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Peterj222

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Everything posted by Peterj222

  1. Its behind the vacuum reservoir, (the black plastic ball on the front of the block held by one hex bolt) I would also replace the thermostat housing as the little plastic tags get brittle and fall off and usually end up stuck in the thermostat....sticking it open!!
  2. Just to add to what the others have said, Remove whole driveshaft and do it on a bench, the genuine ones are thicker and stronger BUT so are the metal clips that hold them at both ends. You are supposed to use a special tool to crimp them tight. I had to borrow a tool (about 2 feet long) there's no way you can squeeze them tight with pliers or similar!
  3. You must match the FULL part number exactly as there are different versions, they look identical but if the part number is slightly different it WILL NOT work. If you cannot read the full number off your sticker then get it from a dealer parts department. I found this out the hard way!! PS. I have a brand new one sat here that is wrong for mine so if you find your part number drop me a line.
  4. if you look at the front seats on the side of the backrests opposite the seat belts it will have badges that say "Airbag" If you dont have these it wont matter as you can still replace them with seats with airbags, just not plug them in!!
  5. If you are handy with a mig/grinder ect. I suppose you can get anything to fit but easy straight swap is MK4 Platform cars (MK4 Golf, MK1 Leon, Audi A3 8L) you dont say what model you have got but if you've got airbags the airbag warning light will come on (MOT failure) if you dont use seats with airbags 3 door model seats fit but the back leaves a gap and you will have useless tilt handles on the front. Also remember that the door cards from all the above models DO NOT fit the Octavia so it will look a bit mix and match!!
  6. Just read my answer and its not really clear......if you imagine how the shelf sits with the socket facing you....once the shelf is hanging free the smaller bit with the socket then folds back so the whole shelf is flat and then you can flip it upside down and the back of the socket is accessible.. push in the lugs and pull it out from the wiring side (towards you but backwards from how it sits normally??) Hope this helps... wish I had taken photos when I changed my heater matrix as this was one of the easier bits!!!
  7. The shelf has got a couple of clips that pop open and where the obd socket is then folds backwards on itself and you can flip the whole lot upside down and you can then squeeze the lugs on the back of the socket and it pops out forward really easily. Thats the best way I can describe it I'm afraid.....once you work it out you'll kick yourself!!!
  8. If you take the plasic scuttle trim off and look to the right hand side of the pollen filter housing, right up the back is a small grommet. These tend to go hard and leak especially if the water is backing up a bit due to leaves obstructing the drainage channels. I took mine out cleaned it up and the metal around it and put it back with a nice coating of mastik round it and it seems to have done the trick (Fingers crossed)
  9. Nice work. I think I would be topping the coolant up whilst the bonnet is up as from this angle it looks a fair way below minimum!!
  10. Replacing the top mounts on the front of my diesel Elegance has raised the front up by about 10mm (The rubber donuts crush over time) may not be what you are trying to achieve...but I'm old and hate speed humps!!
  11. When you had the ECU sent away did you have the immobiliser deleted? Otherwise even if it would physically work on that engine it wont start as the ECU immobiliser has to match the chip in the key and the clocks.
  12. I had a 2002 110 ASV estate for a few years, it was great, only problem I had was the sticky vanes now and again. Was going to replace it with a mk2 F/L but ended up buying another MK1 with the PD130 ASZ engine, on a run it is even better on diesel than the ASV (probably due to the 6 speed box) and Ive had no problems as of yet. Incidently I still speak to the guy that bought my old car and its still going strong @ 250K miles!!!
  13. Also check how tight the pads are in the caliper as I had this problem before and after measuring with a micrometer found that the cheaper aftermarket pads are a few thou bigger than original pads, if they are tight then you would either need to grind a bit off or buy genuine pads.
  14. Quick update on mine in case anyone is interested: Parked in the drive last night with steering wheel at centre, looking from the rear down each side, the drivers front wheel looked pretty straight BUT the passenger side you could clearly see was turning left by a good few degrees. Adjusted the track rod end a few turns so as the passenger wheel looked straight like the other side and.....It doesnt swerve to the left anymore!!!! (albeit the steering wheel is no longer straight when driving in a straight line) So I am pretty sure mine was/is alignment issues. Can't beleive changing from worn out to cupra bushes put the tracking out that much!!?? Unless one of the old TC arms was slightly bent?? Anyhow I will now get it booked in for a proper 4 wheel alignment and hope thats the end of it.
  15. Its not torque steer if you give it some sick in low gears you dont really notice it, its worse at higher speeds, at say 70mph you only have to put your foot down a touch in top and it noticably veers hence why I cant leave it as it is because its the missus daily car! Also it didnt do it before when there was actually excessive play in the bushes (You could move the front wheels back and forth without even jacking it up) I would have expected it to be worse then??
  16. I think that getting it checked is going to have to be my next step as I cant leave it as it is. Just wondered if the OP had worked out why his was doing it as he said that getting it 4 wheel aligned had not fixed it? There is a place not far from me that are supposed to be really good.....but they do charge for the privilige!!
  17. I haven't done yet Wino... as far as I can see the only thing adjustable is the toe in/out on the track rod ends....and I havent touched these. The three bolts that secure the ball joints to the arms are just round holes so little / no adjustment to be had there??
  18. Did you get this sorted Jayramm? I now have exactly the same problem, but only AFTER fitting cupra console bushes and new arms and ball joints!! Was fine before execpt for clunking and noticable movement from the console bushes but now everything is nice and tight and new it pulls left when you put your foot down and you can noticably feel it go back to the right when you lift your foot off????
  19. I am just down the road in Wendover! Afraid I cant recommend anyone locally as Im not originally from round here and tend to do all of my own maintenance and repair work (when I have the time!!) Dont know if you have checked the fuses but looking through my owners manual fuses numbers 10,29 and 44 seem to be for diesel engine electronics and number 32 for diesel pump injection control?? worth a check before spending money!! Peter
  20. That will be the 110 then I doubt very much it would be the filter blocked although always worth draining it through the drain on the bottom in case youve got some water in the fuel (apparantly Tescos are well known for this!) Firstly though get it scanned for fault codes as I am wondering wether it is coincidence that you say it died as soon as you turned the cruise control on, so maybe electrical??? If it is the internals in the mechanical pump it may not show up as a fault but at least you have a starting point. A mate of mine owned a cab company and ran a fleet of vehicles with these engines and had no pump problems and they all went on to 300k plus miles no problems....but theres always the chance. Having said that even if it is the pump you can source a second hand one for peanuts now and they are not rocket science to change ... cam belt off is the worst bit. Also worth checking that you havent got a blockage somewhere between the tank and filter / filter and pump check none of the pipes have been kinked or damaged. Let me know how you get on... you cant be far from me as I am just outside of Aylesbury so give me a shout if you need any help. Peter PS once you get a bit of air in the system on these engines they are an absolute pig to start so if you drain the filter make sure you refill it with diesel before you try to start it or it will just turn over forever, although you can bleed them by backing off the nuts on top of the injectors and spinning it over (This will also give you an idea if you are getting any diesel up to the injectors)
  21. Hi Martin, Pretty sure the pre- PD engines with the mechanical rotary pumps did not have a lift pump in the tank so not likeley to be that! What engine code do you have in your car? The old pumps were pretty bullet proof unless used with contaminated diesel or bio fuel but some of them had electronic components that could fail. Peter
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