KiNeL

Others may know better but I think you can more or less guarantee it won't be plug-n-play. If lucky there will only be some coding to do which OBD11 may handle but in the worst case you could be looking at a replacement clock spring assembly plus coding with VCDS. What is the reason for the swap?

I think the "No comms with all four door modules." may have been a clue that it wasn't a door harness.

What's with that 'Eco' middle group, it's not on my decal?

This is the label from my 1.2 petrol.

Here perhaps? https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w211/734301-fuel-not-being-used-one-saddle.html Plenty of info on the topic of saddle tanks if you ask Google. https://letmegooglethat.com/?q=How+does+a+saddle+type+fuel+tank+work

I had a similar problem on my old Mk IV Golf which was basically the same underpinnings as the MK1 Octy, I must have pumped a litres or more through but still no pedal. I took it to a friend who specialised in VW (very nearby thankfully as I was driving with no brakes!) and he told me that he had had to turn off the ABS to do the job!

Probably the same sort of person who so overtightens an oil filter that you have to virtually destroy it to get it off. My rule of thumb which had served me through countless filter changes on innumerable vehicles: If you need any sort of tool to take a filter off that means it was overtightened when it was fitted!

Difficult to strip a thread when removing, far more likely it was damaged by someone who had it out in the past cross threading on the way back in. £820 for a sump is pi55 take surely! Steel or alloy can't see why an in situ Helicoil repair wouldn't work, certainly worth a look as it would cost very little.

Here you go. No need at all to fully dismantle the unit as shown in video 2 & 3 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzVYML-ybg0

These post make me so very glad that in the warm and dry climate of Spain (which means ZERO corrosion) then barring a major accident or other total catastrophe for me the question of what to replace my Yeti with simply does not arise. Even if it did there are plenty of similar excellent condition cars available on the market here so it could readily be replaced if it came to it. With 130k km (80k miles) on the clock, and nowadays only clocking up around 10k km pa (6k miles), there is no reason to not expect it to go on for another 13 years which, with me currently at at age 74 and 'er indoors not far behind, could mean us reaching the end of our driving careers before the car reaches the end of it's useful life! The simplicity of the base 'Active' variant makes problems with complex, and frequently worthless, features and accessories something else not to worry about.

Not that I need them but this prompted me to look up the price of replacements for my pre facelift, cheapest here in Spain is €101 so not too bad. Don't fancy the job of bumper removal.

I agree completely, perhaps the OP is afraid of fitting springs the new struts.

Some Golf struts may be interchangeable but I'd expect the spring rates to be different so would need swapping. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/267104951487?_skw=Skoda+Yeti&itmmeta=01JGXZWFSA59AFZAJ33C38SH13&hash=item3e30b21cbf%3Ag%3AbywAAOSwS-ZgbdCF&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8Mxmj%2BiGvOveHXEBClPb29jUsSEMRcz1DfpqM9XvkWs4JePjnHaHdSyWohE1Ote0uMmbLPm1x4zxdeEZ8BI28JHlo2PEyXBFvqbe9ur9zZxWkGxV1AhzPfjs3SBn2qa0z5G%2FM1S8CRyavXvwKPYw%2Fj%2B7JnxzPCVlWpqMKF8iStTuXp65rUtlvjWxmbin4TAv3NuqowK0hg8pwvE8fjIDSGYAxvQzzUYxKjnQpt9%2BTs1vEiF78gFivEdhUJQGFb1eykbZXmVkIZqzCX0wyrNXjhysNYpuEqBe8mL98IOuI625GXGZAtPve3dotGLzvM7VIA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR9788b-HZQ&fits=ake%3ASkoda|odel%3AYeti Scroll down for compatibility info.

Sounds like the DMF but 60k, or even 70k for that matter, is pretty low mileage. I've run, and abused, cars up to 4x that and never had a clutch problem with any. She's not a clutch rider is she?

Exactly. Arguably under the bonnet subject to the heat cycles of an engine is the least desirable location for a car battery! Heat can cause deterioration in performance which goes largely unnoticed in warmer weather but bites you in the bum at the first cold snap, we've all been there! Personally I'd have stuck with a standard size battery and cover but hey ho.

Mine went a couple of days ago and not willing to simply fork out £££ for a new unit, which would also have needed coding in, and baulking at the £60+ most are asking just for a replacement ribbon cable, I checked out some Youtube videos on repairing it and decided it was no big deal so with nothing to lose I dived in. The hardest bit turned out to be scraping clean the fresh end of the cable in preparation for soldering but it only took patience a light touch with a new Stanley knife blade. Unlike any of the videos I watched I replaced the little white bridge piece, Start to finish the job took about 2.5 hours. I can post some links to relevant videos if anyone want's them.

My money is on a linkage issue, Personally I've not heard that the 6sp manual is prone to premature failure plus gearbox faults do not generally manifest themselves in the manner described, they tend to break and stay broken! If it helps at all this is a photo of the linkages on my car, in neutral of course.

So glad I switched back to petrol power Mind you no GDI car is going to be too happy with 1 mile trips either

I'd be more concerned about where the coolant was going. I not only endorse Warrior193's suggestion that if it says 'Mit Silicat' replace it but go further and say do it NOW.

On the topic of one eyed driving. I have a pal in UK who lost his left eye in an unprovoked attack in the street some years ago, his wife is deaf in her right ear which makes for perfect driving harmony as he can't see her and she can't hear him Variously he drives an XK Jag, a Bentley, and a Toyota Yaris, without issue. The worst aspect of the Yeti for me is the passenger side 3/4 vision, particularly when 'er indoors is occupying the seat, blacked out rear widows don't help. If I were more of a man I'd make her sit in the back!

You mean the Fiat 500L. Despite the dimensions to me it still looks subjectively smaller, particularly from the rear. Too 'girly' anyway, not that I'd ever seriously consider buying one! https://www.carsized.com/en/cars/compare/fiat-500l-2017-5-door-hatchback-crossover-vs-skoda-yeti-2009-suv/

For some of us there does seem to be something fundamentally wrong with a car called a Mini being wider and longer than a Yeti

First check for broken wires in loom where it passes from door to A pillar, classic fail point but not hard to repair at zero cost.

Can you clarify that? Are you saying that even with the ignition off every 4 mins or so when the noise occurs the instrument cluster display switches on and then after the noise switches off. Anything with the key out of the ignition? Also both the sound and level of your audio clip are very different to what we heard in the video where it was pronounced single beep so is it different when stationery to when actually driving? I think you need to do an OBD scan to see what, if any, errors you have. OBDeleven is pretty cheap and if you know where to find it subscription free software for your phone is available

There was no quote for comp and as I had no UK reg. number to enter I had to tick 'haven't bought car' then define the car, other than for make there were no other drop down choices.