hawkeracing

Incidentally if you do go for a bigger carb I would be interested in the BDIC - particularly if it has the mount to attach it to the standard air box.

You're still on a Weber 30 then? You will definitely get benefits in performance terms going to a bigger carb. The easiest way to get more from 1289cc is to got for an 8 port set up though......as you will find when you get up towards 3 figures the head design just can't be made to breath well enough. I think the works team managed 107bhp supposedly but that was at very high revs and on engines that needed rebuilt every few thousand miles. I managed 101bhp with an SK6 cam, fuel injection and a professionally ported and flowed head. Omex are good I'm sure but it's expensive stuff for just a bit of ignition mapping and there are alternatives out there that do the same job for a lot less. You can even make your own mega-jolt very cheaply.

They're not a bad price. You know your MPG will drop through the floor though don't you? You would also still need to get somewhere to check the set up because their 130 jetting might not be exactly tailored to your engine.....and the engine won't be as smooth as on a normal downdraught......and will be noisier too. The question is - what are you looking to do with the car? Is the aim to have a run around for the road and classic car feel or are you trying to make it as fast as you possibly can? I have Snotty which is now so lairy it's actually not fun to be in for too long....but then it's mainly designed for motorsport and I seldom go far in him. I am about to start building a 'warm' road engine for Ekk and I am going for capacity (1340cc) and a head that breaths......everything else is staying standard, although I might add a warm cam and will need the carb re-jetting. I want Ekk to be a nippy classic touring kind of car that's fun on b-roads but capable of keeping up with modern traffic and doing A- road journeys in. If I stuck a 40 DCOE on it that would immediately be ruined! Your ignition idea is good....the standard dizzy's aren't great and will all be a bit ropey by the length of time they have existed! I started tuning Snotty with a Canems ignition ECU (super cheap for how good they are and easy to use).

This is what you should have -

120 blocks don't have room for very big liners so it's the head is probably not fitted with very big valves. What blocks and liners do you have to use? The tin rocker cover from a 120 should fit I think but you should be able to buy the proper cast item from CZ still I think.

No! I had to have a set of rockers modified to fit.....can't recall exactly what we did now but we had to splice 2 sets together. You should also have a special rocker cover to go with it

I have not much idea about the history....I got it from a man in Northern Ireland who had bought it in the 1990s and never used it. It needed a lot of work doing to bring it up to standard as the valves were all crap and the rocker gear was incomplete. What I can say is that it started life as a 120 version and had some serious work done on it to bring it up to full 130RS type spec by someone. The inlets are matched to my head with pins to fit them in place, but I believe for about 300eur you can still get something similar in CZ.

The bolt pattern is not the same MotorsportFinland....that's the point. If you have a cast iron 8 port head then you need a 130 block really (it will work on a 120 as long as you have matched chambers and valves)

You can't use a 136 block with the iron head - needs to be a 120 or 130. You also need to fit studs instead of head bolts on the inlet/exhaust side of the block....which it's virtually impossible to torque down as they sit in a gallery! This is my head.....valves fill the chamber.. Massive ports too (old photo - it's cleaner these days!)

Use the 8 port iron head then....it will bolt straight onto the 130 block (torqueing up the studs on the inlet/exhaust side is a nightmare though!) and with 77mm liners you should be able to produce over 130 bhp with the right cam. Do you have matched inlet manifolds for it? What size valves does it have?

The Felicia kitcars in the mid 90s with the 136 engine and 1500cc put out 150bhp according to the spec sheets. I am re-building my engine to a slightly higher spec than it was at the moment and expect (hope!!!) the outcome to be at least 134bhp. Basically it's possible to get 100bhp per litre but not a lot more I don't think......time will tell though!

I also race my Estelle and the capacity limit is 1400cc for me. I run 1340cc - pistons are easily available from Engitec in CZ http://engitec.cz/shop/index.php I think they also do Fabia cranks modified to 130 engines. Not sure of the final capacity you get with the Fabia crank and 77mm pistons but it is close to 1500cc. In terms of outright power - are you allowed to run the later 136 engine? The 8 port head on one (or if...like me :sun: ....you can find an iron 8 port) is worth far more than extra capacity. To put it into context - I had 95bhp with 1289cc and 5 port head.....going up to 1340cc got me to 101bhp.....throwing in the iron 8 port head (works spec one) took me to 129bhp with exactly the same cam and bottom end.

Ok....it was the mentioning of the wet liner engine, as though increasing the bore was somehow risky. I would take a wild guess at 1400cc or possibly 1500cc being the class because you'd have to be mental if you were aiming at anything higher with the engine. It's possible with the Favorit crank and the 77mm liner conversion to get to virtually 1500cc as they did in the Felicia kitcars in the 1990s. Places in CZ advertise modification of the Fabia crank to fit the 130 and 136 engines.

You say that as if it's a warning Ken?

You can fit the Fabia crank if you have a later 130 engine but you need to modify a few bits.....and the crank is massively heavy. Easiest way is to get in touch with Speedpro.cz and get 77mm liners and pistons - takes 1289cc to 1340cc with no down side.

In terms of engine tuning.....can I say that a lot of people forget the dizzy.....it would be well worth going fro something like 123 ignition (its expensive though) or getting the dizzy rebuilt and set with a decent advance curve.

Paul is a one man band with a real job as well but he does get there- you just need to give him a nudge sometimes. If you aren't on the Skoda OC Facebook page then you should join....many more RWD people over there with parts and knowledge

Billie897 - none of the 130/120 stuff is going to be useable as they run iron 5 port engines.....except possibly the carb but it would probably need re-jetting. Have you contacted Skoparts Int or got in touch with the Skoda OC - Briskoda is not great for the old rear engined cars.

Yes, I know the car and have sat it in. Depends on how original you want to keep it really.....in terms of getting more power you could add a cam, have some porting/gas flowing work done on the head and get the dizzy overhauled and uprated - set of lowering springs.....probably about the budget blown when you factor in the brake upgrades. Of course cc's are always going to add more power and you could get a 130 engine and add the big piston/lner conversion to take it out to 1340cc....ditch the dizzy for wasted spark igntion. One of the big limitations of the car is the fact the radiator does sit next to the engine which makes changing to a later 8 port engine running bike carbs or twin 40s nigh on impossible. The s series also has a steering box as opposed to a rack which limits the handling abilities a bit - especially one thats nearly 40 years old (although Boroskoda has a brand new on for sale...which might be worth looking at). I can't remember - is the exhaust a full system including manifold? If not then get a manifold made.....it will make a big difference.

Depends on how fast you want to go! I've outlined your brake upgrade needs already - engine wise its just standard stuff for any old 4 cylinder - head work, exhaust, carb, cam....but the S series has a small capacity and also the issue of the radiator being in the back so big power isn't possible with that set up. Suspension wise you can get lowering springs and Gaz/Spax/Avo shocks still - they will be listed as Estelle but they fit....although not springs from a 130/Rapid as those models had a semi trailling rear set up with different springs (but not shocks). How big is your budget and how much do you want to spend! I have spent over £10k of my original £3k budget now :p

Values all depend on the market place - at the moment there are several for sale so it's not as high as it was, but a red 120 L5 went for £1800 a few months back. A 130 is worth a tiny bit more but a lot of it depends on condition. Common problems - rusty rear arches, rusty front wings, rusty sills, rear seat material rotting through, blown head gaskets or general cooling system maladies (radiator in front engine in back = lots of pipes to fur up and fail). There are others but by and large they are reliable cars if maintained and with the 5 speed box make quite good day to day transport. I have been using my 120 L5 for several weeks without major issues as we have been sorting out buying new cars. The 130GL is quite a rare Estelle and was built on a different production line to most Estelles and has things like the dash out of a Rapid coupe.....and the worst rust issues you will find on any Estelle. The urban myth used to be that they were more rusty because they were built from left over motorsport shells that were made from thinner metal to save weight......but I think it is just a myth. As Dave says - we need photos!

They were only Skoda shaped cars.....and I have no idea what or who Wendy wool is! Incidentally there are rear disc conversions available in CZ but they are competition only ones that covert the rears to a set of front discs and calipers with no handbrake facility.

I race my Estelle and still have the drums fitted...I also have a 129bhp race engine and significantly less weight than standard. The brakes on my car were described by a test driver on a magazine shoot as amongst the best he had tried. I do have 4 pots from a Rapid/130 fitted but in reality the set ups fierce braking is based on - braided hoses, black diamond drilled and grooved discs, uprated rear shoes (from Speedpro CZ) and Ferodo DS2500 pads. You can buy all of those items for the 2 pot brake set up still - you cant get the black diamond discs for 4 pots anymore....but the 4 pots are not that much better than the 2 pots anyway......they have 4 small pots and the brake discs are smaller anyway. The DS 2500 pads are the most expensive item at about £150 but by god they are awesome. You won't need anything else if you have a healthy braking system with a good master cylinder fitted, clean dot 4 fluid and good lines - and the list of bolt on stuff above. You will go through the screen if you stamp on the brakes too hard!

Buy a universal cable from ebay. Measure the length to make sure you have the right length for your set up though. The cable inner attaches to the pedal extension in the tunnel in the middle of the car next to the pedal, the outer just a bit further back - there should be an inspection panel next to it.

This is Briskoda.....it's mostly modern stuff. You need - https://www.facebook.com/groups/skodaownersclub/?fref=ts