Hi guys,

As the title suggests I have a sloppy gearbox linkage as shown in the video below. The nut and bolt seems to be both the cure for a previous issue but also the cause of this one as it’s warn away the hole in the shaft from the gearbox making it sloppy. The seal to the gearbox for that linkage is also in need of being replaced and I’ll also in need of a clutch soon.

Is this repairable (as the gearbox works fine otherwise) and if so how or should I just find a replacement box?

Regards Rob

The reason why SKODA did not specify a bolt to be used, but rather a roll pin, is exactly that, a bolt will cause wear on the gearbox selector shaft.

Hear me out, what will you do

You will remove the bolt and slide the sleeve back you will measure the dimension of the now ovaled out hole on the gear selector, you will choose a slotted spring pin as per ISO 8752 or DIN 1481 that will have around 1-1.5mm of compression you will drill out the hole of the sleeve (NOT THE GEARBOX SHAFT THE SLEEVE OF THE GEAR SELECTOR) to the appropriate size that will be exactly the same as the now worn out hole on the gear selector rod. You will install the new spring pin with an Oetiker hose clamp over it to avoid creep.

As for the sealing, you can replace it easily while you have the selector disassembled.

Use this part no 002301227B https://www.autodoc.gr/vika/13155906

Use a flat-blade screwdriver and lever it out. Put masking tape on the selector rod and slide the new one in. Sit it home, and you are okay.

When you remove the box, refresh the 5th gear nut (N90790601) and seal the gearbox with Locktite 5923. It could be worthwhile splitting the case just to reseal it. Replace the cv axles seals while you are in there (002301227E or 002301227C)

I personally advise for the double lipped 002301227E (https://www.autodoc.gr/corteco/2094579)

vs the single lipped 002301227C (https://www.autodoc.gr/corteco/7770799)

Use 3Lt of high performance GL4/GL4+ gear lubricant, I choose https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/high-performance-gear-oil-gl4-sae-75w-90-p000233.html#4434

Hope I helped, HAPPY NEW YEAR

Edited 1 January1 Jan by Thefeliciahacker

16 hours ago, Rsedmonds said:

As the title suggests I have a sloppy gearbox linkage

Ream my thread

"Skoda Felicia gear box leak"

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/524227-skoda-felicia-gearbox-leak/

I bought and installed this:

VAG 002301227B

VIKA 005415197 (FORD Transit has the same)

https://kritosparts.gr/Part/TSIMOUXA-EPILOGEA-002301227B/eG13002301227B

@Rsedmonds you want any more help?

With the change of Gear Oil this additive could help:

Liqui Moly Gear Oil Additive MoS2

https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/gear-oil-additive-p000009.html#tab-label-description-title

3 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

@Rsedmonds you want any more help?

Hi,

I was asking for future information more than anything and the gearbox will be my next port of call after getting the engine up and running. My main aim was to ask whether it was repairable or if I needed to source a replacement.

In general the gearbox works fine (I think) and selects gears easily at the moment though the gear lever does have an obvious amount of play. The clutch pedal is close to the floor but again these are both battles for another day.

1 hour ago, Rsedmonds said:

The clutch pedal is close to the floor but again these are both battles for another day.

loosen it

2 hours ago, Rsedmonds said:

though the gear lever does have an obvious amount of play. The clutch pedal is close to the floor but again these are both battles for another day.

If there is a Kit is available,i have bought and install it,very good results.

In engine bay there is the clutch cable,use a plier to hold steady the hexagon part (A)

and with the other hand use a 10mm wrench to loosen the bolt (B) few clicks.

4 hours ago, Rsedmonds said:

I was asking for future information more than anything and the gearbox will be my next port of call after getting the engine up and running. My main aim was to ask whether it was repairable or if I needed to source a replacement.

I hope I explained well enough how you will tackle the shifter sloppiness

Replacing gearbox seals (Skoda Felicia) in english.

https://www.skodabook.ru/en/remain/Felicia/transmission/gearbox/zamena-salnikov-korobki-peredach

4 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

I hope I explained well enough how you will tackle the shifter sloppiness

That’s great thanks 🙏🏻

A change of gearbox oil may not be a priority now but I have always found a thorough drain, (clean if required) and refill using a good quality modern oil (good quality synthetic) helps with the feel of the shift (perhaps muted a bit with rod/cables linkages) and noise of the box as well as wear of course. Some engineers and mechanics may say it makes no odds and the oil is for life but it does make a (good) difference and even the best quality oils start to deteriorate from as little as single digits thousands of miles of use. Hopefully with a change to a good quality suitable oil extra additive isn't required. Easier changes can also possibly help with clutch use and wear.

I also used to change and improve the oil type in the rear diffs of the cars I had.

Each part, component and system you improve (by whatever means) helps with the running and wear of related or associated parts, components and systems. And things like heat transfers. Freer moving parts, components and systems that are more efficient can also help with power delivery and mpg.

For all fluid changes being thorough is best, get the fluid hot/warm (H&S cautions obviously as required) so that it flowes out more and more easily so that more of it and any crud it holds or is with it is removed so that more new fresh is put back in reducing its dilution by the residue of old fluid and crud left in. Even if you remove the engine/gearbox/rear axle from the vehicle getting all of the oil out isn't possible without more work so whilst they are on the vehicle you can only go for getting as much out as reasonably possible (or going for more than one change for g/box and rear axle).

Of course always keep in mind the real priorities - brakes, steering, suspension (all three include tyres), safety electrics (lights, horn, wiper, blower, etc.) reflective number plates (see and be seen) and of course for these modern 1990s cars the other safety items.

On another theme, putting up reasonable quality photos (you get more information in landscape photos generally) could help the others to spot things on your son's pick-up good and not so good for how things are or should be. Difficult of course to see black or dark against black or dark and if things are covered in oil and/or crud but things can sometimes be spotted that could save time on diagnosis or explaining or perhaps see something that could prevent further issues, wrong parts or fitting (perhaps not that thermostat housing in the circumstances. And we all make mistakes, very many and very many times, and repeated for me.

34 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Some engineers and mechanics may say it makes no odds and the oil is for life but it does make a (good) difference and even the best quality oils start to deteriorate from as little as single digits thousands of miles of use. Hopefully with a change to a good quality suitable oil extra additive isn't required. Easier changes can also possibly help with clutch use and wear.

Oil is considered lifetime for the design life of the vehicle, which is 100.000 to 150.000km, not in the case of the Felicia.

That's why modern engines ask for 30.000km oil change intervals, cause with 3 oil changes it will meet the design life of the automobile. That is why start-stop "does no damage."

75W-90 GL-4 gear oil, 2.2-2.4 litres

Skoda says change after 60.000 Km but i will do a change after 30-40.000 Km

I was referring to gearbox oil then by the way.

If it's considered then why isn't it stated. 100,000 to 150,000km is only 62 - 93,000 miles neither is a lifetime for a vehicle. At an an annual average of 12,000 miles per year that's only 5 - 7.5 years!

I'm not sure which modern car engines you thinking of that ask for 30,000km other than the VWŠkoda's on "Long Life" oil and wotsit oil changes instead of annual / 9,400 miles. Those designers must be very disappointed that some of their engines last longer. Not to worry in future the computer electronics, programs and formats will have the vehicles recycled sooner. But some don't want to keep the car too many years and aren't bothered how long it lasts after their possession which is fair enough as no matter what it is new hypercar or old used car it's only a car, lump of metal (and plastics).

I was reading about million mile (not km) cars the other week some were even modern IIRC.

The way things are with newer cars it pays even more to keep old cars running well.

Life is also not just about how long but how well too.

Time passes very quickly, in the future you will find that it was a blink of an eye years and decades have passed.

56 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

2.2-2.4 litres

I use 3 liters to aid in heat capacity and to allow some oil loss.

But yeah, official capacity is 2.4L

55 minutes ago, nta16 said:

annual average of 12,000 miles per year that's only 5 - 7.5 years!

EXACTLY, vehicles are engineered for 150.000km or 10years

56 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Those designers must be very disappointed that some of their engines last longer. Not to worry in future the computer electronics, programs and formats will have the vehicles recycled sooner. But some don't want to keep the car too many years and aren't bothered how long it lasts after their possession which is fair enough as no matter what it is new hypercar or old used car it's only a car, lump of metal (and plastics).

If I am paid to engineer a solution with a design life of x years or x cycles etc. And I design something that lasts even 1.1x then I am not doing my job properly and I should be fired. Industry works with the 5th and 95th percentile, meaning that 90% of parts should last at last x, the remaining 10% will last longer or shorter, just based on a normal distribution.

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

The way things are with newer cars it pays even more to keep old cars running well.

Life is also not just about how long but how well too.

Well look, you have to understand market demands and what consumers want. Okay?

If you can have a manufacturing budget allocation of 20.000 euros per vehicle, you can either put all that money into making a very reliable car that will last a quadrillion miles, but nobody will want to buy. Or you can make a car that will give what consumers want and need by compromising on different aspects. If you don't want to go bankrupt and you are a mass market company, not a niche one, you'd better follow market trends if you cannot set them.

Consumers want cheap SUVs, take existing platforms and suvise them even if they possess no off-road ability.

Consumers want touchscreen infotainment because it feels premium, get the cheapest CPU, make the laggiest, crappiest infotainment, give it a nice UI incorporate all physical buttons on the screen, cause its cheaper and much more efficient from an electronics point of view.

Use cheap ABS recycled plastics but give them a fancy texture so they look premium, give them 0.5 cents ambient lighting, cause it makes it feel premium. Give them vegan leather seats that are just plain vinyl and much more harmful to the environment than actual tannery work, cause we ain't killing animals.

And you are golden, you gave consumers what they want and it was even cheaper for you to make.

It's the same thing with clothing, the same thing with consumer appliances etc.

Why almost all clothes now cost 2x more and have at least a percentage of CHEAP quality synthetics (acrylic or polyester, not nylon cause nylon PA is a very high performance plastic). And I say cheap cause some really expensive clothes choose blends of high-quality synthetics for certain properties. Why make them overseas and move production to even cheaper places. PRC now makes very high-quality clothes so companies move to Bangladesh, Myanmar, Pakistan etc.

Cmon man, cmon, we brought it to ourselves with our uncontrolled consumerism

Edited 3 January3 Jan by Thefeliciahacker

1 hour ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

I use 3 liters to aid in heat capacity and to allow some oil loss.

But from previous change some quantity of oil will remain inside,can not 100% come out no matter what.

On top of it 3 litres?

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

But from previous change some quantity of oil will remain inside,can not 100% come out no matter what.

On top of it 3 litres?

Yes I have no problems with venting or anything, of course I do get worse fuel mileage but the difference in the time to heat up is huge

11 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

the difference in the time to heat up is huge

So more quantity of oil = more time to get heat the whole amount, yes but in every day cool driving in City how much "dangerous" heat can be generated inside the gear box?

In a track day yes but in traffic?

13 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

So more quantity of oil = more time to get heat the whole amount, yes but in every day cool driving in City how much "dangerous" heat can be generated inside the gear box?

In a track day yes but in traffic?

I will tell you, heat capacity dictates the time to heat up, but the interfacing area also dictates the amount of heat you can get out, the problem is that more oil means more viscous losses overall, so more heat. This generally compensates the increase in ΔQ due to A increase. Thus we can say the only thing affected is the heat capacity and therefore the time to heat up and also the τ, the thermal time constant of the system. A system with a larger time constant means it will react less to transient conditions, which is good, it means that if I have 100C of steady state oil temp, then if I suddenly have to tackle an uphill section, the gearbox will be much more reluctant to heat up for that short duration; effectively, it dampens temperature variation to an extent.

So for me at least that is enough of a positive attribute to have it filled to 3L. In city traffic, you will really see no difference, although you may see slightly lower overall temperatures due to low rotational speed and lower viscous losses while having the interface area increase.

But most importantly, since my gearbox leaks around 150ml/year it's a cheap reassurance of never dropping below a safe oil level.

9 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

since my gearbox leaks around 150ml/year it's a cheap reassurance of never dropping below a safe oil level.

Oh i didn't knew this.

On the other hand there is no problem with the pressure inside the whole system with 600+ ml more on it?

58 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

On the other hand there is no problem with the pressure inside the whole system with 600+ ml more on it?

None, really none!

3 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

But most importantly, since my gearbox leaks around 150ml/year it's a cheap reassurance of never dropping below a safe oil level.

All that bluff and technical blinding to get to the real reason. 😄

2 hours ago, nta16 said:

All that bluff and technical blinding to get to the real reason

HAHAHA if it leaks, it has oil, is my motto.

Well, in all seriousness, resealing it is very hard.