OccyVRS

Zero relation between the headlight level sensor and ride height. DCC only adjusts the shocks - nothing to do with the springs or ride height. Most likely a knackered spring, although potentially a collapsed top mount and suspension issues (LCA and strut come to mind).

+1 Kopacek.

First mistake was going to Halfords. Take it somewhere else and get the new battery checked, and then coded in correctly. My parents had similar symptoms in their A3 - random no locking, horn, etc. It turned out that Halfords had somehow managed to incorrectly code the battery in.

Revo have 40% off currently - not sure if that's applicable in Egypt.

It’s the standard VAG 340mm pad, unless it’s a TDI.

I see you haven’t mentioned it, but you can get 75kg onto the roof rack, including the rack system itself. Roof bars are rated around 100kg and a Thule UpRide can do 20kg. It is quite close to the limit, but provided you can lift it up there, it’s definitely possible. I’ve had six downhill bikes on the roof of a 5 series.

I’ve no idea how I’ve never noticed this before! It’s a black sticker covering a hole in the c-pillar door shut. It’s on the drivers side (UK) but not on the other. Any ideas? Assembly hole? Cavity wax? PDR?

So they do - I've just spoken to some people and yep, rear diff on the 8V S3 and Mk7 R. Bugger. Makes me want a Cupra 300 ST even more.

My understanding is that the previous generations of cars (8Y S3, RS3, Mk8 R, etc) simply use Haldex - made by Borg Warner. The newer generation cars, IIRC, do away with this and instead use a “torque splitter”. It’s still made by BW, but once the power is sent to the back, uses clutch packs to split the power between the rear wheels. They don’t market it as Haldex, but it’s essentially the same system, with a VAQ differential at the back. I’m not sure what cars have it - I know the R, S3 and RS3 do.

Cupra R ST > Cupra 300 ST > Golf R Estate Bikes are a different ball game. Fastest I've been on is an MV Dragster RR, and that was utter insanity. Someone I know rides an M1000RR... on the road... I would say the feel of a car is far more important. The Octavia vRS is a reasonably soggy car - especially compared to something like an i30N or GTI CS. Even the normal GTI feels tighter at the back, and more composed. That said, the Octavia doesn't feel wayward or unstable, and the Golf is by no means uncomfortable on long journeys like the i30N is. They're all the same, or similar, on paper - 250bhp to 300bhp DCT hot hatches, yet they couldn't feel more different. The vRS isn't perfect, but as someone that needs a car to sit happily for thirteen hours to Scotland, it's absolutely perfect for me - whether I'm doing that drive, or hooning around the mountains once there. Personally, I like that it's a bigger car, but still retains the chuckabilty of a hatchback. Something like an S4 or whatever, defintely feels bigger. Not slower, but you are aware of that extra weight.

If you’re attempting 0-100km/h times then you’ve bought the wrong car! Plus, I think @travs may disagree on the sporty part. Yes, but the lower dogbone mount does also ruin compliance and nothing you do will stop the wheel hop. I love my car, but standing starts are never good. I think mine would be dropped by my mates R32, and that’s 100bhp down and 20 years older. I don’t think the standard vRS really has enough power for an AWD system to make a difference - standing start aside. The FWD is more engaging, and results in less drivetrain loss. I’ve had mine up against a mate’s A45s and, to be fair, wasn’t instantly dropped - which is very impressive.

They did - it's called the Superb 280. If you want and AWD vRS, it's called a Golf R Estate/Cupra ST. The LSD makes my car handle far better than it has any business to. Is it a GTI TCR? No, but for a FWD MQB saloon, it does a very good job of pretending to be a hot hatch. That being said, it's not magic - I've yet to launch my car with any success, 245ps or 350ps. Frankly, below 30mph it does struggle a bit - but that's just FWD or RWD in a nutshell.

No, it is absolutely worth doing. To cut a long story short, I currently only run a TCU tune on my car and, honestly, it's absolutely fine. I must get up to Ecotune sometime soon... Where the wool may be pulled over your eyes is for the supporting mods. For a simple remap, there is no hardware required. Many people will do an air intake and whatever else, but the truth is - there's no point. The only restrictive part of the intake (not at Stage 1) is the elbow, and that can be sorted for £100. I have an R600, but anyway. Ditto with the brakes - the stock system works very well up to 400bhp. You can't increase stopping power with 340mm discs on 225mm tyres.

Honestly? A replacement is likely the only option. Rubber is very finicky and difficult to work with - you have to be very careful. It doesn't look like UV damage to me.. I think something has dried on there, or has been too strong (TFR is a common cause of this) and burnt into the rubber. You can't polish rubber. If it were me, I would try some IPA on it, followed by some trim restorer, and hope for the best. A dedicated rubber cleaner, like that for tyres, won't work in this case. Similarly, no amount of cleaning (with water spot remover, panel wipe, etc) will get that off.

While you don’t technically “need” to get the TCU done along with the ECU, it makes sense to do so. This is from both a standpoint of completing the package, so to speak, in addition to increasing the clamping force of the clutch pack to cope with the increased torque. A custom tune is best for the engine - Ecotune, R-Tech, QST, Unicorn are some good examples. As for the gearbox, you’ll want to get a TVS map put on there - simple as. Getting the ECU mapped and not the TCU is sort of like going to the gym and only working your upper body. Sure, it’ll look good and be a change, but it’ll be unbalanced - you want to do the lower body to really get the most out of it.

You need to tell the car if you are changing the battery, even if it is the exact same thing.

Then you can’t active ACC.

They didn’t notice my car was crash damaged 😂 Don’t trust a main dealer as far as you can throw them.

Oh I thought you were on about enabling TSR, which is a bit more straightforward. You’ll need the ACC controls too.

@Cairus It was a while ago. I remember we did stuff with the front camera module, instrument cluster and infotainment.

I do? I didn’t think their car ran RoadRage software though… TVS are a little more considered with their clamping pressures - any idiot can stick 20 bar onto the clutch pack and see how long they take to disintegrate. I agree with the above, however I would also add that it depends how you drive it. If you’ve got some random Superb with a BONOSS wheel retention method, and only floor it in a straight line once a week, then you’ll be absolutely fine with a flash map. If you’re sending the engine to the moon on a daily basis then I would try to get the best you can get, with a custom tune. For Stage 1, really, it’s not massively important. It’s only when you start getting to Stage 2 and above that the tune really matters. You could go for Revo, Racingline, APR, Cobb, IE or anything and be absolutely fine, I think. Frankly, if I was sending my car I’d want to invest in a DSG cooler, larger intercooler and some other bits, starting with a RARB and ending with stiffer springs.

EA888.3 2020 vRS here. I would go for a TVS TCU tune and then, personally, a custom tune for the ECU. Offerings from APR, Racingline, Revo, etc are very good, but they just can't match the work of a tune that is developed and customised for your specific engine. I'm not too sure who is available in Eygpt, so it may be that the safest bet is to use one of the former 'flash maps'. Of the two, I would probably go for Racingline - they tend to be a bit more conservative than Revo (from what I know, anyway). Something that I am keeping an eye on... https://roadrageperformance.co.uk/vag-vaq-fwd-tuning/

Yeah... that's not a 'known' or 'common' issue - that's more of a 'this is a dangerous issue, get to the bottom of it immediately' rather than seven months down the line. You can fit all manner of springs, coilovers and the like, and absolutely none will cause the car to lurch to one side. An instability is a problem, but an imbalanced instability points to something that is pretty wrong. Does the car sit evenly - are the springs seated properly? Are the top mounts done correctly? Are the drop links fitted properly, with no play? Are the ARB bushes all good - no twisting or deformation as a result of incorrect install? Something is not right on that side.

If that's a vRS then it's very impressive 😂 The 2.0 TDI claims something like 70mpg, with the 1.6 seeing upwards of 80, apparently.

That sounds like a plan. As long as you are careful with WOT, I would try a few things, speak to a few people and get some more logs before throwing money at it. These sorts of problems can have strange causes, and there's no point replacing the LPFP and other parts if a sensor, or sender, is bad.