mark_sargeant19

Hey buddy, For your first question: it depends on what you want the induction kit to do, if its for noise etc then i would say yes its worth having, if your thinking its going to make your car noticably faster, then i would say definatly not. Second: You will get a performance increase with a full system exhaust, but probably not great amounts on a 1.6 to be honest, it should not effect your fuel economy at all, all it is really doing it getting rid of waste gasses faster than a standard one. BUT chances are with an induction kit and exhaust you will enjoy the sound of your car more, therefore drive it harder and faster, reducing fuel economy HTH

i would say pretty much identical to before, the difference in spool up is so minute! I still have one tho, just because its blue and shiny lol

I would say the 3rd option you listed, Looks just like the one I used for mine. I can't see to well though because im on the mobile phone! I'll take a look later for you mate. I've used the 2.25 diameter pipe and I know a few others also have (oggy etc), I think if you went the 3 inch pipe then you might end up with bag loads of lag! I'm assuming that you already know that you will have to also buy another 90 degree pipe and the section with the map sensor in it.

I fed it in from the top, but then went under the car to attatch it to the turbo. Worked for me

are you trying to fit it from the top or bottom? i found it loads easier from the bottom

yeah your right i am completly going down the wrong route! whoops no idea about the vRS badge mate

they should stick on fine with just the black sticky foam already attatched to the back, i think when standard the 2 locating pins might also be melted or something once they are through the holes on the grill, mine is done just with the sticky foam and ive had no problems whatsoever

no problems whatsoever, theres quite a few people on here without them, they are simply a splash guard

Haha yeah I've been having a good laugh at that thread! Has given me many hours of amusement at work!!! I've also heard that if you put sugar in your fuel tank it raises your octane to top fuel dragster levels!

Right its that time of year again, OIL CHANGE TIME! yay! Ive only done 6000 since i changed my oil about a year ago, but im looking at possibly doing some kind of engine flush as my car has hit 114,000 now and ive no idea if one has ever been done! 1 pretty big problem though, iv got no idea what im doing!!!! i can do an oil change no probs, but ive got no idea what to use for the flush (certainly not my 5/30 liquid gold castrol edge, my pockets aint that deep!!!!) or what to do with the product once ive got it! pointers please!!!

i dont know how tru this is, so dont take it as biblical, but isnt there a risk of the water cracking a cooling channel in the block if its frozen all the way down to the bottom hoses??

yeah i also wouldnt mind knowing about the steering rack bush, as im planning on changing my rack at the beginning of feb and already have a poly bush ready to re-install

if you paid him through paypal then you should be able to claim the money back as "goods never recieved", thats if you didnt send the cash as a gift obviously

im not a huge fan, but at the end of the day its your car, so your choice to do whatever you please. tut tut, just think of the extra seconds it will add at your autotests (is that the right term?) lol

The B&M item i have fitted shortens the throw at the gearstick with a new linkage, i dont suppose anyone has ever thought of doing both the gearbox link and the gearstick link????????

http://www.carrlane.com/SiteData/WebRefs/Images/TI_Info_01-12.gif heres a pic of what ken said not to use, some people know them as "ez-outs"

Yep it was all done in situ, i was expecting to take the turbo out so i had all the gaskets etc ready, but then gave it a go, and it worked, so that made my day! With regards to the stud extractor, the whole thing turns, so you choose the correct size hole (shown in left of pic) for the studs, then literally just attatch a socket and turn the cam until it contacts the stud, the whole device will grip and then spin your stud out. Its alot easier to see how it all works once the tool is in your hand, trust me, it took me a little while to decide how it worked as well

im not 100% but im pretty sure its a blind hole

One of mine snapped flush with the downpipe, so when i went to fit a new system i used this stud extractor http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-14156-Stud-Extractor-6-19mm/dp/B0001K9Q1S worked a treat, i didnt have to use plusgas or heat, but i may have been lucky, and just as a matter of course i replaced all of the studs and bolts while the downpipe was off HTH

i also have this, very very rarely tho, and it only ever happens once at a time

Ive managed 155 on the clock, which was reading 147 on the satnav

is there a definitive list of what should be included in the toolkit in the boot? because all i have is my wheel nut adaptor, breaker bar, and jack

Yeah I have all the bolts that I need for the subframe etc for when I do my arb, haha talking of strut braces I only fitted mine yesterday, so I'll be needing new cup washers if I go down that route then!

cheers guys, im thinking about just fitting the ARB straight to the spare subframe with rack on it, then just switching the 2. straight swap, or opening a can of worms?

Evening all Im looking at doing the LCR rack conversion next month at the same time that i do the R32 FARB change, ive managed to locate a quick rack, but its still attatched to the front subframe, with the leon anti roll bar etc all still there. Im wondering if it would be easier to leave the rack attatched to the subframe, and then replace the ARB and all the components i have, and then simply replace the whole front subframe? I dont suppose anyone can shed any light on this? Thanks in advance