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Posts posted by Lex Dysia
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This one purely because I've stood right next to it and had a good look round
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Strangely I would like one of these
and this as a weekend car
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Nice guide and pics but would it not have been better to have the oil breather lines going to the side of the cc so the clean air feeds from above.
If it filled up the fluid could get into the intake as it is imo.
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I'm gonna wait for the diesel version
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Auto gearboxes are overly complex pieces of crap. As soon as you get any sludge in the ATF the valve box starts to play up, and all hell breaks loose.
But is this true of DSG boxes as they aren't true autos.
They have got better over the years, but you still loose power through the torque converter, and get less MPG as a result.The benefits to me mainly driving in stop/start traffic outway this as my knees can't tolerate the pedal actions for too long. Auto box and cruise are essential on my next motor.
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Just trying to gauge opinions here as I am considering it in the future.
I have tried 2 diesel autos in the past, both fords and the experiences where very bad.
I have driven plenty of petrol autos and never had any issues with them but here is my experience of diesels.
First one I ever tried was an X plated Ford Galaxy 90 bhp TDI. Pulling away from junctions was suicidal it would start rolling and then crawl until it got suitable revs, if you could see traffic it just wasn't worth attempting as it was simply too dangerous. Once moving you had to plant your foot all the way to nsl and took about 20 seconds to get there.
Second attempt was in an 04 Mondeo. Now this was better in that the engine had more power but the problem was that cruising at 60mph it didn't know what gear to select :confused: it would cut to 5th then decide it wanted 4th so would change down, upon changing down it would think no I need 5th and change up then change its mind again. So at nsl it was constantly changing unless you flipped to tiptronic mode, not good :rotz:
I haven't touched one since but the newer concept of the DSG auto's and the fact that a lot of respected manufactures are offering this combination albeit with conventional auto boxes has me curious as to whether they are any better these days.
Opinions please
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Considering this is a known issue with disk handbrakes I don't know why they dont use a small drum brake inside the rear disk to stop it happening. My old Pug had this system and it wouldn't budge an inch with the handbrake applied.
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If you drill it the insurance companies could see it as a modification in the event of a claim, whereas a pipercross or similar panel filter can be quickly removed and replaced for a standard filter
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This thread may help you as the 2.5 rack has several part numbers http://briskoda.net/ask-tech/mk4-r32-steering-rack-alternatives/146129/
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It's particularly annoying when your tailing someone with fogs on as theres very little you can do to avoid being dazzled
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france do it.
france = better than UK as a place to live.
If thats true why are the foreigners queueing up at Frances back door to come here
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This diagram shows the 2 types
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You have the standard golf arb. I know exactly the shape your describing and it isn't the R32 bar. Different droplinks that fit to the wishbone will allow it to fit. you need droplinks like these
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I have Koni FSD and H&R springs and love them.
Handling is so much better than a standard car, it's not too low so I have managed to keep my cupra splitter and it is a lot less crashy over speed bumps.
The extra confidence that a well damped car can give is amazing.
The problem with the standard set up is it is under damped. Trouble is people have fitted FSD's with tired springs and found they are very bouncy so new a springs either standard or uprated are a must if you go for these imo.
If I had it to do again though I would go Weitec coilovers purely on the cost.
My springs and shocks come to about £550 and the springs have increased in price considerably since, they where £150ish delivered when I purchased and last price I saw was about £220.
Had I known I could get decent coilovers for £500 then that would have won me.
Sadly the Weitecs only came to light earlier in the year, up to then the popular choice was KW's but they start at about £650 for the V1's
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Your symptoms sound similar to mine here http://briskoda.net/octavia-i/epc-light-16706-code/135510/
I am guessing it is the same problem but you will need a code scan to confirm.
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Very nice How easy was it to do? Did you remove the tyres to do this?
My RS8 replicas are looking worse for wear due to laquer peeling and bubbling so would be interested in doing this too.
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The Fabia has huge lumps of acceleration but understeers more so won't go round a corner as fast as the Octi. It's not a surprise that it equalled you, the 0-60 times are only something like 1/2 a second apart iirc so whats that in real terms? half a car length or so.
In the twisties you would have started to move away steadily.
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Easy really, just get it mapped, uprate the suspension, brakes and rear arb and you will not have time to smirk, you'll be too busy looking where your going.
:iagree: although the map should be 2nd or 3rd on the list, standard suspension really doesn't compliment a remap
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Cheers gents, I read about people drilling and cutting slots but that is so neat I think I'll go with that approach
nothing wrong with the pikey option haven't lost boost yet despite the recent heat and I'm Revo'd as well
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The Vrs came with ASR or ESP as an option (Standard on WRC edition)
As you have an ASR button that is what you have and yes it is traction control.
As for the flatspot a throttle body clean usually sorts issues like this as it can get pretty dirty with the recirculating oil vapours. Look in the tech section and there is a handy guide with pics
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well it must be that awesome have some very handy sales people ( 1 lady) working for them;):thumbup:
Clive are you trying to get a discount on your next order
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what the forge tip mate?
A pain in the a$$ to fit with no real benefits. Been there and reverted to original. Westallc has fitted a silicon tip that is an excellant product and much better fitting than the forge but unless you want bling I wouldn't bother as the gains aren't there.
ive been told that a forge diverter valve is worth getting :S deos this give any hbp ? thanksNo bhp increase but a more reliable dv. After remapping some OEM dv's have been known to fail. A sensible upgrade but again no gains.
Spend on the suspension first would be my honest advice as a car that handles will overall be quicker than a mapped car that doesn't and will be much more fun to drive on twisty roads.
I'm not even sure I would remap a car again personally but I would improve the suspension and brakes every time.
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I have a 4 hole whiteline arb. I started on 2nd hardest and it was great but curiousity got the better of me and after a couple of weeks went to hardest.
I love it and have never gone back definitley recommend you try it and see how you get on.
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its not stopped it from starting just giving mil light
Is that true when its warm? My car started fine everytime from cold but refused to start if it was warm. Also the engine would just die sometimes and left me stranded a couple of times
Read my thread here for more about this problem http://briskoda.net/octavia-i/epc-light-16706-code/135510/
MK 1 VRS Gearbox problem
in Skoda Octavia Mk I (1996-2004)
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I would start with an oil change. Most garages will tell you it is sealed for life and can only be topped up but it is a simple enough job. Use genuine vag stuff as this seems to be the best