Stakeknife

Yup only mods, think the cold maybe made the dyno slightly exagerated?

yes mk1. think boost was about 16-17 psi. (just noticed the time, was afternoon but at 0 degrees felt like morning hehe).

One very cold Friday morning at RS Tuning. Mods: Blueflame turbo back exhaust (200cel cat), K&N panel filter and Forge DV. I think the weather helped a tad considering we were realisticly hoping for 220bhp. Temp level was fine i think and was even slightly low on boost. Hope the engine doesnt go pop.

I remember this happening on my mums Ford Ka when i was driving it. Noticed the stuff hanging out then one day the car wouldnt pull the skin off a rice pudding resulting in me limping to the service station then it dying on me. Think it cloggd the exhaust and drank all the coolant because that was stone dry. One new exhaust and coolant top up and it was off like a good un.

Do a bit of a check/todo list before getting it done to get the most out of your remap and make sure its all healthy. Pretty much same as p-torque.co.uk said and depends how much you want to spend, but i'd go for: Air filter Full exhaust ARB Forge dv Tyres depth ok brakes if need be (OEM are fine) Service kept up Diagnostic check and all levels are fine Whether you want to or already have these done its upto you. Id keep a bit of money aside incase anything goes wrong, as you never know, may just be a coincidence. Hope your happy with the remap though.

no dont think it is, ill try and get a sound clip up tomorrow if i can.

Hi all. Just bought and fitted a forge 007pa dv. Anyways are they supposed to sound different when cold just that for first few mins of driving it sounds like a clatter sound which is odd but onc needle moves a tad (ie few mins of driving) the normal sound comes back to how it should be. thanks.

Same with mine. Dont think its nothing to worry about, probably turbo lag as said before or just a flatspot which can be mapped out if need be.

got exhaust changed today (turbo back) and ran the code reader again. The cat has now passed the readiness test but not the sec air system. does this need changing as there are still no fault codes? Thanks.

i got this one: Professional Fault Code Reader for Volkswagen, Audi, Seat, Skoda (1996-2008) :: Gendan Automotive Products its great for what im going to use it for, will jus plug it every other week or so when i check oil, tyres etc.

Well i took car for a run, cleared the radio code and it hasnt come back on. Only things that fail now are cat and sec air syst, 02 sensor passed. Cat im not to bothered about as its getting changed this week but why isnt there a fault code come up if they dont work? The noise what i thought was the sec air sys is the charcoal/carbon cannister like you said mate, my mistake.

I like Kei Force 10's. similar to standard vrs wheels.

Hello, My hand held code reader arrived today and 1 code came up. 01317 Radio, control module in instrument cluster (J285). My naviation button barely works, it has to be pushed hard intothe radio to eg. change track. I assume this is the symptom. Maybe a new radio would help hehe. Secondly i ran a readiness check on the engine and these were the fails: Cat Sec air syst O2 sensor Is it because the car was cold (not even started) and that if i gave it a good run thn it should pass? btw my sec air sys is always ticking even after a journey. :S Thanks.

Car is booked in on friday for MOT and exhaust doing, do you think it will be best to get it changed then before it gets worse? and will i be able to do it myself with basic tools? thanks.

Sounds expensive, anyone know a rough price of these? I may leave it a little longer see how often it happens, car is fine apart from then.

Does anyone find their clutch pedal stuck down after your car has been sat for about a week. Twice now its happened to me, after leaving it in the garage for about 5 days when its been cold, i get in, pull car out of garage, then it nearly stalls because the clutch pedal is still stuck down. I had to pull it up with my foot then all is fine. Not sure if a clutch uses any fluid but it may have frozen or a return spring got stuck.

anyone? wonder if the software is slightly different or another company putting there name on it and putting the price up.

Powerflex are uprated and will probably last longer than the car. I bought some for my Ford focus and couldnt even get them on as theyhave little slack. But then again im not sure if they make them for the octavia. If you buy a standard one from Skoda it will probably last a good few years, i mean my car has done 45k and is 5years old and looks fine but im changing it anywy as a precaution.

Thankyou. I looked under the car and they dont look to bad but i will replace that one incase it does hang a little lower than i want. =-)

anyone know the part number for the rubber hanger, do powerflex do one also?

Think ill just go for a hand held reader, just so i can check faults and turn any warning lights off when i get exhaust fitted. Whats the difference between the sealey one mentioned and Professional Fault Code Reader for Volkswagen, Audi, Seat, Skoda (1996-2008) :: Gendan Automotive Products apart from the price difference. ie which one should i get hehe.

I dont mind spending, but what extra features does the can + hex have over the other? ie can i change more things in depth, it doesnt really say. I have a 2003 rs but the cheaper one says upto approx 2002, im guessing it would still work.

Im looking at buying VAG.com or a code reader atleast. After being directed onto gendan.co.uk i see they sell it for £260 posted. Im guessing its not a bad price and that it will work for a mk1 octy vrs. But whats the difference between that and the nice hand held device above it, i guess it does more things and comes singing and dancing? but will it really benifit me as id only really use it for fault codes and clearing them, (well for time being i guess). Thanks in advance James.

Ive just bought new pads all round for mine from Skoda and got them fitted else where, i guess they wouldnt replace them for free =-(

Wonder how much weight reduction the octy needs to shave a few tenths of a second off. Not sure if driving with a qauter of a tank or less really makes a difference but we are comparing accurate times here i suppose.