OccyVRS

Wants a vRS then - stiffer springs to negate the weight in the back. The other difference is that, in terms of airports and suitcases, having the estate gives you a higher load space to stack bags. It’s the one thing for mine - I don’t care, but the last two foot of boot isn’t that high.

I don’t know how I missed that, apologies! I had it set to “estate” on AutoTrader, so I didn’t check. Mind you though, the hatch is no cheaper so the comparison still stands. @travs I bought a vRS hatch after finding out it really was a hatch! The only reason I can see for getting the estate is adults in the back (barely any difference IIRC) and roof rails. I’m a mountain biker so sometimes regret not getting a car with rails, but aside from that the hatch is as practical as the estate.

You’re in the UK aren’t you? We aren’t in the EU anymore! By few miles I assume because it’s a special car, etc, rather than being driven around town only? EBC BrakesECE Regulation 90 – What’s it All About?New titanium shims are a must-have for high-performance braking.

Welcome! This might be of interest to you - a fair few of us local to you.

Completely, but as I was attempting to say a few posts ago, I would hope that most people would consider what the police say is safest. Interesting you mention about puncture repairs - as long as it is a decent quality permanent repair, then it is just as strong as the rest of the tyre. Certainly, this has nothing to do with remaining tread depth, internal soundness (within reason), or any of the issues you might find in a part-worn. What about the third option to your question, buying a new part-worn tyre? The possibilities are endless, but I know what I would recommend to any member of the public!

I thought the international language of love was USD🤣

I assume you're on about this one here? For £1,000 less there is this one (although no details yet) 20,000 miles fresher, or for the same miles this one for £2,500 less. At 80k you ideally want the Haldex/DSG service info. That being said, I would assume virtually every VAG independent that would do a DSG/4x4 service would have updated the service records digitally... is there nothing there?

Interesting they don't say the gauze needs doing on the pump - everywhere I've spoken to regarding my diff service has listed that right underneath changing the oil. Sounds like its the same as the DSG filter then...

For someone (you) that joined the forum when I (Occy) was six years old, I (Occy) rather hoped for something more constructive (from you). I apologise - I see your location now. I should have been less eloquent and more straightforward in my humour.

I meant more in terms of being on the force - although I have also done a fair bit of racing. I'm not beholden to a brand at all - nothing wrong with budget tyres (I run Rainsport 5s on another car and have for several years). My issue is with the 'gamble' of part-worn tyres, as OP commented on with those Michelins. I fear I'm repeating myself. TLDR - speaking from my experience and position, I do not think part-worn tyres are worth the potential gamble, and therefore could not recommend them to anyone on a public form.

@J.R. if you read it again, with your glasses on, you might find that I was referring to you, rather than me. @Ootohere My mistake - I was simply trying to figure out if OP going down the previous service history (re intervals) was worth it or not. From what you're saying, it isn't and the only thing that really matters, history wise, is if Skoda serviced the diff at POS 18 months ago.

But you joined the forum in 2007, so that doesn't make sense...? I don't think even you know what you are talking about - hijacking yet another thread with your hypocrisy and repeating the same question for a third time!

Although this extended warranty is only the 12 month approved used warranty (which OP is out of)?

If you'd read my post carefully, you might realise I'm speaking from such a position... I'm very happy being judgemental, when I am in a position to do so. I'd love to know your vast knowledge of this topic, beyond your own limited experience, because of course you know significantly more than I do about it! It's not as though I've any first hand experience, training or otherwise.

And this is funny because...? I know this is the internet, but for someone that joined this forum when I was six years old, I rather hoped for something more constructive!

Can't help with specific part numbers, but the DS2500 pads on my vRS have been the best pads I've used out of EBC, Pagid and OE. I haven't tried Mintex - they're next.

The first thing I would say is not to worry - there will be a solution! You aren't the first to go through something like this, and you won't be the last. I haven't dealt with this exact scenario, but I have dealt with a main dealer selling me a crash damaged car. Out of interest, which Skoda is this? I see you're West Sussex - not too far from the lot that sold me that car. As above, there will be digital service records. Any independent can also access these records. IIRC the 4x4 Haldex system is the same as the LSD in vRS cars - the service interval called for is 20,000 miles. Someone else will know for sure, but I think I'm correct in saying that all Skoda parts come with a 2 year warranty. Of course, a service isn't exactly a part, but I think there would be an argument that if the diff was inspected and serviced before sale (it should have been), then it blowing up now some 8,000 miles before the service interval isn't anything to do with you. The first thing you need to do is access this service history. If the correct intervals were not adhered to, at any point in the vehicles life, then I believe you have a case against the dealer. If the intervals were stuck to, and it was serviced before you bought the car, then I still think you have an argument. Of course, it's not black and white. Simply put, you are outside of the used warranty period by 8 months. In theory, the dealership can tell you where to go (and it sounds like they have). I'd covered 25,000 miles in the 28 months I owned my car. I was prepared to do all sorts (I still did, after I'd picked up my vRS and made them return it to factory condition), but I only had to suggest going down that route and suddenly they were on the same page as I was. Okay, in my case the sales guy was absolutely fantastic (I still owe him), but my point is that dealerships have insurance for this sort of thing. I know for a fact my car was sold for 50p at auction (and appeared at a used dealer in West Sussex for £11,500 six months later, with no repair done). First step is the service history, and report back here. Depending on what it says, there are various routes to go down (from Skoda UK, independent reports, motor ombudsman or even legal paths). It's maybe not going to be the easiest process in the world, but I honestly believe you will be able to get a satisfactory solution here.

Do you mean the silver coloured strip (with the led lighting strip)? If so, this is a plastiwelded piece (been there, done that, thanks dealer for scratching mine). The only removable bits on the door card are the switches, switch cover thingy on the passenger side, and the outside of the grab handle. Everything is else is part of the door card. What @varaderoguy is suggesting is to remove the entire card (it's a couple of fixings) and see if it's anything behind there. It could be the lighting strip is a bit loose, etc. It's not difficult to do, however if it's your first time then I would exercise some caution - they come off much easier than they go back on!

For what it's worth, I had this issue on a 2013 Focus. Okay, I had the key, but it was almost completely rounded out. I managed to get one nut off before it failed, and took it down to the local (large) Ford dealer, who quickly confirmed there were hundreds of patterns and that they could order one in a month or two. Quick pit stop to ECP on the way home, one blank socket and a mallet later, and I had the remaining three nuts off in about 25 seconds each. Nobody steals wheels anymore. When did you last see a car on bricks? All locking wheel bolts do is cause issues for you, the owner of the car. I'm not saying I'd get rid of the ones on my vRS, but if there was an issue with them, I wouldn't hesitate to pull them off. I'm not sure how VAG works, but as suggested I would try and get some help from a supplier - it doesn't hurt to ask. Failing that, it's definitely not a £500 job to remove them, unless your wheels are special (they do look quite deep, to be fair).

Completely true, and perhaps speaks to the attitudes of some (such as those willing to fit discs from a breakers yard). Maybe it's something they choose to do, however I definitely don't feel the same. As with everything, it depends where you get part-worn tyres from. Certainly, in my experience, the only part-worn tyre places I've seen aren't exactly main dealer certified. I stand by everything I said - if you MOT/tax/insure/service/fuel a car, then there is no excuse to be fitting sub standard tyres. On a soaking wet, pitch black motorway, it is far better to know your life is riding on quality, good condition rubber, than anything else. Having been on a response shift a few months ago and seen what was left of someone at an RTC after a heavily-worn tyre failed and put him into a motorway barrier at 80mph, I couldn't possibly accept the idea of part-worn tyres, or an other safety equipment. As I said before, if I had my way, I'd ban part-worn tyres, except for those that are somehow certified/approved and guaranteed to be sound. There is no argument in which financial or environmental factors justify an increase to the risk of a fatality. For those that still argue otherwise please, come on a shift and see firsthand for yourself. After a few days with the RPU I guarantee you'll change your tune. As @Ootohere says, time has moved on. Cheap tyres are cheaper, cars are heavier, speeds are higher and maintenance is often worse. Don't risk it. On a happier note - while at uni a few years ago, I worked part time with a detailer. We mainly did supercars, with the likes of Lambo/Ferrari/Porsche/McLaren/etc being commonplace. Most of the cars had £500 a pop Michelin Cup 2 or whatever on them, but there was this one guy (crypto millionaire, no clue about cars aside from their status, really) that would run the cheapest tyres possible. I'll never forget seeing a 325/35R22 unknown brand on a £500,000 Mansory Urus... the mind boggles. Mind you, this was the guy that would floor his brand new Purosangue (one of the first in the UK) in December, on a cold start, after just turning it on. He put it into a wall a few months later - something about the tyres on a RWD-bias 700bhp V12 not being warm. Says all you need to know, really.

And I think that there is the difference. Years ago you were far less likely to pick up a “bad tyre” - times have changed, and in the automotive world people are far more exploitative. That’s not to mention cars are heavier. You’re all entitled to your opinion - that’s the joy of the internet. There have been disagreements before and there will be disagreements again. Certainly, you all seem to have missed my point. I am not saying part-worn tyres are bad. Indeed, there’s nothing wrong with them! I am saying that due to so many factors, there is a much higher chance of you picking up tyres that are in some way defective or compromised. Of course, the front tyres from a brand new rear-ended car are fine - but how do you know they’re from that and not sat in someone’s shed for 15 years? Maybe I’m more fortunate than some of you. Given the multitude of expenses that cars require, I just don’t think the benefit of saving £50 outweighs the potential risk. OP - sounds like you understand my point. Uniroyal are perfectly suitable tyres (owned by Michelin). Apologies for hijacking your thread.

My tyres haven't been subject to abuse, mistreatment, long periods of sitting, chemicals, damage or whatever else happens to some part-worn tyres. By their very nature, they are safety critical items that are consumable/perishable - buying them without any knowledge of their history and condition (beyond what you can see) is not a sensible idea. As per my previous comment, do you buy part-worn brake discs, pads, clutches, spark plug or other such consumable items? You yourself are driving with part-worn components, so why not go to a breakers yard the next time your Yeti needs discs? If you phoned up a dealership and asked for a part-service, you know what the answer would be. In the day of easy credit (although that has ended now), there is no excuse for not being able to "afford" new tyres, if you can afford an MOT, tax, insurance, service, fuel and whatever else needed to run a car. As before, tyres are a safety critical item that, if fail, can impact others beyond yourself. This is of course not to mention the elephant in the room - these part-worn tyres, where do they come from? From other people's cars, yes? So why did they change them... It goes back to a previous comment - just because a tyre is legal, does not mean it is safe. The only reason for part worn tyres to exist, is retread examples for use on commercial vehicles, that have a far thicker tread/carcass than passenger car tyres.

Squealing is the result of contamination, or a knackered braking system (glazed, worn, etc). Grinding is the result of, well, something grinding! As other have said, dust shield could be the culprit. Although, given you've already had issues with that caliper, it could also likely be a stuck piston or that the caliper needs some lubrication! BTW - hooked/grooved discs are a waste of time. Outgassing is not an issue anymore, and all grooves/holes do is create weak spots and actually reduce braking contact area. Race cars use drilled/hooked and grooved pads for heat dissipation and to brake more efficiently by 'cleaning' the pads. The grooves on the disc eat the pads whenever you brake, and this might actually be the cause of the grinding (yes I know yours are hooked, however it's the same principle).

Driving my car back to the dealer for a return with £20 part-worn Linglong's was an eye-opening experience. I don't think I crossed 55mph the entire time, and driving through the soaking wet countryside (thanks M25 closure) was actually quite unpleasant. Without wishing to come across poorly - if you can't afford new tyres, I don't think you can afford to run a/the car. They are a safety critical item and if a part-worn tyre fails, it is not just your own life that you are putting at risk. I look at it this way - you don't buy part-worn clutches, wipers or brakes, do you? Part-worn tyres often have "lots of life left in them", but so do part-worn brake discs, pads and every other consumable on a car. Ultimately, you might find some part-worn tyres that are in great condition! I have personally sold a couple surplus tyres that had nothing wrong with them - but, you might not be so lucky. Those four tyres are the one thing between you and the road. You don't see part-used parachutes, lifeboats or helmets! Do you really want to gamble your life by saving £40 per corner? I know I don't.

In theory the ABS/TPMS systems would be fine, but you might have some issues with TC and wheel speed sensors. I'm not sure exactly, but 245 you might be into arch-rub territory. Similarly, 245 all round might be okay, but unless you can be sure of telling the car about it, I'd be wary of introducing a staggered setup - especially one that's larger on the rear. The largest tyres you can really do are 255/265, and these are on MQB track cars with modified suspension. I mentioned this recently on another post. Skoda will have done type ratings on the Octavia with tyres from 185/60R15 (or whatever the smallest size is) right up to 225/35R19. You will probably have no issues going to 235 (lot's of people do it), but you would still need to inform insurance. Going up to 245 and above is a different story.