Scout-MKIII

No need to empty the tank to measure fuelconsumption... You need amount of fuel used and what range has been driven.

I have no goal trying to drive till there's just fumes left. I fill up at the same spot everytime and I calculate range per Litres added each time and I've done this over 56.000km so as stated earlier I believe that's more than enough data. No need to empty the tank to measure fuelconsumption.

7 litres lmao what the hell. I've managed to squeeze in 1.5L above the 50L but 7L.... That's pretty hefty man. My Octavia Scout 2016 has a 50L tank as well and I'm not really counting the 1.5L because I normally fill up right after the reserve light goes on. I also only use my trip counter which I reset every fill up, and personally I've checked mileage over a 2 year period and 56.000km, so there should be more than enough data. I also see how much Litres I pour into the tank every time so it's got nothing to do with indicated mileage left and so on because I never use that. I look at the tank gauge and compare that to my trip counter as well as from time to time what amount of diesel has been poured in and so on.

I own a 2016 Scout as well(engine code: CUPA) and my official Skoda dealer says at 210.000km/130.000miles and my regular independant garage also says at 210.000km/130.000miles. My car is now closing in on that so I will soon have that done(belts + waterpump etc) If it's not included in the kit I'll have them changing the thermostat in the same go, because why not.

I posted a similar thread a short while ago, and got nowhere. I hope there is anyone out there who might know. On my car I've lost about 65-70 miles per tank which to me is also annoying.

Makes me think I have that issue as well. I handed my car over to an independent garage earlier this year to have my brakes bled because the pedal was too soft. When I got the car back it was barely any difference. As I have not owned this car since it was new I do not know how it's supposed to feel, but I have still wanted less travel than it's at now before something happens.

Lots of offerings for a wire fix to override the start stop function. I bought this for my car: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003162150780.html (I own a different car so I'm not implying this will work for your specific car. It's just an example. You need to do your own research to find the model specific wire for your own car) It's a quick plug 'n play solution that removed a daily annoyance for me. I do not own any diagnostic tools so at least for me it was worth a few pennies. PS: Yes I know this won't solve the kangaroo part of the equation. I only added it because it at least will remove one annoyance and keep the engine running always which should be default anyhow.

I ended up fetching a mirror from the same car (2015-2016 Scout) and paid 110 euro for it. I could also drive to this place and at least have the option to turn it down on the spot if something was off. By the looks of that car I almost wish I needed more parts lol. Glad used parts is an option even though it comes without any warranty.

Uhm... What's the purpose of that?

I have a none working fog light on the rear right tail light. I've got 4 bulbs that all are working on the left side, so it's not the bulb(s). Are there anything special about these sockets and/or which H21W/BAY9s socket can I replace it with? PS: I cannot see anything regarding wires or connectors that look blatantly wrong, but as I have not tested them I cannot say for sure. I thought it would not hurt to just find a new socket and try to swop it out and see where that leaves me.

0.41L per 1000km is that consumption and it is within spec. My 2016 Scout uses 0.25L per 1000km and I add 0.8L of oil each time the low oil indication comes on(yes I measure the level before, during and after) I just like to have the longest time before I have to do it again

After a bit of thinkering and searching for solutions, I've figured the best and cheapest solution is to purchase a complete mirror from a scrap yard because even if I search for just the mirrorglass used on ebay it's just still overpriced. I figured that other plastic bits 'n bobs might become brittle so always good to have some spareparts at bay, and I see lots of clean complete units where all have heated auto dim function and electric adjustable etc. Most of them are about 80 euro which is at least a lot easier to accept given I also get some extra spareparts. No way I'm paying 210 euro just for glass Here's one example that cost 80 euros(I do not care about the color of the top cover being wrong for my car).

Steering wheel on left side. Driving on right hand side of the road. I just feel the need for some advice before I continue because if I really have to cough up that much for something silly like this, I'd like for it to at least only be the glass that is broken. The right hand side is in very good condition, so I'd like to be able to continue to use that. I'm in the process of swopping the crap original blinkers in the mirrors for some better one's and I never expected this to end up costing an arm and a leg... Here's the tools and method I tried, and I see the other videos on youtube show the exact same approach which makes me hesitant given you do have to apply quite some pressure on it and all I can think of is that means these mirrors can snap quite easily. https://youtu.be/2wAkwRPUGdg?si=gJTyEbSQVWCdHdPJ&t=183

As it stands my glass must either be the C or D version, but I do not know what (AGCC) means. No matter, these versions are just crazy expensive on the normal places I shop in my country online where I see easy 210 euro per glass, which is just absurd in my mind. That's why I need to ask of some advice on dismounting mirror glass as mine snapped in half like nothing. I see videos of this online where they use more force than I did, and I use the same method and everything, but still it snapped way before I even thought it would release. It's an 8 year old car which is standing outside in -30C in the winter and everythin in between, so I just thought it must have become brittle. Then how the hell do you dismount them without any breakage? As these glass are so expensive I do not want to crack anything more so are there any way I may be able to remove the right glass without that just cracking in half as the other one or is this just what I have to deal with if I want to take a part the mirror to swop out the turn signals?

Which various websites specifically are you talking about? Most I find do not offer to search by vin, nor any parts diagrams. I found this: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/ There you need to pay to search by vin, but I do not know if that site will reveal the extra info I need to specify which codes apply to my specific VIN. I also found a similar page that have the same images and so on, so it would be good to know which is "the one" before I pay anything.

I just wanted to add the parts catalogue I used where I also have used my VIN number. There's 8 variations of mirror glass, where there are 4 left and 4 right one's. I do not know what the differences are between the variations, so how do you figure that part out?

I've ordered two 3rd party mirror glasses because I've broken one of them as you see in one of the images. When I unboxed them today I see the new one's are different than the one's installed on my car, so I do not feel like mounting them. Are my original glass with an anti blinding function and the new one's without, or what is that inner material doing that isn't present on the new one's? How do I make sure I get the correct one's using 3rd party options?

You'd have to ask the person who did the video. I have not done this myself, so it's just something I might consider.

Budget option for carplay...

Ah ok, I thought it was standard. Here's a picture of my car, and is why I was skeptic as you see the placement of that sensor. I've also thought that it must be better to have a LED-bar mounted higher up to reduce snow build up, and I also see some have a heated element as well. Your mod looks good though, so hopefully it will do you wonders for years to come. PS: I'm actually in the process of upgrading all lights to brighter LED lights all around, and in that process I dismounted the front fairing to pop out the headlights in the morning so I can cut out the holes for the turn signals that are not precut from factory on these cars(at least on the bi-xenon headlights). I have to change a ballast in the same go which meant I had to remove the fairing no matter, so I thought I'd just do the turn signal shenanigans while I have full access. This way I can remove those bulbs with ease in the future.

Does the ACC sensor still work when you've blocked it off like that? I ask because I have a Scout myself and will be getting a LED bar at some point myself, but I've been skeptical about placement regarding that sensor.

Hmm, that makes me think that might be the reason why I only got 2 holes on the rear of my headlight unit from factory and that I have to cut holes to change the turn signal bulbs as well as ordering 2 plastic covers with screws to seal it up again. Maybe they just said F this, we're soon updating the unit, so why care about the one's who actually have turn signal bulbs inside... Anyhow, I also need to remove the front to get access to it all so I can just change a couple light bulbs. Pretty terrible solutions here. Thankfully I need to change a balast in the same go, but hopefully I can change turn signal bulbs in the future by just opening the hood...

Not my MK3. It's a Scout, but still an Octavia mk3. I have a separate blinker bulb in the corners of my bi-xenon headlight units.

Newer Volvo's have that feature, but I think it's only at daytime if the driver uses auto lights, so only the leds are active. During normal driving they are white, and if the driver apply turn signal, the white changes to blinking orange which means that's all you see from the complete headlight unit.

I have also ordered LED Switchback bulbs(both white and yellow in same bulbs), but it seems like you most often need a ballast with those. I also suspect them to be a bit weaker in brightness than the other bulbs I've bought, so not really sure if I want to run with them instead. If I need some diagnostic tool, it might be best for now to do it together with a service at a workshop.