pmdc199

All pics here, to large to upload https://www.dropbox.com/sh/dhx69601j4u898t/AAAeRB7h3kUVSOK5zGlZ7flna?dl=0 These came off my OCTAVIA 2010 VRS which I have sold. I used to swap them each year. Tyres are all very good condition. Bought new in 2014, not used since 2018, been stored in garage. Alloys are generally in good condition. One is kerbed and could be used as is or improved - Pic 3 bottom right, Pic 4 slight mark on left (below) I have put in lots of pictures of each wheel to show true representation. Part = 5E0601025AC ET51 5x112 Fits Many VAG cars not just Octavia 2 and 3 GARAGE CLEAR OUT SO QUICK SALE £200 for all Gatwick based - collection, or if full price paid willing to drive them up to 1 hr each way

wow, that’s good. my 4 wheel hunter was 70 quid.

not 1Z3? The bilstein web catalogue

I put Bilsteins front and rear. So much nicer. Not the cheapest shock but, good. Rears were 92 delivered https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231490959426

Sorry pressed submit. My shocks on rear on my 2010 were shot. Could push them all the way in and no damping. Bilsteins now, like a new car.

The vrs ones ones are shorter than normal. I changed mine. Like you say 118mm I used these, not the best but here is the part number under OE on site https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/article/febi/23504

I did not do any bushes, all seemed ok. I have stopped now. No money left and soon the new bits worth more than the car

i took my whole strut and hub unit off. Much easier to work on imho. i got a hunter 4 wheel yesterday too. Quite a way out. But I did tie rods too

do you know who vag use as OE?

what discs and pads did you use. I used Pagid, but disc rusting already. are they poly bushes

I found the strut spreader tool was junk. My metal too old and just crumbled. Used a chisel in end. Not ideal. What did the garage want labour wise to sort the strut?

Sorry, being thick. Yes seen that happen with ball joint. I replaced them too, wheel bearing and struts and coils and top mount. The nearside strut was a pig for me. I had to remove it as would not go all way in. Then sand all the rust away at base of knuckle. Might get a Dremel for next time.

It's so frustrating Did the ARB link snap off the ball joint? If so, while I was looking for ways to solve my problem I came across this idea (second half of video) where it shows putting a groove into the ball to get some grip.

In the end, even caliper off not enough space to drill out. A decent set of lock pliers did the trick.

It’s a triple square, or it was 😂. might leave it, or get a dremmel. Just a pain in butt on axle stands to get under.

Yes exactly what i am saying. Thanks for looking at the manual, really kind. i turned the nut and whole ball was turning. Put 6mm spline in, turned bolt. Top section sheared. Only about 0.5 cm depth is cut out of bolt for triple square. this bolt.

Sorry, so annoyed I forgot. A bolt with the final section of bolt missing where you put the triple square in. Nut and rest of bolt fine. By the brake caliper not on the anti roll bar. Not touched either of those. I might just leave it as the drop links are not worn. I was just finishing a suspension renew. Was not going to bother with them. Stupidly I changed my mind. Both bolt / nuts each side are rusted solid, so not going any where.

The rear on both sides just sheared the top section of bolt where triple square is while undoing nut. it is right next to brakes so no room to drill out etc. Anyone over come this using jack stands not on a lift 🤷🏻‍♂️🙈🙈 They are so thin

Well done, my wipers were a pain too. I had to pull like crazy, but had read stories of people cracking windscreens 😱. The bottom of both my springs were really rusty, glad I changed them.

Phew 😂😂👍🏻👍🏻

My two bilsten shocks were not sided Make sure you fit with arrows on top strut facing back to front of car. Sometimes hard to see on the rubber top mounts. Also Unless I have fitted wrong, the front right arb bolt faces forward, the left faces the other way.

No, fine in that direction, maybe being over cautious

There are a few videos on YouTube that show it being done with Drive shaft still in. They tend to bash the **** out of the knuckle to get strut out. Personally not something I would want to do. All the other ones I looked at, at least took shaft out, and the lower three nuts on ball joint. Some the whole strut and hub with ball joint on to do on bench. That’s what I did. i found - even with the strange strut tool spreader, that the strut was rusted in at top and bottom where strut sits. So, no nice slide out with the pinch bolt area spread. You will have more room with it out. But, search Golf strut removal on You Tube to see what you think. Mine is 10 years old. If yours is newer might be better.

Putting pictures into posts seems to have changed? Or is it the host photo companies that has changed please? or am I just soecial