octaviavrs170

I fixed the problem with something so unbelievably simple. PETROL!!! Lol

Changed fuel pump and power cable connector was mega brittle and cracked away the securing tab. It still connects and primes the pump but it's not completely secure. When driving the car cuts out. Could this cause the connector to dislodge or move about enough to stop the pump getting power and cause the engine to shut down. Cheers

Well took the car a spin to petrol station and back and.......... still cutting out. Now I don't know whether this has to do with the power cable connector to the fuel pump being damaged. Not damaged in a way that the cabling itself is damaged but the plastic housing with the securing clip is. Whether this is making the connector jump and move about when driving it's possible. But yet again the throttle seems to go and the car cuts out. And when i lock it and unlock it, it starts. WTF!!!! Now what's been changed on the car is a new fuel pump, complete pcv system and hockey puck valve, checked 409 relay and replaced with new (which wasn't working) so replaced with old one which still is working, new throttle body gasket and cleaned the throttle body. It's pulls really really well now and then it cuts out. And surprise surprise no eml on dash. I'm mega browned now and I've lost patience and confidence with the car. Anyway suggestions appreciated.

Had a look at why the car was running lumpy this morning. Simply the boost pipe from the inlet to the pcv check valve that I changed had come off the check valve side. Reattached and secured with a jubilee. Happy days. Car idling sweet.

Plymouth branch of tps are a no-no. Refused to sell me unless I went through murrays skoda. Had to purchase genuine pcv system from Parks motor group skoda franchise and needless to say it cost me an absolute fortune. And that's with a staff discount. Even when the head engineer from the Plymouth depot called from Parks motor group regarding the parts they refused as they don't recognise Parks as a trade even though Parks motor group are one of Scotland largest independent car dealers and the largest independent coach operator with depots in Rochdale and Plymouth as well as Scotland. Can't understand why.

Again sorry for the very late update to the thread about the shenanigans of the car. Had to wait ages on a auto electrician to look at the car. Anyway before I got him to look at the car I changed the fuel pump relay 409 and it never worked. Pump wouldn't prime. When the auto spark looked at the car the fuel pump relay from gsf was useless and he had to put a direct feed to the pump and bang the bottom of the tank for it to work so he diagnosed it with a faulty motor pump. Well i got a new one and changed it tonight at work and what an absolute pita of a job. Easy enough to remove but a pita to re-install. That rubber seal around the pump and the tank has to be a perfect seal. Needless to say doing it in the dark ain't a good idea. However eventually got it in and it wouldn't start. Turns out the multiplug to the pump is damaged as it's unbelievably brittle. It connects ok but the "tang" that helps secure the plug to the pump is damaged so the connector sits on the plug but loose. So now going to get the auto spark back out to fix that. Car is running good but very lumpy on idle revs. Sounds like its missing. Sits about 800rpm and lumpy. So going to check the coils for correct fitment tomorrow and contact the auto spark again to fix the multiplug but apart from that I'm so glad the car is back on the road. I ran the car for a good 30 mins to help recharge the battery and it never cut out like it was before. And the car pulls like a train due to rectifying the boost leaks and fitting a new pcv system. Anyway I hope what I've done so far has been helpful to other members. I know I'm not a brilliant blogger about my car but what I found on this site is so much useful information about the possibilities of what causes the problem. And I hope my rectification journey is helpful to others. Thanks to everyone for all the information and advice. It's invaluable.

One of the lads at work has a delphi scanner. Hopefully this shows something.

It's not even starting up just cranking over. It's THE most annoying thing ever. Anyway I have booked an auto electrician to look at the car asap. I love my car but unfortunately I'm losing patience with it.

Unfortunately no spare key. And definitely never dropped the key. If it is an immobiliser fault is there any way of confirming this as I don't have the money time or tbh patience to fault find every piece of electrical system to find out it is the immobiliser. If I can't get this fixed it's getting broke for spares. I've spent enough cash on the car. Everything genuine parts as well especially recently with pcv system. That's direct from dealer.

I definitely don't the hear anything from the pump. I definitely used to hear that specific noise.

When I started the car it cranked up then 2 seconds later cut out. Then it restarted and the same again. 2 seconds later cut out. It faded out. It's refused since then to start. It tries to start up. It cranking but it's as if no fuel is getting into it. I changed the crankshaft sensor too when the same probkem occurred last year about November time. He coaxed it to start with easystart. The mechanic at work tested the electric connection to the pump tonight and he said there was nothing to pump and not to change the pump. He reckons definitely electrical. Am I right in assuming that relay 447 and 109 ould be a culprit.

Sorry for the lack of installation pictures I was too busy swearing as I have huge hands and it was such a tight space to manoeuvre my hands.

Right guys replaced the pcv system. All hoses including check value and hockey puck. However car still won't start. It has definitely got compression, ignition spark, charged up battery and fuel etc. I also just changed the 409 fuse tonight and nothing. When I got mechanic at work to test electrical connections he said there was no power going to the pump. And when i browsed internet something about the 447 relay was mentioned when someone spoke of a 1.9tdi cutting out. Has anyone got any ideas. Also where are the fuse boxes on the car. I know of the one on the drivers side and the one at the battery. Is there any other one. Thanks in advance guys. I'm at my wits end with this bloody car tbh. Oh and here is a couple of pics of the pcv install.

I personally think it's absolutely stunning. Love the black and the tints set it off lovely as do the grill. The only thing I would add to it as I've always done with my cars would be wind deflectors. But apart from that I love it.

Yeah kentphil1 it's the s shaped hose number 9 hose from the crankcase breather to the t piece that destroyed itself. Car won't start at all and I'm assuming that with the hoses being buggered this will do this. I'm still waiting on the new pcv system being delivered from my work. Hopefully be doing it on Thursday on my day off. Sick of walking to and from work. Lol. Tbh was considering even doing the pcv delete and putting in a catch can but even after reading the how to guides I'm not confident at all.

Another update. Took car to torquay today and it broke down. Had to get it recovered. The hoses perished and crumbled in my hand. Anyway need to order the pipe directly under the inlet manifold that connects to the t piece. Anyone got any idea what the part number is or where I can get it. Cheers

Just a small update. Ordered a new pcv system and still waiting on it to be delivered. Got it from main dealer through my work who own a skoda dealership. Parks motor group is who I work for. Was looking around for other boost leaks while I was in engine bay and found a hole in the hose at top of diverter valve. So did a bit of botching to the pipe and cut off the part that was knackered and refitted the pipe. Bit of a stretch though but just enough to refit. Will replace that soon too. Cleared all vault codes and car goes like a bullet again. Still changing pcv system as it definitely has a leak. Oil residue over inlet and engine covers and still can hear a slight leak from the inlet area. But fibally getting there with the car. Will do a write up when I do pcv system hopefully soon.

Absolutely spot on kentphil1. Ordered up today. Hope for sure it fixed this time.

Thanks for this it's a massive help. However still not too sure what to order. If I were to replace all hoses, pcv, elbow and other bits what numbers would I need to order. I'm struggling a bit to work it out without actually stripping the car parts out as I need the car daily. If you or anyone else could point me in the right direction that would be great.

Yeah I read bowders' write up. Total shame about the pictures though. Thanks for the advice i really appreciate that. Gonna have a bash over the weekend. Will do a write up of how I fought my way through it. It's gonna be a battle. It always is with me and cars. So a new s pipe, pcv valve and elbow will be ordered today.

Right I've been reading about this breather hose issue etc all day and I've come to the conclusion that the s shape hose is knackered. I can hear leaking from that same area under the inlet manifold and after what I've read that's a common problem with the auq engine breather system. So a couple of things: Do I do one or other. 1. Replace with normal hoses 2. Replace with silicone hoses If replacing with silicone hoses who is best to buy them from and would I be better to replace elbow joint from pcv and replace valve itself while I'm there. I'm a bit worried as it looks like a bit of a fragile area as like the comments say that area gets hot and contaminated with age etc and the parts I remove could be and will be brittle. I know people have done this replacement or upgrades with deletes etc but can anyone tell me what to do to make my life easier when I have a bash. I'm not a qualified mechanic but I can do alot to cars with time and patience and knowledge and I'm more than willing to have a good crack at this. Any help advice and guidance would be much appreciated.

Could be bud but it never threw a code when it was scanned for the n75. It's definitely worth looking at though. It cut out again this morning on way to work after only 5 mins driving. Luckily I'm less than 10 mins away from my depot. I even thought about the relay 409 for the pump as they can get a bit bitchy. Possibly a maf sensor. Also when I checked the oil dipstick it was dry. I put a litre in and it's just in the minimum. Will top it up. And it's due a service and needs brakes done ASAP. Aaaagggggghhhhhhh. Bloody cars.

Anyway a small update. Replaced the y piece hose with a part from skoda. A genuine part through my work as they are a skoda dealer. and so far the car ain't cut out. However the boost is still not there. It pulls but not great. What is the best way to test all boost pipes or test the intercooler. Will try and get codes read again in the mean time and clear all faults.

Found this on Internet. It's a part number for the y piece. 06A103221AH Just incase.