Psyzygy

Thank you! Five weeks of nightmare over thanks to Zachry and Briskoda. It was the fuel pump relay and I didn't even have to buy a new one. taling the top off and opening/closing it a couple of times sorted it out (though I WILL get a spare ). Happy Solstice up there in the land of the midday moon :cheers:

Next stop; Norway! Buying Zachry a drink Thank you man

FUEL PUMP RELAY!!!

I've also just realised that taping the relay shut will cause the pump to run all the time...

Thinking out loud, it may be a dodgy connection on the pump.

Fuel pump runs and the fuse didn't blow. Sod testing the relay, I'm taping it shut :lol: (Though why the ECU would tell the car to stop sending power to the pump, injector & Lambda sensor 2 seconds after the ign is turned on, I have no idea.) It does activate again when the starter is turned, though as you say, if it's not firing up, it will shut it down again :confused: - oh yes, safety.

Spark continues when starter is turned (at least 10 seconds). Fuse 4 blew when relay was bypassed (I might check that again as I have a spare fuse), so the fuel pump didn't run. If it does when the bypass is fitted (and the fuse doesn't blow) then I'll test the relay. [Edit] I'll test the pump too

The pump doesn't run when the relay is bypassed - wire between 30 & 87 - 30 is a constant live, 87 powers the fuel pump, the lambda sensor & the injector through fuse 4. The pump DIFINITELY ran after the car had been standing untouched for a few days (i.e. fuel system depressurised). Something I did has blown fuse 4 :confused: NOT immobiliser as the spark continues whilst the engine is being turned over (unless the immob is set to deactivate only after the starter motor is released ). How the hell are home mechanics supposed to work on these things? The spark isn't blue, it's white, though as previously noted, the car did fire from it! So what did I do that blew fuse 4? And when? At least it's not blown again.

Yes, it clicks, then it switches itself off again! There is power to fuse 4 for about 2 seconds after the ignition is switched on then it clicks again and power goes off :confused: THANKS! You're a STAR! Mind you, bypassing the relay doesn't make the car run either. I'd have thought a squirt of starter-gas would make it run for longer than a second too... So that would seem to point to the immobiliser again (which, if TT is right, I've by-passed). :confused::confused::confused: The immobiliser not only knocks out fuel pump & ignition, it also cuts power to the lambda sensor heater & the injector. The ECU actually controls how the injector & ignition components are earthed rather than powered. I'll check whether the spark dies - spark plugs out - after a couple of seconds too. Definitive test!

Pot Black?

I think an over tight cam belt would have stretched a bit in 10k miles, though it was my initial thought. If the sound increases with road speed, then the engine can usually be discounted as the source and vice versa. I'd still get them to check the cam belt tension, especially if the noise started after they changed it. Another possibility is the water pump they changed. The factory fit has a plastic impeller (I think) and it's replaced with a metal bladed one. The main points are road speed vs engine speed, the noise started after the pump was changed and get a mechanic to have a listen. Welcome to Brisky

Remember, if you can't dazzle them with brilliance, baffle them with bullsh!t Get that promotion/job thingy

Then the Police were probably stopping every car of a particular make or model or colour

:iagree:

That's the advice my driving instructor gave me on my first lesson (and during the following 15 years, I was all of them ). It does work though - you're all idiots Back on thread... If we all drove like idiots, the police would have a lot more to do.

Fuel solenoid & pump work (There's even some petrol on the plugs when I've spun the engine!) The question is, is there ENOUGH fuel? The pump ran for a few seconds & then stopped, I'm assuming this is because the system was re-pressurised and it's not a constant flow bypass system (I'll check Haynes). The engine only ran for a couple of seconds - in fact, it just kicked & then died on "Gas" so there IS a possibility it's the immobiliser, that is if the fuel pump is supposed to keep running... The immobiliser wasn't flagged by VAG com, that is if it would be flagged if there was a fault with it. What are the odds against the coil blowing, the fuel filter blocking AND the immobiliser playing up all at the same time? Hey Ho! More news tomorrow

With a 1.9D lump? I agree though, what's the point of getting there economically (i.e. slowly) when you can get there quick & have fun on the way?

I'll check output from fuse 4 with the ignition on to test the relay It definitely clicks when the ign is turned on.

I like the improvised oil filler cap lock

It's the man, not the machine and we all know that Skoda driving men are REAL men

:iagree:

I'd check vacuum hoses, the fuel tank vent system (emission control) and possibly the fuel filter.

Possibly.

Sorted?