theo_k

havent got a clue, I thought they would make a tan one but I guess I am wrong... thanks for letting me know though

Correct. That one yes

Mani needs to be replaced anyway, even if the issue is only with the coils

Leeboy I 'd be going for an aftermarket one, I still remember the smile I had on my face when I had it in 3rd after 3500rpm. No way I am putting on a factory one but thanks for letting me know Liverpool-lad first things first. I d be doing the mani then the R8s ;)

Did you manage to do everything at the end? Any comments guides and part numbers that you promised?

no fault codes whatsoever part from the misfires. What I did was, I took out the blue(hard) spring and replaced it with the green(soft) one in the 007 DV, I undid the wastegate a little so the screws are back in their original position, and finally I decreases the boost, timing and fuel with SPS3. I went for a ride and right away the car was behaving a lot better, it does that rough thing only under heavy acceleration. Therefore i tend to believe I need to replace the exhaust manifold - as weird as it sounds. But I guess what the fella said above makes absolute sense where regarding the o2 sensor. Any other thoughts?

exhaust manifold indeed has soot, I can see it clearly. You might be right there actually, it did not occur to me regarding the o2 sensor reading less. I guess a test would be to fully un-tighten the wastegate, drop in a green spring into the 007 and see if at least the misfires are happening at higher rpm even if that shifts 500rpm it would be enough. spark plugs the ones I took out were absolutely fine, I checked against several guides in google. The new ones went in but still same issue. Re vacuum hose, I just replaced a split one but the issue was happening a long time before that. The rest of them dont seem to be split or broken as I had an issue 3 years ago and replaced one that was ripped. if there is a rip somewhere big enough to let a lot of air out I believe I would hear it whistling - as I did with the one I replaced I tend to believe it is the mani as back in September I came back from the lake district, on the way back I was going quite fast (embarrassed to say how fast) for over an hour. Shortly after that trip I began seeing those issues... The only thing I want to make sure is there is nothing wrong with the wiring of the coil packs. Not sure where all these wires end up, I think they go somewhere behind the gear cables...

I had swap 1 with 3 but nothing changed, I ll swap 1-2 and 3-4 to see if that changes anything I have checked the cables etc but nothing visible... I ll check again

hi mate, the headliner at the back is held with three pieces. Can you tell me what color is the middle piece? The headliner gets tucked in under those pieces. If that doesnt make any sense, I will send you a picture tomorrow. If the middle piece is beige/tan, then I want it.

in case someone says injectors, I exchanged injector from cylinder 1 with cylinder 3, the car is still misfiring on 3 or 2, depending on the mood. Everytime I logged the car it is always cyl2 or cyl3 that keeps misfiring

hey guys, my 1.8T every time I drive it cold or hot, as soon as it gets over 3000rpm it misfires really badly in any gear, to the point the car refuses to accelerate and I have to upshift. I did check the compression of the cylinders and it read over 200psi, so thats not the issue either. The coil packs I doubt because from previous burned coil packs I would expect one of them at least to go off completely and the car idles rough, that is not the case though. The other info - which I doubt is the issue - is the exhaust manifold that has two huge cracks. The injectors again I doubt because I would expect under heavy load if it is rough at 1st gear and 3000rpm I would expect to go rough on 2nd at 2500rpm Have I changed anything lately to the car? No. I did take the starter out, cleaned it and put it back on. Not sure if there is another grounding point for the coil pack apart from the one right next to the coilpacks. Any thoughts?

you mean fuse box inside the cabin, that I completely forgot. And then the wiring like you said. In my view, I must have dislocated something by accident or even cut a wire that it was on its way out. Will do and report back if it gets resolved like that.

in the blue is the blanket I was talking about. The orange is what I tried to put into that clip(it was already out). I did not manage to open it and just left it as you see it.

always me... I took the PCV valve out of the TIP. I blocked the hole on the TIP. I kept the PCV, attached a tube on it and that ends up outside in the wild that goes all the way down the driver's side control arm. In order to do that, I took out the maf, air filter, bov, intercooler pipe and N75 valve. So that I have freedom of moves. Other than that, right under the brake master cylinder, there was a piece of heat blanket from factory that was all over the place, so I pulled it very gently in case it would come out, it didnt. So I left it there. I put everything back to the car and when I turned the ignition on, right away the ABS stays on, and the brake red exclamation mark keeps flashing all the time and makes 3 beeps when I start it. Brake fluid is fine, doublechecked. MAF I replaced with another one and it did not make a difference. I tried to track the wiring all the way back to the black box in front of the near side and up until there it looks ok. N75 I took a picture before I took it off and then put it back on again perfectly fine. Checked the fuses on top of the battery, all fine. Plugged VAG-COM in, and the one code I cannot clear is 18057 - P1649 Powertrain Data Bus Missing Message from ABS Controller. The car drives, the brakes work. My guess is it is something electrical like a grounding or a cable I moved by accident somewhere, can someone help?

06A103213AF 06A103213BG The one in your link it might fit but you will have to block the hole right about the middle which is not being used in our engine codes (AUQ, AUM) Dont forget to buy a couple of jubilee clips

If i understand this correctly, I can remove the "hockey puck", block that entry on the tip. Then just install a catch can with a breather filter so the cranck case can have a bit of a cold air back when cooling down. Is that correct?

That was very helpful, thank you

hi guys, I wish to purchase the tool to test the cylinder compression but I am not sure which one I should go for. Do I just search for the one with 16mm? I have found one that contains 12mm, 14mm, 18mm and 20mm. Surely thats not going to work for us? any one bought one recently?

Used ones for now I am afraid.

straight to the point: all of the sudden the car started jerking around after 3000rpm and when I put my foot to the floor, I thought, thats easy, coil pack. Changed it in cylinder 1 but still the same behavior. If I am on 2nd gear and accelerate steadily up to 4500rpm, no problem, give it the beans - problem. Then thought I ll run vag-com block 15, 16. Cylinder 3 misfiring, changed coil, then still the same, after 3000rpm same issues. I thought ok, change the injectors from cylinder 4 to 3, went out to log same blocks with vag com and saw cylinder ...2 misfiring this time quite badly. any thoughts? wiring seems to be ok around injectors and coils, injectors are ok I guess, coil packs again I guess they are ok because from experience when they start going wrong at some point they completely give up and the car just jerks around endlessly, not in this case though. The one additional info I will give is that I found a lot of oil in the intercooler and it went all the way up to the inlet manifold. Any thoughts for my psycho-car?

hm, I did not go anywhere near that part. I guess I should just buy one for £5 and then grease it and change it. We are talking about the one in the pic below, right?

apart from the red in the picture everything else in the shaft was greased and I pulled back the fixed shaft at the very front of the casing and greased that too. The noise is much shorter but louder and sharp. Today it did not do it... lets see.

hey guys, I followed the DIY article for servicing the starter motor, took it all apart, greased pretty much everything but now I made it worse, it is actually screaming even worse. The only parts I did not grease was the main motor all around(in red in the picture I borrowed from my fellow greek who wrote the DIY), the one that goes round. However I did put grease at the very top of it and the very bottom too to the thing that looks like a gear. Put grease to the other housing that is white and it has gears in it. any thoughts where this noise come from and how I could tackle it?

resurrection. My dad has the same issue, his light comes on and he thinks is the cat. Same car, 1.4 65bhp. Nearly 120.000miles, anyone has an idea what else can be wrong?

is there a fender available? either side, I only want it for some experiments, let me know of the price, I can collect.