Aston_Bodger

DO NOT CHANGE THE TENSIONER STUD. I did and the thing stripped the thread, and the valves hit the pistons, lucky it did not do the engine, still had the head off to make sure, despite sticking my bore scope down to have a look, it's well documented on "Honest John" that this happens after the 3-4 cambelt change you have been warned. Hope this helps, Trev

Usually the pump is a separate part to the ECU, well it is on the VRS anyway as I have replaced mine years ago when I had the three amigos (ABS,TCS and TPMS) lights when the G201 sensor went south. Hope this helps, Trev

Both Hatches, not seen an estate yet Trev

@Meggsxx, It's the best colour too (hides behind sofa) Trev

I own a Yellow VRS, had it since new ,and I have only seen 2 others on the roads. Trev

It's coming from the swirl flap rod, the bushes leak after a while, mine did, solution replace the inlet manifold, the newer ones have a metal plate covering the end of the rod, cos over time this rod digs in the cam belt cover, well it did on mine. Hope this helps, Trev

Come as standard on my VRS, and I'm happy with it so far, I did get a puncture felt it just before the light and beeps com on. Trev

With mine it was ok on the shut off code was 0.0 which shown it was working, but as far as getting cold nope, pressures were ok too, I don't think it moved hence why I suspected the N280 valve. Trev

Sorry for late reply. Right, all looms are LHD, there are no RHD looms. What I did was simple, on the original looms you get with car from new are LHD and RHD depending where you are in the world, The aftermarket loom is only LHD, so you need to do this, usually the controller is under the passenger side on RHD vehicles, mine is under the drivers side LHD spec, all you need to do is swap the seat looms over L to R, if that makes sense? I did not cut or extend any loom, the long part goes to the passenger side and the short part is the drivers side. Any problems let me know and I will assist. Trevor AKA Aston Bodger

Sounds like the dreaded N280 valve to me, seeing there are no fault codes, and the A/C still not working, mine went 3 years ago, new compressor and condenser. If you do get to someone with VDCS, have a look at the compressor shut off code, if that is 0.0 and still warm then it is the N280 valve. Hope this helps, Trevor AKA Aston Bodger