Cepheuz

you´ll notice a couple of tendency here 86´ Gray VW Golf MK2 00´ Gray Skoda Felicia GLX 02´ Gray Skoda Fabia Classic

i managed to figure out this much brown = negative (ground) small brown w red stripe = ACC Red = front right speaker positive red / brown = front right speaker negative light blue = front left positive light blue / brown = front left negative i´m still missing two black / blue wires, and three small wires (gray, white/pink, white blue)

hi guys, little bit of help needed i´m installing my pioneer DEH-3000ib on my new(to me) fabia and the socket for the radio has been cut off, only thing left is the wires, and i need to know witch is witch i now the brownd is earth (ground) but apart from that, i have no clue, i need to know to install the socket for my radio. thanks in advance

same thing here, on of the engine supports lost the bolt (the one in the transmission) and the person that had the car ran it with a lot of engine play, it destroyed the CV joint and muffler flex joint

im going to buy a fabia today that has that same problem, mechanics said that worst case senario trans went, other posible problem is the diferential has to be replace (is not call diferential but to me it does the same thing) where the wheels connect to the trans he sais that is removable, dint think it could be the clutch assembly, but sure hope so

i sold my silver felicia yesterday, i´m thinking of buying a fabia, though i´m still up for ideas woke up today and im a bit nostalgic, but looking foward to a new Era

realy dont think that your battery is the problem, that is, if its realy new (and not been sitting in the shell for a long time) probably you have the radio wire wrong (not to turn of with the ignition, or something else

it actualy comes of very easy from the vacuum booster, there is also a middle conector thing that you can separate, or remove the flanger from the manifold. that happend to me, but after removing the servo itself and servicing it (and noticing there were no leakes) i opte do tune the mix a bit les lean

1st check temp sender + thermostat if you have no power might be a lot of fuel and little timing (if the exhaust glows red, most probable cause) 2nd check vave clearance to much (above 0.20mm or 8 thou) will degrade power (i use .23 all arround for economy reasons but has great power) 3rd check coil + wires + plug gap a coil can go bad very quick and it will fire but will not give power, same with cables or anything that will give you a weak spark 4th check timing advance 2º +/- 2º btdc timing of 0 or 2 with unleaded can feel weak (basic timing in my car is 4º btdc using 91RON gas) but to much timing (over 6º) can make thew car weak(feeling like the clutch is slipping) 5th check cilinder presure loose plugs dirt on valves or worn rings will make the car feel very, very punny 6th check vacuum leaks this is actualy the first thing you need to do, servo hose and worn gaskets are most problable causes IMHO please remove a plug and send the pic of the firing end after a 4min run and i´ll let you know what i find best regards

so how is the car running now ?

i installed 5 3/4" speakers all arround in the back i made a neat perfect circle glued a wooden spacer, applyed 2 sided tape (to seal the rim and tighnen the speakers well, i used 60watts speakers and ran the with the radio (cutting base) with a set of tweeters, and my sound is crispt and no distortion at full volume

sounds to me like the wheels are not balanced, i cant go over 55 without the car shaking a lot if i dont balance the wheels

The Carburetor version of the felicia IS a Felicia that was sold in export that was back fitted with a carb instead of injetion to make it cheaper. they (in asembly) did not fit sensors, computers or anything else related to ijection but, the cars for export came from the same line so they did have the ODBII port and im gessing most of the cabling is there too.

i got a new radio for my felli Pioneer DEH-3000ib i wanted to run mid range speaker + tweeters of the radio and have a separate woofer, so i got a 80 watts ( 40 amp p.m.o.p. x 2 )amp i wired the amp straigt to the battery + terminal with a 8 gauge wire and grounded it in the chasis close in the trunck, ran a 12 gauge wire to the headunit and for the head unit i used the original wiring except for the ignition i bridget it to the On so the radio turns off when i shut the engine off, ben running with it for a forthnight and no battery drain the instalation book that came with the stereo did warm me that batery drain may occur if not wired to the ignition so i'm quite glad that i wired the hadunit + amp with no battery drain (couple of post have complaint about drain after fitting stereo, and some blame amp)

i dont have a cat and i drive a carb felicia, so my tail pipe "Matches"my plugs most of the time, plus the rain and the puddles washes the soot sometimes

adjusting the ignition to the fastest idle will give you 2-4 degrees advance, (0-2 + 2-4 = 2-6 initial ignition advance) that will give you a vacuum reading of 22 and will knock on load / acceleration

This is for carb model, but may apply to others. if you have no torque, poor responce from accelerator, and you spark plugs, and tail pipe are black but at the same time you have no hp, then you have a bad spark... spark should be vibrant (a good crack sound) and strong, most of the time, a defective ignition module is the culprit (the coil gets realy hot and fail after a short period of time) i had this problem and the way i fixed it was chaging the coil and the ignition module, installed a ballast resistor (coil did not have one internaly) and changed all the cables (aso sometimes reason why coil gets hot) while you are at ti, check distributor, if there is play (doent go back all the way on its own) you have to service it or change it, probably worned out or a spring got loose, that will cause poor drivability dont under estimate the propper gapping of all the plugs, indexing i havent tryed it but gapping is a must. at the end, check timing and drive @ 3000 rpm 3rd. gear for 4 min on a flat street, take out your plugs, should be ok, if not, adjust idle mix screw, should be 4 (+/- 1/2) turns out and bleeping the accelerator should give you a crisp, sharp responce. if not and you checked the entire ignition system (grounds, distributor, cables, coil, etc..) and you ARE getting a strong spark (blueish, thick, loud spark) remove carb, service it full you might have a blown power valve (leaking fuel at cruse, you compensate with mix crew and when accelerating or load you feel no responce) or you going fro rich to lean (clogged main) on acceleration

for a good engine, nothing but a little terracota like dust (or something that looks like rust) that you can whipe away for a engine thats using too much gas, soot black

thanks, i went ahead and set fast idle to 2300rpm, after doing this (and setting choke valve gap correclty) i cooled the engine for 4 hours, it started @ arround 2000rpm, then went to 1500rpm and after a while it settle to 900-950rpm (my normal idle) so all is good, i know idle should be lower, but it shakes and with this setting is smooth.

doing that my engine would knock or ping a lot, even with 95 RON gas, plug it feels like the clutch is slipering (but is not, just feels like that) i've set the ignition timing, dwell and point gap, all acording to stock data, just need the fast idle, is not a matter of adjusting the engine, but tuning the carb stock.

yes, i know there is no adjustment for the MPI, witch would give me a good reference to where my Carb model should be at warm up, that is why i asked what is the fast idle speed... i know the idle speed is 850rpm, i alredy set it, and i have Autodata CD2 and Vivid Workshop manual, plus Haines Carb manual, but none of them give me the Fast idle for my car. all i have found ithe the hayne for forman 135 witch would be 2300 rpm, i think this is a little too much, and wanted to compair it with the MPI fast idle. so please, tell me at what rpm is you engine when you first start it on the mornings, sorry to bother, without a 5 gas exaust analyser and without a oxigen sensor is har to tune a carb for all the rpm rage.

what is the fast idle (rpms at cold startup) and idle speed for a skoda felicia 1.3 (carb, and MPI) wanted to adjust mine, but have no point of reference

i just changed the shoes on my drum brakes, and i need to change the disk and the right shoes on my front and found a `couple of problems but easy to solve; the brake are auto adjusting, but the spring doesnt have the strenght to move the pin due to dust rust and etc... i just cleaned everything and greased the pin the brake have a lot of travel before meeting the pads and the spring inside is not strong enough to keep them together before pumping so i streched the pring a little if misture gets inside the brake cilinder i glues it with rust so i cleaned it and removed the rust, applied a fair amount of axel grease to lubricate and inside the dust cap to waterproof. i sanded the cilinder with mild sandpaper to remove the rim of rust (where the shoe doesnt meet) to make it easier to fit back and also to make a better contact suface (sometimes heat and presure make the brake crystalize and afterward they dont grip as much and they feel as they slide, making more heat and futher crystalizing watever residue is there) installed the drums back and operated the hand brake 4 to 6 times to let the pin settle and then i bleed the foot brake first the right wheel then the left making sure all the bubbles where out now brak travel is 1/2 or even less that it was before, handbrake grip is good and it only travel (with force) to the first mark, when i press the pedal in afraid of locking the wheel since a couple of times i felt like i was going to be lifted from my seat due to exesive braking (still have to get used to it) so do check the servo, and master cilinder, do check rear drum brakes make sure the little pistons are not locked with rust (meaning your using 2 instead of 4 wheels to brake) and do check youre using the correct braking fluid (DOT 4 if i´m not mistaking)

all internal combustion engines run at a temperature of 90degree, this is because of the thermal propeties that propel the engine (a cooler liquid mean that more BTU{energy} is wasted by absorcion of the liquid oposed to expansion i would personaly love to see vehicles run @ 100 degrees Water temperature and a longer stroke, they would give exelent F.E.

witch one is the correct sproket, the top one or the bottom one ? let me know cus i think i have the same problem and i want to sort it out while i have time to complaint where i bought the part edit. I just checked Autodata CD 3.18 and it seems that the bottom one is the correct one, please confirm