OccyVRS

Here we go again... When buying a used car I change the tyres immediately, however this is generally due to them being main dealer cars with very new but rubbish/unmatched tyres on them. If they were good condition, high quality tyres I'd probably run them for a bit, but if there was anything suspect with them I'd change them. I also check the alloys for any obvious repairs, etc, however as @chills says, if the car is in good condition then it is unlikely to have any real issues as far as the wheels are concerned. That said, I haven't bought a car with more than 20k on it, so maybe if it's a bit older I would consider getting them checked. The issue with secondhand wheels is that someone is selling them for a reason. Maybe they're just surplus to requirements, maybe they upgraded or maybe there are other reasons - the point is, you don't know. As has been discussed on another post, second hand tyres aren't worth it. It takes a lot to buckle an OE wheel - it doesn't take a lot to mess with a tyre. That's not to mention that wheels are (generally) good for immense numbers of miles, heat cycles, etc. Tyres are not. I'm in the position that I can afford to buy quality brand new tyres for my car. If I wasn't able to afford them, as has been said on other posts, I would reconsider my ownership of the car. My road tax is very nearly the price of two decent tyres - how could I possibly justify the potential compromise on safety, for such a small price. TLDR - used wheels, within reason, are generally safe bets. OP will be getting them stripped/inspected which is even better. I personally wouldn't use second-hand wheels that I don't know the history of, but that's just me. There are so many people on this forum that rant on about used tyres. If they want to do that then that's fine - but why don't they also use part-worn windscreen wipers, part-knackered batteries and part-used engine oil. It is exactly the same principle. Sure, people have used part-worn tyres for years! People have also ridden mountain bikes for years without proper equipment - until one day you go into a tree and end up in a wheelchair. When I'm in the outside lane, doing exactly the speed limit, with the car full, my girlfriend next to me, in heavy rain at night, I take comfort knowing that my brand new Michelin PS5s will offer me the very best chance in stopping and resisting aquaplaning. If you want to mess around with part-worn tyres, then that's up to you. I'm the sort of person that puts a new purchase up on the ramp and spends several hours checks over the condition of everything, just to be sure. Every few weeks, I'll go around the car quickly and check that everything is as it should be, just to be sure. I carry a first aid kid, LED road flare and other safety items too in the boot, just to be sure. Driving is dangerous enough without having my car trying to kill me too.

You'll get to a solution, believe me. I remember my parents had endless issues with their A3 for several years (the horn, wipers, locking would randomly stop working) and the issue was eventually traced to an incorrectly coded in battery. I wouldn't go to anywhere other than a VAG specialist, whether it's for a new turbo or an oil change. Just because they know how to sort cars doesn't mean they care about sorting them. Do others a favour and please update this thread with an update or solution once you've been to see them! It's always nice to have a complete issue, for when people find this thread in fifteen years time.

Yes - a company like that is a good port of call. I think we/I thought you were on about a breaker up north with a few blurry photos on eBay. They're good for some things, but not wheels. Something like this is very smart - https://premiumwheels.de/en/17-Zoll-Felgen-original-VW-Tiguan-II-2-Galway-5NA601025AL-Al/171738500 I did also see 16 inch wheels for something Skoda SUV-y. It might just be something you have to wait a little bit for (drop them a line).

Personally I think it has absolutely nothing to do with your driving style. If the car was thirty years old then sure, but it's a 2020 with 23k on the clock - you have to try pretty hard to upset it. Certainly, I had a hire Golf for a month or so a few Xmas' ago and failed to do anything to it, despite trying my hardest. I see you're up near Birmingham - perhaps someone can suggest a reputable VAG specialist for you to go and see? I've found these that all seem to be worth their salt - https://www.centralaudivw.co.uk https://vagtechnic.uk http://www.autotechnikltd.co.uk Local garages are always a bit hit and miss. Certainly, being on my own at uni with several malfunctioning cars taught me how to find somewhere decent to get honest and decent help. What was it the SEAT Master Tech said to me after two hours of diagnostics? The knocking from the front was 'just wear and tear' on a 2018 car. What did the VAG specialist find? A rock, jammed in the subframe. There's a reason people on here call dealers 'stealers'.

There are two sides to the coin. What's better, banged up OE alloys, or a set of Romac wheels? I know what my money would be on. I personally wouldn't be keen on salvage/reclamation wheels as these can have issues that you can't see with the naked eye. It's not so much about obvious cracks and poor repairs as it is any micro-cracks or defects that have occurred as a result of the age. Lightly worn OE wheels are another story however - wheels that are a few years old with kerb marks are likely a decent bet. I personally wouldn't cheap out on wheels, but I'm also the kind of person to put on the best tyres possible and wait until the engine oil is hot before accelerating with any intent. Something like Bola are probably worth looking at, although as with all of these they'll need spigot rings and they aren't really the best. On my vRS I'd only run Revo or Racingline - something reliable with a 57.1mm CB from factory. That said, anything from TD, OZ, Rotiform, etc are fine too - I just have this thing against spigot rings. On a Karoq, I could probably be persuaded to stick on some options from Bola or the like, although this is assuming the car isn't towing anything, blah blah. There is a reason why OE wheels cost so much compared to aftermarket stuff. That said, 17 inch shouldn't be too bad. If you don't care about getting current Skoda wheels, you should be able to pick up some 17" SEAT wheels for a reasonable price.

You've got to start tagging me when you update a post! I keep missing things🤣 I would suggest the failure rate is simply due to the nature of the application - I would presume more people are putting more load through DQ381 boxes.

Only read the last few posts in this thread, so apologies if I've missed something. These codes - U01000, U112100 and U111200 - I assume they came back after being cleared? Was this all of the codes? These are ECM/PCM/Databus codes (Engine Control Module, Powertrain Control Module and the databus connection between such modules) so could very well have been stored, although I would hope both garages would clear this. Personally, I'd start trying to figure out why the EPC light is on. If there's an issue with something there, this could very easily cause the car to not give you the front assist. Certainly, I think the front assist being unavailable is a symptom of whatever else is going on, rather than being the cause. The misfiring could easily cause the EPC light, which could maybe cause the front assist issue, but a) if it was all cleared then it shouldn't come back and b) the EPC light/front assist doesn't explain the U fault codes. Did you get the battery tested? That's the only thing I can think of that would throw up this combination of faults, although usually there will be some sort of DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that mentions low voltage. What exactly did the garage and Skoda say about the misfire, etc?

Most VAG stuff is between ET45 and ET50 and will all be the same PCD, centre bore, etc. Just like on a recent post about part-worn tyres, there is a strong argument against used wheels. If they're in good condition then sure, get them checked and whack them on. If they're needed decent refurbishment then maybe think again - you've no idea their history.

The issue with the sealed for life boxes is that service kits exist! That's not to mention the change from mineral to synthetic. The dealer service advisors wouldn't know a service interval if it came and smacked them in the head. It's not their fault, but they are utterly useless. VW claim the service isn't needed as the oil isn't contaminated by anything. I've seen the oil on a DQ200 after it had just crossed about 105,000 miles. Trust me, it needed changing. BTW - if the DQ250 box wants changing at 40k, how come the DQ381 doesn't? I refuse to believe that the clutches or filters are somehow superior, not to mention I suspect most 381 boxes have a harder life than 250s. Let's not forget, good cars or not, this is the company that has paid out over 30 billion for cheating emissions tests. I'm not saying I don't trust them, but at the end of the day people will service their cars how they want to - be it early preventative, or the bare minimum.

Not limited per se - they run two (three now) different gearboxes with different ratios. In the shorter ratio version, it tops out at 155mph. I'm not sure about the longer one. This car excels at small, tight tracks. I'm not saying it was built for the FOS hill climb, but.... The SU7 is a stupidly fast bit of kit. The Ultra is the fastest four door car round the Ring, but that doesn't do it justice. Being on slicks aside, it's over a second faster than a Pagani Zonda R and 26 seconds faster than a GT3 RS MR. It'll do 0-60 in under 2 seconds. That's over half a second faster than the fastest car I've ever been in, and that was a horrendous experience. The only issue with electric cars is the longevity of the battery. By the time they've sorted that out, hydrogen will be here.

For VW in Europe/UK (so, Audi, VW, SEAT, Cupra, Skoda) the interval for the DQ381 is 80,000 miles, with the filter to be replaced every second service (aka 160,000 miles and 320,000 miles, should it make it there). Technically the filter is not a serviceable part, but the three dealers that I spoke to all said they do the filter at 80,000 miles regardless. Either way, my car is just about to cross 40k and I've got it booked in to have the oil and filter changed. This is purely preventative maintenance, for my own peace of mind, done with VW oil and filter. Sure, the FB and Millers kits are likely just as good, but if a job is worth doing... I'm personally a bit skeptical that every single other DSG box is 40,000 (wet or dry clutch, aside from the knackered for life) but yet the DQ381 is somehow 80,000. I drive mine quite hard, so doing it early won't hurt anything. Frankly, I'm more interested in the age rather than the mileage - 80k could be done in two years, but it could also take a decade or so. That's a long time for oil. Sources - three Skoda dealers (one SEAT/Cupra/Skoda), TVS Engineering and three independent VAG places.

Anyone? :(

If it does it when accelerating, then it would do it all the time (3000rpm in first at 14mph is the same as 3000rpm in 7th at 90mph). I agree with the above, easiest point to start is the wheels. It's not anything flywheel or gearbox related - that would be noticeable when pulling away (unless it's an issue with a specific higher gear). That said, I would get a professional to check it out. It could be a million things, from a bad CV to an unbalanced wheel, to a loose engine mount and everything in-between. Forums are good for specific, problematic issues - IMO this is just too much of a vague issue to try and remedy without an inspection.

I've sat in the Sperirling - what you can't appreciate on video is just how small the thing is! It basically has two fans that suck it into the ground, creating a sort of ground effect with about 2000kg of force from a standstill - that's why it's so fast. Not to mention it's over 1000bhp and weighs under 1000kg. That said, with full power, it won't last more than about 3 minutes.

I swapped cars with Hastings once - even having only passed three months previous, they didn't ask for anything. I also update my address and other details every year, without issue. This is a very common thing to catch people out (often young boy racers) that have plastered their car with wheels, a splitter, spolier, intake and all sorts of other things, that they haven't declared on their policy. In other words, it's them basically saying 'we don't trust you and we want to catch you out'. If it were me, I'd cancel the policy and tell them to swivel. Take a look at Admiral multi-cover. I'm paying a very good price for my vRS.

If it's a 2020 vRS then your only exhaust options will be a full system, which isn't cheap for a GFP car. First thing, get your DSG and VAQ serviced. Aside from sorting the intake (R600 in mine), for sound - Turbo muffler delete/diverter valve Downpipe/res delete/muffler delete (just do the whole exhaust, GPF systems don't respond well to being cut up and welded) In general - ECU/TCU tune (please get a custom job, or at least a tuneable flash map with dyno runs and a road test) Mounts/bushes/dogbone insert/etc ARB's Uprated coils/plugs Pedal box (pedal commander, burger, etc) Stickier tyres (PS5 are all you really need) Catch can Lowering springs Grabbier pads/discs/braided lines If you want to take it further - Intercooler/larger turbo combo (with the aux/DSG coolers too) Coilovers Top mounts (depending on if coilovers have camber plates) Camber arms/toe arms/etc (Hardrace) Wheels (8.5J allowing for some 245 rubber) Rigid subframe kit Fancy BBK (Revo Alcon, Racingline, AP, Brembo, YSR, APR, VBT) 5F Cupra 300 ST/B9 S4 Aside from a standing start, my vRS has no real issues putting down the power from 2nd gear and up - the diff helps hugely. You should be able to hit 330bhp without doing anything major like turbo/intercooler/etc. You may be happy with how the car handles now, however once you've added another 100bhp, you may think otherwise. FYI the standard brakes work really well up to about 400bhp. I run full OE, with DS2500 on the fronts. You do not need anything other that plain discs - they are pointless! Next on my list is/was the exhaust and a Wagner intercooler (310/350bhp switchable, rarely used the higher power). If you're into some more vRS power, care to join us?

There may be something useful in here or here. Not too sure about this supposed update. @TheDaneWithSuperb was active a week or so ago, so hopefully they found a solution?

IMO it looks far too copper-y to be anything else - oxidisation from the liner, blah blah, would at the best bet be dark brown, whereas that stuff looks metallic orange. Whether or not that’s indicative of your problem, or is a separate issue, is another story however!

I'd put money on it being some sort of coolant additive (K-Seal). It could be rust from somewhere in the system, but given there's apparently issues with the heater matrix my guess is that. 'Permanently seals leaks in the head, head gasket, block, radiator, heater matrix and water pump.'

Something @varaderoguy might be able to point you in the right direction with.

Not a clue - I haven't touched head units yet. Best bet is to wait for someone else to come along, or see if @Dean can move this post into the correct section. A lot of people don't check here - perhaps @Ootohere might be able to suggest some names to tag.

Very nice choice, but please be sensible with it! For a new driver, that's a very powerful car and you don't want to end your driving career before it begins - any smash in the next few years will make insuring a pushbike impossible. Insurance will likely be eye-watering, but it's eye watering for most people these days. Admiral multicover is likely your best bet. To be honest, I'm surprised you've even got a quote, fair play! Take a look here - be great to have you.

Welcome! You'll likely get a better response in the Octavia Mk3 forum here. In answer to your question - that part number is for an MIB2 unit, so yes, you'll have wired CarPlay/Android Auto via the USB-A port in the center console.

Agree with @Carlston You're maybe thinking of the common Mk3/3.5 move from 225/40R18 to 235/35R19 - in which case, yes, a drop in profile is needed. In order to drop down to a 35 profile, you'd want to be moving to a 255 or even 265 section. Similarly, to go up to a 45 profile, you'd be wanting a 200 tyre - it's quite a big difference! 235 is the maximum tyre that can fit on a 7.5J rim. It is recommended to have a 215/225. You don't want to be doing maximums or minimums for anything tyre related. On a 7.5J, a 205 will be stretched which will cause issues. 235 on a 7.5J is approaching instability territory IMO - the sidewall of the tyre is having to do more work. For a 235/245 section tyre, you're better off with an 8.5" wheel IMO. Some cars (Karoq, etc) have 19x8" wheels, but AFAIK the Octavia is a 19x7.5". Lot's of people put 235s on a 7.5J wheel - be it on a Cupra, GTI, R, S3 or whatever, but that doesn't mean it's right. There's a reason VW ships the cars with 225. You won't notice the difference going from 225 to 235. Go from 225 on a 7.5J to 245 on an 8.5J and yes, there'll be a change - and not always a good one. TLDR - absolutely increase tyre width if you want better grip, but you'll need to increase the wheel width to suit. @OP I would stick with 225/40R19. You aren't going to get anything that offers any benefit - stick some nice PS5s on it instead.

Has anyone come up with a clever way to route the CarPlay/Android Auto cable from the USB port into the glove box? I don't want a wireless dongle, and I like having the phone in the glove box a) out of the way b) charging and c) cooled. Currently, I've just stuffed it into the trim by the passengers knee and up into the back of the glove box. In my previous Leon, I punched a hole in the rubber cubby base and was able to route the cable internally. In the Octavia I don't think this is possible as there's a proper cubby there, with a solid base - I don't want to be drilling things. Not to mention I wouldn't be able to fully close the sliding lid, which would drive me mad. Pics attached are the current setup in the Octavia, versus the job in the Leon. They both come into the back of the glove box the same way, but having that cable there looks ugly and my girlfriend is forever catching her bag on it - it's about time I sorted it!