Cepheuz

nop, any will do, but some throw out a bigger punch i specialy like the bosh silver "blue coil"

the order i would do it is to check the coil first, "Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance between the side terminals of the coil. Do this with all of the wires to the coil disconnected. You should see 0.75 to 0.81 ohm of resistance. Then check the resistance between either side terminal and the center high tension terminal. The reading should be 10,000 to 11,000 ohms. Any significant deviation from these numbers would indicate that the coil is defective" if the coil is ok, i would remove the HT wire going from the coil to the dizzy and check for spark, if there is spark the i would go on to check that the dizzy rotor is turning and that the removable top part is seated properly and clean, then i would check spark to the plugs if there is spark maybe is just out of phase or too weak, if it is too weak, just replace all HT and the Coil, and double check that the spark plugs are working fine if its out of phase, firing order is as follow Cylinder( from front view): 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 Spark Sequence: 1 - 4 - 2 - 3 so cylinder # 1 goes to #1 on the dizzy, # 2 goes to # 4 on the dizzy, # 3 goes to # 2 on the dizzy and # 4 goes to # 3 on the dizzy ....4 .3.O.1 <- dizzy position the way i have it on mine ....2

Thats a good idea, but if the Headliner's has lumpy spots on the cardboard, i recomend using white paper glue or carperter's glue diluted with water, and soak it, press it and let it to dry in the sun, the water will disipate, and the white glue will fix the cardboard sagging problem, and give it a good base for the carpet glue apply the carpet glue, let it dry and the rub the fabrik in (if its not dry it will stain the fabrik) but since your doing that, why not shell out for a yard of grey Microfiber like the one in this coutch http://www.amcsofa.com/members/896176/uploaded/Bergamo_grey.jpg its an upgrade from the plain fabric and give it a cleaner look (not very expensive here)

i dont hear mine, but i know its working from the flow of gasoline i see on the transparent petrol filter i have on mine

i think is where the trans meets the engine block, that where mine has the hole for it (edited wrong = No Cranck Sensor in Carburetor models) Remove a HT lead conect a plug to ot and ground it, have a friend crank the engine check for a brigh blue spark

edit = delete non applicable info if your driving a long wine, might as well do a full service check to make sure your ride is going to be a good one. Best of luck

i don't know the answer eyther, but first of, take picture of both mounting points and engines so that people here can give you a more informed answer, also, just out of my head i think the most logical thing to do is to use as much as you can from the 1.6 engine and mounting to the favorit, since i think the 1.3 carb (thats the engine i have) is not as powerfull so i guess that was taken into consideration when mounting to the felicia's body

I was thinking of maybe next year change my felicia for a fabia, and i was contemplaiting costs, running cost, fuel economy and other such... i read in wikipeadia and this forum about the fabia, IMHO a felicia is the best choice by far the F.E. of the fabia it much lower than a felicia, parts are more expensive (at least here) and the car itself (1.4 Mpi Classic {petrol}) peformance is worst than the felicia so since the outer shell is what interested me, i'm now looking for a fabia to fit a felicia engine my F.E. average now is 21 mpg (US), since i do only City Driving i'm hoping to get it to stock 27 mpg (US) and with hypermiling get it to 32 mpg (US) seems pretty doable, question is... would the weight of the Fabia body hinder the performance too much? cus the engine swap is very straight forward, and if i use a carburetor one is almost a brisk half a day job.

the material you used was it fabric?, did you intall right away? do you have insulating material between the metal cealing and the "headliner"? i would take it out, clean it properly with some thinner (diluted) and let it dry, once its dry apply fabric adhesive (an interior decorator o someone who handles furniture might be able to help you in this) to the headliner, rub the fabric in and let it sit overnight, when installingthe "headliner" try to include a little insulation, aparently wherever you are is hot or has a lot of sun, cus same thing happens here to all cars above an age

please excuse me if i'm stating something incorrect, but voltage on the batery is close to 12v when discharged, should be arround 13v alternator voltage should be checked @ 3500 rpm apart from that the values seem ok (but the batery is a bit low, maybe due to low temp or i got discharged a couple of times)

is the economic car that make you spend a lot of money on gas (once you go you cant stop) jajajaja i've had problems with my FE and still cant seem to learn the wolf path(short way to granny's house), always take the red riding hood path (longest way to grannys house) definently not a point A to B car, more like A to a1, a2, a3 a4, etc.. untill you finaly remeber oh yeah, i was suposed to get to B

yes, look for a disconected vacuum hose, or a vacuum leak

my instrument panel is very dim compare to newer model cars, to compansate for this i'm thinking of disasemble the intrument panel, paint the inside with high gloss paint (it plastic dull white) maybe even spraying chrome paint (as a base or as a final coat) and that i know will give me more brightness, that and cleaning the dials themself, but, leds do produce more light and less heat, its a very good idea (if you can fit them) Green Bulbs Green = Green Red = Yellow Blue Bulbs Green = Cyan Red = Magenta Red Bulbs Green = Yellow Red = Red this is only perceptual the color doesnt realy change that much, but it does look dimmer because each filter reduces the bandwidth of the color spectrum (thus the lights energy)

with a strobe gun you can check ignition timing with the engine's belt pulley after you have the timing dead on you can atach the strobe gun to the HT of the pistons in order to check valve timing (at least, is a trick i think might work) cylinders are 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 firing order is 1 - 3 - 4 - 2 so when piston # 3 is firing (spark) # 1 exaust valve should be open, when piston # 2 is firing # 1 intake valve should be open... i think that a very crude way of checking but since i'm not a mechanic or a skoda specialist wait for others opinions in this forum to see if that trick works as far as i know if you have a injector model and the timing and valves (tapets) are ok, you should have power and good FE but i guess it would hurt to do a compresion test and take it to the dyno (i'm taking mine after i fix the carburetor)

bag of nail??? yep sounds like the timing chain (yes it does have a timing chain, at least the 1.3 135/136 skoda engine), now that on itself is not a problem, but if the chain is a tooth of yes it would give you loss of power and poor performance, but the only chance of that is if the engine had a overhauling or the valve chain changed wrong by someone. when you changed the head gasket, did you inspect the pistons and everything else? when a head gasket is remove here, everything in the headgasket comes off, and gets inspected, and the piston and the cilinder chamber are visualy inspected as well did you also check the HT leads as Ken O'Neil sujested, i would take thing to the safe side and replace them and also check the ignition timing make sure is correct (to rule out problems in that area)

eh... mind telling me why did you change the head gasket? i ask because maybe you have a problem with your pistons, maybe they dont seal correctly, also i read that if you always have head gasket problems then is not the head gasked, but a cracked piston...

see, that's the thing, skoda "tappets" (sorry is just a diferent name from what whe call it here) are what i call "pleasant loud", if you cannot hear them they're clearances is none or too little, if you can hear them after full warm up loudly, then the clearance is too wide or too much... if you set them with the rule of nine (#1 fully open, check #8 {1+8=9}) you need to set them to 0.20mm (8 thou) all arround, if you see that the pushrod is not black (aluminium alloy) set that one (intake) to 0.25mm (10 thou), now you also have the option of setting the exhaust valves to 0.25mm (20 thou) as this is withing tolerance for the exhaust, but setting the intake valve too wide, or any to narrow will give you trouble now im going to asume that you guys did a full maintenance on the car... if valves (tappets) are ok, ignition timing is ok, and the car has had a full maintenance (filters oil, spark plugs) then the only thing to check(as far as i can figure) is fueling to lean (vacuum leaks, Lamda sensor, etc..) now mind you i am not a mechanic, just a joe that fiddles arround with mi car

good to know, thanks

i'm sorry, but that just screams out valve too tight or burned, that or a very, very lean mix

was it a big dent, maybe it measure oil but not the correct amount (due to the dent) paint might cause a plug, depending on the ammount did you re-use the oil that you took out, best bet is to buy 5 liters and a new filter when oil light goes on is a difference od 2 liters or more (as far as i know) so maybe yo where leaking oil and did not notice

a wrong spark gap would ony produce missfire (too wide) or hi HC (to narrow) im running mine at 1.10mm as a little test and the only bad thing i felt was a little hesitation at first, but thats it wrong spark plugs would not damage the alternator test you alternator to see if you get voltage, if you do, then the alternator is ok

if the whining get louder with revs you might have the same problem i had, the belt tensioner ball bering going out on you, if it is that, its only a 15min job and it very inexpensive

i'm asuming you have speaker conected to the radio (duh) if the radio is drawing .2 - .5 amps when not turned on then that means that one of the cable leading to the speaker is faulty or that the earth for the radio is faulty; if you have a security system installed one of your speakers might be serving as a glass break sensor... check that or i would check the radio itself first, no speakers, conected straight to the batery, to see if there is a fault or short, or the earth (negative) wire that goes to the radios is not good or mixed with a car system that has problems or is always on (like the inmovilizer) or The blue or/and blue-white wire coming out of the radio is not properly shielded, so you have a small leak check that now i'm not a radio technitian, but i've done all my instalations and friends instalations for a long time since the audio installers here charge a lot, and they (wich are supposed to be expert) do a realy ugly job most of the time, so what i'm telling you is out of past experience, your problem could be something else i haven encounter yet Best of luck mate

did you do maintenance, Stalling and loss of power sound to me like valve clearance and ignition problems or a vacuum leak, things a simple maintenance and inspection will cure in no time

what size tires do you have... the LXi doesn't have power steering, maybe the old GLXi did (mine is a GLX and does not have power steering) i've sat on 165 and 175 tires, and there is a diference in steering, not much, but i notice a resistance, wich i belive would be bigger if i fit 185 or 195 so maybe you have some 205 tires on it... if it's not the tire's width then maybe the dust cap on the steering arms are damaged, letting water in, making the system rusty (inside the steeing linkage)