Aston_Bodger

It's still doing it, any ideas?, sensor, or injectors on way out? Trevor

I guess no one is experienced enough to answer?????

Hi Guys, I have a octavia VRS TDI and it's started to run rich,as in you can see unburnt diesel coming out of the exhaust and it smells rich too, i'm thinking injector gone down? as the injected quantity has gone up on one cylinder, could it be a seal gone? It's just ticked over to 88,000 miles and it's a PD BMN engine, if this helps. Any ideas? Trevor

Hi Guys, Got a Octavia VRS mk2 2007 TDI running rich, it's on 88,000 miles,any ideas what it might be?, scanned with VDCS and no fault codes on the engine, so I'm thinking mechanical,done the injected quantity and shows some interesting results (see attached), this got me thinking it's a dodgy injector?, or at best a dodgy seal. Just looking for advise from someone that knows the PD engine inside out so to speak. The -1.21,1.69,-0.15 and -0.33 are the injected quantity's, the 1289 is RPM. Trevor 212.84 1289 16.2 7.2 27 212.98 -1.21 1.69 -0.15 -0.33 213.12 11111111 2 14.342 27

@Gizmo Please could you remove me from the list, my cable has broken, and I don't want to spend money on a V2 cable just yet. Thank you. Aston_bodger AKA Trevor

Hi OllieVRS, It could be faulty, mine was genuine when I did mine about 8 years ago. Trevor

My money is on the brake booster, that's where the fluid's going, it's slowly filling that up. If you have no visible leaks, it's that. Trevor

I had mine from Fleabay 6-7 years ago and still going strong, even colour coded too, think they were £15 at the time, yes the lights and the bumper has to come off, on the inside you will see the marks where they cut the holes for the factory fit ones, that's what I used. Just be careful drilling the holes with the hole saw provided, use a block of wood for support, and you will be fine, power is took off the reverse light, earth is just a bolt somewhere, feeding the wires though to the box, I used a grommet already there, think it's for the tow bar?, plenty of sealant round that, it will be ok. Any problems give me a shout. Trevor

@OllieVRS, Is your cable genuine?, if so you should be able to change dealer code and country code, that's all mine needed. Hope this helps, Trevor AKA Aston Bodger

@Wynjones68Try Darkside developments, that's where mine come from. Hope this helps. Trevor

@DanielMcG I would drop Tech1e a PM, he knows these cars inside out, ex main dealer tech. Trevor

Hi, How old is the battery?, mine was playing up some time ago, got it on VDCS and speed sensor intermittent comes up, got a new one, not cheap main dealer part, changed battery and hey presto no more problems. Cos it runs on CAN BUS, it need a constant 12v supply and if it don't get it, it throw a hissy fit. Trevor

Hi Jack, Mine come on with the interior lights, and go off at the same time, not sure why they put it on a separate circuit, just extra work to me making the loom. Trevor

Hi Jack, That is a strange one, maybe something has gone wrong in the unit, and as a result it's throwing the fault code? At least the seats are working. Trevor

Hi Jack, This is a strange one to say the least, it could be the splices causing the problems, high resistance for example, are they soldered or crimped? Trevor

Hi Jack, That's a bit of a bugger, like I said I got mine from Eddie_NL, and it fit first time, without problems. Looks like that's the one, hopefully this one will work? Reason I said about the LED bulbs, they cause all sorts of problems, if fitted to CAN circuits, not sure about interior lights, but they do dim. Trevor

Hi Jack, Take the bulbs out and scan again, it could be the bulbs you are using?, just a thought, as mine are normal bulbs and never had that problem. Trevor

Hi Jack, There are a few on here like that (you know who you are), and it got so bad, in the end I just shut up and let them hang themselves. I know you are, you asked all the right questions, and I gave all the right answers and more. Should not make a difference, it's how it's programmed at the factory,as to what options are activated, mine left the factory with no cruise control, it has now had to tell the steering controller and engine ECU it has CC. Certain years need an extra wire mine had it already so plug and play. Sounds about right, an hour as most of the work was done. You will need to change the Can gateway because of battery drain, it don't shut the radio off, and the fan in the radio keeps running, it's somewhere under the dash only a little box, but it does a lot. Seems like I was the only one to help you? Trevor

Hi Jack, That's ok mate, I will help anybody, except them that think they know better and shoot me down, got no time for them folk. Then they PM me for help when it goes tits up. You will have update your sig now. I would do it again. If I had to. That's how Eddie_NL does them, I know cos I have one of his looms in for the foot well lights, front only, couldn't be bothered to fit rear when I found out you need this, and that and one of them . Mine did have that cluster, now it's got a maxidot, should not make any difference which cluster, it's the CECM that runs the show, so most likely that's a different spec, as in Low line, Mid line and High line, not sure what I got, but don't have the fault code. Thanks again, I did, that's why I told you stage by stage where to put the wires, and you saved a few quid too, not sure how much your mate would have charged? Trevor

Hi Jack, Great you had a go yourself, and got them working The foot well lights, I would have spliced into the fronts, then only 1 wire going to pin 7 not 2.......why do they do it this way???? Not sure about the fault, but that does shed some light on it, if they are working ok I would leave alone. Glad I was some assistance, that's what this forum should be about. Trevor

Hi Jack, Plug B pin 7 should be foot well lights, what have you got in there??, mine was free, nothing in it. Trevor

Hi Jack, Yes it's ok to use fuse 37, that is the correct one, just checked the fuses, in the manual that comes with the car, fuse 19 will be ok too, not sure what I used but it works. How's the rest of it going? Trevor

Hi Jack, That's something you don't want. You don't need to take that off, there is a red bar holding the plugs in place (remember that photo you sent me?, you can see it on that), push the bar to the right, and this will allow you to take the plugs out, wire up and put back, push the red bar back and your done. Earths, lump together, and find an earth bolt, easy. Heater control, remove middle plug and populate the 3 wires, following diagram I sent. Fuse box, refer to diagram power side is there output side not there this is the connections you have to make,there is a purple lock bar push to side and fit wires in relavant positions, fit fuses and you are done. I know it sounds easy, but take your time follow the diagrams and you will be fine, I had nobody to rely on just that diagram. If you get stuck, stop and let me know what you have done. My seat relay is on drivers side. Trevor

Hi Jack, Looking good, not sure where I put mine, it's been a long time since I did it, will have a look and tell you. They should look ok, mine are ok in the front. Trevor

Hi Jack, That's pretty good going, yeah the centre console can be a pig if you have never done one before. I'm sure it will be ok, mine worked first time, and the correct way round too, bonus, otherwise it's just a case of fetching the A/C controller out and switching the wires round. Yeah take your time and it will be ok. Yeah it is like a rats nest until you start feeding the wires where they are supposed to be going to, yeah them kufatec looms are rather good, well the MK5 is the chassis for the Octavia anyway, that's exactly how I would have run the wiring, the wiring is the easy bit,a part from coding it in. Trevor