi, just linking my other forum post here incase anyone can help, thanks :) https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/531649-vcds-help-high-beam-assist