Scout-MKIII

Those parts are fairly inexpensive, but your mirror glass is not. Just use some caution when you pry it out, because you don't want to end up like this:

I've done this swop myself this fall, and besides me braking one mirror glass the job itself is simple. I just got unlucky I guess, and I suspect age of the mirrorglass itself could cause them to be a bit more brittle than brand new ones. I'm just using a bit more caution when I remove the mirror glass from now on, and just simply work my way around it bit by bit, because my mirror glass are stupid expensive because they are heated and has autodim feature as well. Personally I felt it worked best to start prying from the opposite side of what's shown in this video, and just use caution no matter. Just going full wack can break the glass if the force is applied at the wrong spot, so just a little caution. I'd also check price for new mirrors for your specific car beforehand. Mostly it's autodim feature that cost an arm and a leg, so if that's not on your car then I'm sure it's not too bad.

My car has memory seats as well. I see now why you guys mention leaving the switch in the L position, because you lot drive RHD cars, which I'm not. Then it makes more sense all of a sudden why I felt R position was natural.

I have the same car, and it's a good car. My car has 210.000km now and my goal is 300.000km and then just re-evaluate. If things are still good I'm just going to keep going because I just want to squeeze as much out the car as possible given there's no down payment on it. I also just like the design, because it's modern but not too modern. I could've bought a newer Superb design for the same price, but with less engine and equipment, and I just did not want to pay just for looks. For me AWD was the main priority, and automatic as well. However I'll be looking at petrol next time around because I did not know about the DPF thing when it comes to diesel at the time of purchase.

Weird in a newer car like that which should be a more premium model as well. I just assumed that vRS and Scout models had most extras but I'm sure they give you a list of things to throw in or leave out when you buy these cars new. My car is a 4 years older car than yours, so I find it a bit odd given something like this feature should just be standard in this day and age.

My mirrors have all features. I used to have it in the Right position since I bought the car so I'm used to having the right mirror dip down. I always back in whenever I park so it's a very welcomed feature especially for spotting lines in the tarmac.

I had noe idea that the mirror selector switch had to be in a specific position for it to work. I know I started pointing it straight down so I don't accidentally make adjustments. Anyhow, glad I asked because I assumed it had something to do with the other changes as these were done around the same time.

Skoda Octavia Scout 2016 The setting is ON and I've tried turning it off and on again several times but still not functioning. The auto open/close for parking feature does work though. I have swopped out to third party turn signals and that accent light under the mirrors as well. Are these really to blame, or can it be something else(I'd rather not get original of these as their functionality is sub par)?

Ask how much oil it uses on average. If the seller claim he/she doesn't know, that is a red flag. Ask if the DPF seems to be operating normally What MPG does it do on average Ask how old the bulbs are in the headlights, as well as any of the electrical components that are attached to it. Also ask if the front turn signal bulbs have ever been changed because you need to cut a hole in the plastic to get them out, and then order a service lid to block that hole again. Just for this alone you need to unmount the whole frontend, because the headlights cannot be pulled out without that gone. It's an MKIII thing that is just stupid, but good to know because if you need to change turn signal bulbs, it's a bit more to it than just pulling off a lid and swopping them out. Also changing Xenon headlight igniter needs the front end removed because there's one of three screws you just can't get to without that done. Rear lights are super easy access and very easy to work with, but front lights are just stupid on these cars and is good to know about in advance. One thing that is hard to overlook is checking how well the aircon works, so just do a full whack on it and see if there's any "funny" noises or if it sounds good, and just a general check to see that it actually works or not. Open all doors and inspect around the openings for corrosion. Also while you open the boot notice if the boot struts will sag or not after a little time. Also check spare tire + tools and see if you spot any rust while you look down there. Check all four jacking points on the side of the car to see if it looks fine or not. It's always good to just try a direct question and ask if the owner knows of anything in particular worth mentioning as well. It's not a complete list by any means. Just some things I thought of mentioning that are more car specific than Scout specific.

That's about what I got at 91.000 miles and now at 130.500 miles I'm getting about 35MPG. Even asking mechanics about it I don't get anything close of an answer why. Dropping it off at a shop to look into it could end up paying for nothing that will fix it, so... I've just tried some injector cleaning agent as well as DPF cleaning agent in my last fill up, so I'll just see if that does anything or not. I know that it can be hard to diagnose faults without having a look at the car, but I've only been looking at getting pointers to where to start looking. Even asking about the functionality of the DPF at my local shop makes me feel like I'm looking at monkeys just scratching their head and wanting me to just leave them alone. I refuse to just drop off my car at a shop without having a feel for what it could be and how much it could cost as well. That's like giving someone a gun and ask them to rob ya, point blank.

Just find your user manual and at least in mine it says my car can use upwards of 0.5L of oil per 1000km and that is considered within spec for warranty. My car is outside of warranty as it's 8 years old, but my car use 0.25L per 1000km and is considered perfectly normal. My car has recently tipped 200.000km so if a brand new car can use twice this amount and still be within spec, then it's fine for me. 2016 Skoda Octavia Scout

Ok, seems like I'll just have to look through the inventory of local shops where I live. Most often it costs an arm and a leg to order tiny bottles of chemicals from other countries, so I'll try locally first.

Not tried any products at all. I just thought that given the age they have lost some springyness and then the doors won't have the tension needed to resist movement. I'll look into that, but would also like to just get a little scope on what to consider when changing the seals as well.

In winter time the door seals sounds like a person sitting in the back rubbing pieces of styrofoam together, and I plan to jump on it when summer is back. Is there any aftermarket brands that are considered better or similar to OEM, and any kind of brands to avoid? I'd like to find something cheaper than OEM if they are ok and will sort this annoying issue, but I also want to avoid cheaper options that doesn't handle winter time. https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-parts/octavia-3/door seal.html Here are some options that should fit my car(I've checked by VIN number) but I have no experience with what to consider in terms of brands and pricing. It does get down to -30C and regular -15C to -20C so that is of importance given how long the winter is here as well.

As it seems to be more complex than I would have hoped I will just have to live with it. It would be great if it was simply to flip around a linkage or something, but anyhow. You can't win them all.

It's a DSG, and occasionally I would like to use the "manual" gearing option and change each gear myself. My problem is that pushing the stick forward equals upshift which is completely backwards and frustrates me every time(it feels super akward). When we need to downshift is when we are slowing down and we will be pushed forward by gravity and vice verca for when we accelerate. This is why the only rational way of deciding the direction the stick should be pushed or pulled should be the same as the direction of gravity. You being pushed back in the seat it will feel natural to pull back on the lever, and vice versa. So, is this something than can be easily done on this car and without any need for any coding or any of that, or am I stuck with the stupid stock option?

Ask the one you bought it from...

I've installed one in mine as well. Mine works 99% of the time, but that one odd time it remains in auto-off. It's a cheap little thingie so 99% is ok in my book.

When you live in the middle of nowhere you get used to remember to charge things like that. The one I got is meant to handle a lot bigger engines than I got, which is why I got it so it would be better to handle the cold. First time I tried it, the car fired up like it was summertime so I know it's dependable. That was after I had tried to crank it till I knew it just wouldn't start on its own(which is no more than 3-4 tries in the winter) It's more -15 to -20C normally, but some periods we get -30C and that is a big difference especially for electronic equipment. I especially don't use the webasto heater at all even though I got one, because it empties the battery very fast(I'd rather want to start the car than a slightly less cold car) and I personally feel it's very ineffective. If it doesn't make it warm but just slightly warms up the front window, I see no point in it. Then it's better to just start up the car and let it warm up that way. So, even though I have a booster there's no point trying to empty the battery for fun, so I'd rather want to be able to start the car normally and just have the booster as a backup.

2016 Scout with stock battery still. It's only given me a hard time a couple times when it was -30C outside, which is to be expected. That's why I got a Noco GB70 to give it the jolt it needs if it gets cranky in the cold winter. Starts right up with that one, so I just travel with it when it's that cold just in case.

So you somehow only read that sentence, and not the one before it...

I've read the main thread, but mostly I just see worries from new owners, and my car is 8 years old, so... I've also posted some questions there but the thread seems dead, as in just as an information thread. https://www.aseeducationfoundation.org/NATEF/media/NATEFMedia/VW Files/2-0-TDI-SSP.pdf The link above is something I repeatedly see in this an other forums, yet the link is dead. Where can I find that pdf so I can read up on the topic myself, instead of just asking questions? I have yet to see anyone explain how you notice if a regen is happening while you are driving, other than some mention a smell. Well, I cannot really say I've noticed any strong smells, but I also live out in the countryside, where farmers obviously do things that can smell a little from time to time. There's also no indications in the display(s) nor do I notice any other things, so how can I know a regen is actually going on so I can try to drive till it is finished? Manual says if the warning light comes on you must drive between 1800-2500rpm in 4-5th gear and above 70kmph for at least 15 minutes or till the light goes out. It does not say anything about what happens if you get above or below the rpm range for a brief moment, so it would be good to know if you 100% need to be within the range for the entire duration, because that means you cannot do this just about anywhere because you obviously need to stop if you need to stop for something blocking the road or what ever else. As I have the automatic DSG gearbox I also wonder if I can select "manual" gearing so I have full control of the rpms as when in automatic it so often want to put in next gear and get below 1500rpm which would be an annoyance during an exercise like this. I've only had the warning light come on twice for as long as I've owned it, so I just want to know what is actually correct approach. That pdf file would've been nice though...

http://www.natef.org/NATEF/media/NATEFMedia/VW%20Files/2-0-TDI-SSP.pdf I see this link posted all over but the link is dead. Where can I actually find that .pdf today in 2024? (several other forums have also posted the same link and obviously same result) I also wonder how people normally will get enough rpm without wanting to go full race mode in daily traffic especially when after a software update from the dealer the sport mode on the DSG doesn't change the rpm anymore. Only the responsiveness is altered, and before this the rpm would increase and generally be higher than in D. Obviously I can decide to shift gears "manually" but it would be nice if I did not have to. You should be able to get the car into a suitable rpm range while doing normal cruising, except I see now that is hardly the case.

The topic of this thread started by Dan77 is fuelconsumption, so there's no need to repeat things that will just be a detour. Then you are just repeating more information that will just be a detour. The car not calculating MPG correctly(The car doesn't do it. I do it. I'm a humanbeing who can use my head to calculate as well as pressing keys on a calculator) You'd know this if you had read what I've already have written. Then you ask if I've checked my oil level recently, completely oblivious to the fact I stated I've driven 56.000km over 2 years which should tell a thing or two about that as well. It would be nice if people who actually want to help someone actually read the provided information, so all these detours would not surface all the time(Same thing happened in my thread...).

You may need resistors if you change from halogen to LED bulbs, and I say may because some bulbs have chips in them that should bypass canbus. It still is no guarantee with chinese electronics. I just swopped out all bulbs in my car, and it was a bit of trail and error but it was mostly because other things needed modding, some bulbs were sent wrong, and some things got broken in the swop so it is what it is. My headlights are bi-xenon lamps with LED strip so they are different than yours, and I only got one bulb for foglights and so on so you just need to check what kind of bulbs you got and then surf around to find better alternatives. www.aliexpress.com has most of what you need in that regard, also better LED indicators for the mirrors. PS: Most socket types go by more than one name, so just google that beforehand so you might find the right bulb just under a different name.