Cepheuz

check exhaust smoke while reving / accelerating, if you see white smoke then the fuel mix is too lean, also put your hand in the muffler (as close as posible) air draft, if it feels lukewarm then is ok, if hotter you have bad fuel mix hard starting is also a symptom of lean fuel mix

not that dificult... tighten tapped adjusting screw until you feel resistance, then from that position loosen the screw 1/4 of a turn that will give you a .25mm (10thou) clearance needed for the intake valves (if they are alloy) and do the same for the others burt go back 1/5 of a turn that will give you a .20mm (8thou) clearance on the valve (iron pushrod) check the rockets for play, you should have little movement with no sound if you cant move them or you hear tapping re adjust.

update... the head is dead, there was a bold that was welded to the head with some tipe of glue that heat and lots of torque did not break, after driling the bold and removing the head we saw water damage, it was basicaly corroded throu. Here in the dominican republic we machine the head when is warped by heat, the head was aparently machine twice so it was not recomended to be fix a third time the intake and exhaust manifold did not have a gasked fitted on, only silicone paste, so it had an air leak and a exhaust leak the engine did not have a crank cover or side gasket eyther, just silicon paste. the chain on the engine was very, very, very, loose and the theeth where hooked throwing of cam and ignition timing so all engine seals and gasked are going to be new, new head with polished ports an valve, the hole engine is going to be cleaned to remove water and oil gunk mayo an silicon residue and who knows what else ,

tomorrow im taking the head off, replacing all gaskets and changing the timing chain and sproket as well as refitting valve seals polishing the valves i was wondering if its a good idea to change the compression ratio of the car by skimming the head a little, this is why; it seems the only diference between the 135 and the 136 engine is the compression ratio but the 136 guives more power and better FE head gasket is going to be worked on (cleanded valve re-seatted and seals changed) so why not "tune it" a little and get better performance but experience trumps ignorance, so please, any concernes while doing this things or problems i may encounter, and if its ok to skim the head, how much should i take of to set the CR @ 9.5:1 (witch produces more torque and power but requiers 95 RON instead of the 91 RON i use now) do i need to do work on the pistons? (seals are going to be checked and i may fit new seals) i realy will apreciate your imput on do / dont and specific measures

If you hear in the engine the chain (the noise will seem to come from below) there's your problem if you hear in the engine the valves or you dont at all (It feel like a type writer but loud from above) then the valves are to loose or to tight if the car runs fine but feels heavy is a rich mix (exhaust will be chacoal black) if the car runs fine but feels light is a lean mix (exhaust will have water coming out) do check plugs heat range and spark color, if it has a canister coil check wires and spark (should be loud, crisp and bright) do a complete maintenances on the engine (filters, fluids, valve gap, timing, cleaning, etc..) it can give you back the wasted F.E.

i think i found the problem to my very low FE the timing chain is very loose, posibly even with a lot of retarded timing, retarded timing on the valve guives low FE a no torque i have a air gap where the manifold meets the engine, old seals i guess, wich is guiving me a lean mix, when i adjust the carb to be ok at idle i get almost ok mix at idle and rich mix above idle.... solution fit timing chanin kit and adjust valve timing to the correct advance remove manifold and fit new seals will take the time to pop the head and fit a new gasket and to clean out everything will post in a month

here are some ideas out of the top of my head (im not a mechanic and i drive a Carb felicia so take it with a grain of salt) fueling 1st. Thermostat = if the thermostat is dogy and the computer is not reading " cold " the fuel would not be adjusted to a cold start and it will not turn over from cold 2nd. crank sensor = if the crank sensor is faulty it will not send fuel through the injector and the car will not start Spark remove coil pack and spark plugs, refit spark plugs on coil pack without being atached to the engine (but grounded) and check for spark size and color (should look fat and bluish), check battery to ensure enoughf charge is sent to the coilpack wile started is turning (check volts on battery terminal while turning engine, should not fall bellow 13volt) hope it helps dude

checked tyhe ignition switch, disconected it and the car still sayed on, i took of the fuse box, disasembled it and cleaned it out, now everything is working perfect (but im not sure if i wired the switch ok

i miselft put in a new stereo (new to the car, but is a realy old Aiwa) and was looking for a way to connect it to the ignition switch. In the ignition switch found a empty conector put it there and the radio stayed on after pulling the key out, so i have to re-wire the thing :S... any one know how to wire the switch ?

indeed, relay seems to be an idea, but i took out all the relays 1 by 1 and the car did not shut down, so im gessing is the ignition swtich, but will verify latter on car will be fix tomorrow, all i need is to buy the part

yes, it quite hy for a fely, now im getting 38 - 42 km/g (9.9- 9L/100Km or 29-32MPG imp) but i haven´t update my fueling for a long time, i only do town driving, on one of the most congested citys in the caribbean, i know when i change the timing chain and get a decent blue spark (now is orange) i´ll get a little better F.E. When you turn on the car it takes a long time to tick over, so it has to crank for a while, this is dued to a little leak in the carburetor´s power diapham that lowers the Fuel level inside the carburetor witch then has to refill to have normal operation, the diafram will be changed next monday. i have the Autodata CD 3, but i dont have the haynes manual

Hi TeflonTom, it´s been a long time. Yes, disconecting the battery an re conecting it does not change the situation, also ther are times when turning of the ignition does turn off the car, but only briefly, then the it turns On Again (except the engine ofcourse cus it doesnt crank the starter)

i´ve been having a lot of battery problems recently, due to the fact that my battery was in need of replacing and i didnt have the money to do it right away, the car has been hard to start and requierd a couple of push but in the end it started. now i got a new battery turn the car on (still hard to start) and when i turned the ignition switch the engine (and instruments) remained on. posible causes (that come to mind) are; maybe the dead battery shorted something maybe the ignition switch got damaged cus of the hard to start problem maybe the fuse box got damaged to to water leaking due to corrosion under the battery leaking water Any ideas will be greatly apreciated

i was doing regular maintenance on my car an decided to clean out the carburetor. i have always sufer from shaky idle (no so bad) and a lag in aceleration, also my car was not mixing fuel right, tail pipe and plugs told me it was running to rich and the feel of the car told me i was running to lean. #1, if your carb base is plastik (black) clean it out well and make sure is air tight, i did it with a paste mechanics use to fit gaskets. #2, the diafram on the side of the carb is driven by a spring and vacuum, make sure the spring is not too tight and that the vacuum path is as clean as posible, also if the two seals look beat, replace them. (they cost nothing) #3, Carb engines run on a mix of arround 13:1 instead of stoli, if by opening the idle mix screw 4 full turns your engines does not run well, service your carb. #4, Spark is everything for FE on carb, even if mix is off, Timing and good spark will save your FE so make sure you have a Sharp BLUE spark #5, Always use a filter for gas and air, Jikov can get dirty quite fast #6, make sure secondary closes completly, even when close some air will pass, make it as minimum as posible #7, fit a Lambda sensor and a fuel mix Gauge (optionaly a vacuum gauge) by doing this your FE is going to go up the roof Happy New Year

about the fuel gauge... the fuel gauge is feed by two positives cables and one negative, it will always display diferent reading when turning corners etc.., if you place a capasitor on the line it would alter the middle level reading on the gauge about the speedo, you can always remove the speedo cable check it, re-grease it and see if it cures the illness, (i had the same illnes as you, when i changed the transmission oil to the correct 75W90 the speedo displayed good reading at all speed)

well, i know that those plugs are runing rich, but just that, running rich and a little hot, if you can give us the reading after the oil change and the normal reading i think whe may come up with new ideas, and i agree big time, go to a diferent garage for testing and always wait until full warm up for the readings

thank you, not only did you explained it perfectly but i guess now some people will apreciated how thermaldinamics play a role in all engine parts and funtions

my valve seals are leaking oil, mine are oiled due to that, but not for long (in a month they´ll be changed)

is 0.20mm or 8thou, for all valve, measure stone cold, if you have aloy pushrod on the intake then those you will ne to set at 0.25mm or 10thou (Autodata CD3, Vivid Workshop Manual, and my 1,000 setting)

when its oil instead of Over Fueling the spark plug does´nt have that consistency, as you can tell from the pic the dark ring is not even, plus if it where oil it would show on the ceramic no matter the heat range of the plug. i dont have testing equipment or ODBII fault code reading due to my car being a carb, and i relied on vacuum and plug reading to fix all of my feli´s problem. another sign of over advance timing on a car is that the exhaust gases are too cold and that the car´s engine sounds a little like a VW Beatle engine (poping instead of puffing) now this can be cure with redicing the exhaust valve´s clearance, leading to worst emission problems thats why i asked him to check his valve.

Good one,

picture are ok for reading, unless you want to read the entire ceramic witch is needed if the plugs are ok and you want to check the jetting on all RPMs i forgot to mention, #3 and 4 look like they weren´t tighnen good (all thread dirty) #1 has 3 thread discolored (exelent Heat range) so what are the plug serial, im tempted to buy those same plugs for my car on my next services (witch i´ll do next moth) also the marking on those plugs are diferent, witch tell me you have a odd load, maybe is as simple as a under inflated tyre on your right side. but did you check the valve clearances?, remember all valve are 0.20mm (8 thou) unless you have alloy push rods, common on intake valves, those would be 0.25mm (10 thou) i wanted to ask, if its posible for you to take vacuum readings on a non ported manifold vacuum. these are the measurement i want vacuum @ idle 800-1200 rpm vacuum @ 3500 rpm max and min vacuum readings when you bleep the throttle vacuum reading while stating the engine (ignition system disconected) all readings with a warm engine. the last reading is to rule out worn piston ring, the first is to confirm advance timing, the second is to confirm engine health and base torque values and the tird to check your valve timing. remember that how the needle moves is as important(or more) as the readings you get sorry if i´m troubling you, i´m just shooting in the dark, cus you are correct, thats a beautifull car to be spraping. and those tyre look good on it. (cus they fill the ark perfect) and i can tell that you do havea dizzy cus of the spark cables and the fact that you said that you replace the coil) If you want a way to test emisions on a car without the sensors warm the engine and put your hand on the exhaust path, air should be luke warm (it should feel good) but not hot or burn, and on the morning or cold days you should see vapor coming out (even water) after putting your hand on the exhaust path smell it, if it smells like acid, oil or like petrol is bad, it should have no disernable smell, i used to put my nose on the exhaust path cus as a kid i used to love the smell and the warm feeling in my face and look at the water coming out(yes, that souds crazy but non harmfull unless you get too close)

excuse me, how did you come to the conclusion that they look lean? i ask, because those plug SHOW sings of Rich mix (base ring black, center electrode black) if your arriving to that conclusion because of the white ceramic, or the fact that the ground strap is ash white, those are signs of advance timing and high combustion chamber heat due to the advance timing. i recomend all the readers and the owner to read all the pages he can on spark plug reading, an informed desicion would be best. apart from that, i´m butting myself out, to avoid a feud.

mmm, rich mix is saving you from predetonation, but the first thing is to set ignition timing to the correct degree, also you said that you change the ignition coil so that means that your ignition system is similar to mine, check the ignition coil for defect using tester (you can get the ohms online, but i will post them as soon as i can) also check the cable that goes from the coil to the dizzy and change the ignition module to see if that helps (i had a lot of trouble with mine until i changed it) Best of luck

TBH i only did light reading on this and other pages, so i might have them confused, but if my reading vs you experience, hands down experience wins, but is good to find out and make sure, dont you agree? anyway, good luck, i'll be doing the same thing on a couple of moth, also thinking about skiming to raise compression, but i dont know what would that gain exactly (more power, better FE, etc..) so i'll be doing my research