theo_k

it all begins with what you want from your car, if you add 10-15% more power than before but realistically you only use it once in a month for 2miles, then no you should not really upgrade anything else. If you are a track day enthusiast, then you definitely need to upgrade, afterall WRC cars that go on tarmac they lower the car, they put big AP Racing brakes etc, they probably know a couple of things better than the rest of us. On the other hand, if you are travelling on motorways at speeds like 120mp/h, having better brakes will mean you can stop sooner. Life and death as you have seen on youtube is only 50cm apart, so when you travel at speeds like this, stopping 50meters sooner than your original brake setup will definately help you stay alive if something goes wrong. My take on suspension: so I was travelling at 100-110mph and a drunk driver decided he wanted to come on the fast lane without reason or indicating, no other cars in the front of us. As I was overtaking him, he clipped my rear, the car went totaly sideways (like drifting), then on the return I did another big drift and then a couple of small ones and saved it. The road was a bit downhill too. The only reason the car did not rollover on the 2nd drift was purely because I had brand new KW Var2 installed. If I had the standard AUM suspension, I dont think I would make it out alive. my car is only 220bhp, has 4pot calipers in the front, and is about to have F+R ARB and only then will consider upgrading the power even more. If you hear someone wanting to upgrade their brakes or suspension, please dont stop them.

little far from you mate, London.

I honestly dont know... probably not

I have the pin but not the spring. I must have lost it somewhere... I will PM you my details

I bled the brakes by foot only and started from the furthest wheel. if I pump the pedal then it does not sink, it stays at the top. The red staff were driven really hard in a 12 mile country road with very sharp corners, they were really hot after 2min, thats why I said it is not them. I have no idea about pressure bleed, will have a look and probably go for it too. Is this something any garage can do?

I am providing the ashtray cover/door pictured, but not the actual ashtray behind it (the little black box)

fair enough but even when I am stopped I press the brake pedal with no particular force and the foot goes down progressively

the ABS pump needs to be bled with VAG COM? Never done this before nor have heard of it. Will definitely have a look. It never ran dry by the way I really dont think is the pads, I had 'Red Stuff' and now Textar, both driven really hard but no difference at all.

if the seals were duff it should leak? I had them bleed indeed, cannot remember the order but the mechanic at the time explained what the right order was and he did it like this. I think FL, FR then RL and then RR. The pedal has always been the same, even when I changed the brakes and having that placebo that is going to be so much better and firm...they didnt. I am really gutted, I remember ages ago I talked with a guy that he had installed 4pot from a 993 Turbo and the braking was mental. Surely the 996 pistons cannot be that much bigger from the 993

hi guys, it got me wondering, I have 4 pot in the front from 996 Turbo and 232 at the back (I have the 256 and will install them, dont shout). I have replaced the hoses too. When I brake, it feels a bit spongy. When I drive my mate's Scirocco 1.4TSI factory standard all the way, every time I brake I am about to exit the wind screen. Same thing when I drive my mate's Golf 4, 1.6, sport line or sport edition. Same behavior as above. All other cars I might drive, Octavias, Polos, Fabias, Hondas etc etc the brake is normal(spongy). So how can I make my brakes have the same effect with my mate's Scirocco or Golf 4? Or better, why do mine feel like sponge?

as I have never been to one, what does a session mean? How long is each session? Are the laps timed as well?

Hi guys, for sale I have a set of carbon-ish genuine Skoda trim for VRS Octavia mkI. This is in absolute superb condition, no scratches whatsoever. No ashtray provided. Removed from a RHD car £15 delivered - payment through Paypal or collection is wellcome SOLD I also have a pair of used head lights, they came off a left hand drive, they were on it since 2002 and done 90k miles, nothing is broken, they have a bad point, when I removed the eyebrows from them, they left some marks. They come without the black rubber bits on top. Other than that they are in good condition. I will also throw the kit from TURTLE WAX HEADLIGHT LENS RESTORER KIT, originally bought for £12, it comes new and unused but without a box. I was supposed to restore the lights and keep them but then I found two brand new ones genuine Skoda (from RHD car - mine is LHD) for under £100 so I bought them and did not bother with the used ones. I feel sorry to throw these away as there is nothing wrong with them. £10 these are collection only (I am basically selling the restorer kit and giving the lights away for free)

typical... the minute I buy a pair of calipers from ebay, the same minute someone is selling a full set with nicely painted calipers an hour away from my house...

hi mate, much appreciated, thanks for your help

hi guys, sorry about the title but I dont even know what is that called in greek either. Is where the screw goes to hold the bumper. I cannot screw anything anymore as that thing has worn off. Can someone tell me what is that called? How can I ask for it if I go to Skoda (or ebay)?

what about the gearbox?

if you decide you wanna post and VRSChrisphebe is not interested, please let me know

So I bought an original front head light but cannot find its pair. If I buy a Depo one, is it going to look all that different? out of 10 (10 being the original) what would you award Depo? i need your answers, I do not wish to look like **** in the meeting...

not at all. Make the wheels look straight, disconnect the battery, get a long straight screwdriver, behind the steering wheel are 2 holes, one on each side, you fiddle around with them with the screwdriver (better watch a couple of youtube videos before you try), they hold the airbag, then the airbag pops out, you disconect the wires - pretty standard, then unscrew the steering wheel and thats it really. What will take you time to master is how to release the airbag. However, after you remove the airbag and before removing the steering wheel make a couple of markings for when you will put it back on.

I bought one like yours from ebay for £10 (in bad shape), then bought alcantara £30-£35 100cmx140cm, then needles and green thread £10? (max), took off the leather, took measurements, watched a few youtube videos about stitching a steering wheel, then tried a few times, stitching could be a bit better, had I gone with black thread no one would tell I did it. I also did the gear stick and its 'bag' as well (cant remember what they call it) It ended up like this

my wild guess would be that you have not changed the bushes. If you going forward and then stop. Then just put it in reverse and you back up normally, do you hear it? If yes, then check the bushes

indeed

I found a company in Germany and they have been doing excellent work with a lot of cars, I only told them what disc and what calipers I am using and they just machined them for me just like that. They also included some weird bolts that they are super strong etc etc. Bottom line is, when I went to the mechanic to put these on, he grabbed the adaptors and was staring at them for a bit, he said these were the best adapters he has ever seen, he also told me/guessed how much they cost me without knowing anything and he was bang on. So I guess I got what I paid for ;-)

no because there was no point, I only wanted to see if the leds I connected in the VRS clocks all worked fine (which they did). I forgot to say that the airbag light came on with the VRS speedo, but obviously I ignored it as I thought that it came on because of the immobiliser or something... and I did not try to start the car either, just turned it on to see the leds

mine are 996.351.429.10 / 996.351.430.10 Dave And Lolli what kind of adapters are they? The adapters are specifficaly made for a speciffic pair of calipers and speciffic brake disc. Are you sure those adapters are for a FWD A3/Golf4/Octavia/Leon car? 4 pistons for our master cylinder is not bad, as long as you change the brake lines and the brake fluid of course. I went for an R32 disc because I did all the research and cost calculations and the R32 Zimmermann drilled disc cost me much less than any other option, (450 quid postage included brand new), at the time I rang VW Greece and they quoted me 1200euros!!! Discs and bells they quoted me around 1k area. Plus, the company that made the adapters asked me what discs and what calipers, and they just sent me the adapters 450 euros worth and they fitted perfectly well. If I wanted to go for a bell and a disc I couldnt trust someone in Greece to make me the adapters and they were really expensive on top. Mintex R32 discs 332x34 just 150 quid. When I received the disc and lifted it... I wish I knew better, but way too late to change my mind. However the car stops incredibly well, even after a 10mile curvy demanding road course.