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I presume you've changed the temperature sensor? Would seem logical as problems are related to the engine being hot. Also worth cleaning the EGR system. Try some fuel additive to clean the injectors. Also worth cleaning the crankcase breather hose with some carb cleaner. Did the plugs you took out look like you'd been burning oil? Is the oil consumption ok?

Just managed to get some 8-foot long planks into the Furby this weekend, they were resting on the inside of the rear light cluster and literally had less than a cm of clearance with respect to the windscreen. Drove very gingerly!

All electronic throttles on the Furbys, no cable throttles. I would take your car to an independent VW specialist to get hooked up to a computer, you can tell all sorts about what is going on with the engine from there, especially if you've had fault lights at odd times.

Thanks for brightening my day, a 1.4 mpi with strut brace and cone filter??? If you add up the cost of all the "mods" you might have been able to get a VRS

Cut your whinging, my 1.4 16v is now £190 for the year. I wondered about getting the CO2 emissions measured to see if I can get it re-banded (aka council tax) . It seems to be in a rather high band to me for only a small car and 1.4 petrol, hardly a gas guzzler. This is for the AUB engine code, I believe the later 1.4 petrol after the face lift is in a lower tax band but then I think they were re-tuned to 75 bhp instead of 100 bhp. Anyone know anything about appealing what tax band you are in?

I have a similar problem relating to the door switch in the driver's door not working, therefore I have to open one of the other cabin doors before the boot will open (I guess a security measure to keep the boot locked whilst it thinks the engine is running/just stopped and all of the passengers are inside the vehicle). Worth a try. Also there is the boot release lever beside the driver's seat.

Why get a VRS at 19 then? I can't understand how all these kids can afford to run one. Get a lower powered car for a year or two and then get something sportier afterwards. Simples.

Have just asked the seller if they also sell snake oil.

I wouldn't bother getting new tyres until the suspension is sorted, a dodgy suspension can very rapidly (if not dangerously) knacker tyres.

Yep at 6 years old I'd change the cambelt and water pump as a priority, regardless of mileage. Doesn't hurt to have the coolant refreshed as a result either.

I think it is dammed right dangerous to darken the lights - it makes it harder for other drivers to see what is going on. Also by essentially camouflaging/stealthing the various sections of the cluster it increases the reaction time for people not familiar with the car as they may not know what colour light to expect to emanate from what section. Is this the new chavvy mod now that Lexus style rear lights are passée? I just hope this kind of thing results in an MOT fail like overly darkened windows should be.

My independent VW garage uses the same oil for diesel and petrol cars, believe it is Quantum 5w30 or 10w40 or there abouts. My AUB engine runs a lot better for it. Glad the original poster has made some progress.

Glad it is sorted. Can't say I'm the greatest fan of this engine as it seems a bit flaky but then I wouldn't fancy the move within VAG group and elsewhere to smaller petrol engines with turbos/superchargers to make up the power (viz. the Fabia II VRS); even more things to go wrong :S

I feel your pain having the same engine. Do a search for AUB. Common problems which should help you - give the breather hose a clean, it is prone to getting clogged with oil and mayonnaise, run some redex through the fuel tank, check the spark plugs for burning oil as the faults are likely to be due to piston ring issues. Finally it is worth pre-emptively changing the engine coolant temperature sensor as your problems seem worse when the engine is hot. Finally get a throttle body clean and realignment (need vagcom). Another thing to look into is the EGR valve.

It is also worth tucking the metal clip from the shoulder seat belts on each side into the corresponding cut outs in the trim beside each door.

Both are going to be a bit underpowered for an estate, but the SDI should have more torque and better economy. Also the SDI ought to be more reliable.

I get the momentary losses of power that you mention. I've got a 1.4 16v 100 bhp (AUB code) - the rev counter drops to zero and it is like you've hit the brakes and then everything is back to normal again a second or two later - I get this about once every 500 - 1000 miles. I've seen it on this forum quite a few times, it just seems to be another design flaw of this engine like the surging tickover. I've no idea what causes it or how to cure it, the main things I find that help are: using good branded petrol (BP, Shell), using super unleaded most of the time, keeping the crankcase breather hose clean, running a bottle of redex through the petrol occasionally, getting a throttle body clean and re-alignment, getting an EGR valve clean and finally giving it the beans occasionally. I hope you get to the bottom of your Christmas tree lights, it does sound like something electrical.

Are there any sources of RF interference near to your work?

Very nice but it will never be up to the standards of a home hifi system, especially the brands that you mention.

Can you get fast enough in an SDI to need to use the brakes?

This doesn't solve things though as the alcohol/amine content evaporates at the nozzle themselves still leading to frozen nozzles. I have Comma screen wash at more than 50% strength and the nozzles still froze for the whole length of a 1.5 hour journey at -8°C on Christmas day, even after squirting antifreeze at the nozzles at the start. They worked on the way back, presumably due to heat soak from the engine whilst parked and as the ambient temperature had increased to around -2°C. A better option is heated nozzles, I'm not sure if this is possible as an after market fit? The other thing I suppose is to seal up where the rear pipe pops off around the back seat area and hope that it just pops off in the engine bay if it is going to so that it is easier to get at.

A lot of the fast fit places do free brake checks. You could at least get it checked there and then decide whether to get them to fix things or go elsewhere.

Just listened to the youtube clip, that was exactly like the noise on my car, the garage didn't try cleaning or repairing the starter or anything like that, it was simply replaced and that sorted it. Not cheap mind you I think it was about £120 for a VW approved refurbed starter motor.

I had similar sounding symptons on my car when I bought it, it was repaired under warranty with a new starter motor - this sorted it. My symptons was a screechy-whiny noise for a couple of seconds after starting the car.

You could hire a lot of taxis for £600 and just drive the car on the "better" winter days!!!!!