Peterj222

Its behind the vacuum reservoir, (the black plastic ball on the front of the block held by one hex bolt) I would also replace the thermostat housing as the little plastic tags get brittle and fall off and usually end up stuck in the thermostat....sticking it open!!

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Just to add to what the others have said, Remove whole driveshaft and do it on a bench, the genuine ones are thicker and stronger BUT so are the metal clips that hold them at both ends. You are supposed to use a special tool to crimp them tight. I had to borrow a tool (about 2 feet long) there's no way you can squeeze them tight with pliers or similar!

You must match the FULL part number exactly as there are different versions, they look identical but if the part number is slightly different it WILL NOT work. If you cannot read the full number off your sticker then get it from a dealer parts department. I found this out the hard way!! PS. I have a brand new one sat here that is wrong for mine so if you find your part number drop me a line.

if you look at the front seats on the side of the backrests opposite the seat belts it will have badges that say "Airbag" If you dont have these it wont matter as you can still replace them with seats with airbags, just not plug them in!!

If you are handy with a mig/grinder ect. I suppose you can get anything to fit but easy straight swap is MK4 Platform cars (MK4 Golf, MK1 Leon, Audi A3 8L) you dont say what model you have got but if you've got airbags the airbag warning light will come on (MOT failure) if you dont use seats with airbags 3 door model seats fit but the back leaves a gap and you will have useless tilt handles on the front. Also remember that the door cards from all the above models DO NOT fit the Octavia so it will look a bit mix and match!!

Just read my answer and its not really clear......if you imagine how the shelf sits with the socket facing you....once the shelf is hanging free the smaller bit with the socket then folds back so the whole shelf is flat and then you can flip it upside down and the back of the socket is accessible.. push in the lugs and pull it out from the wiring side (towards you but backwards from how it sits normally??) Hope this helps... wish I had taken photos when I changed my heater matrix as this was one of the easier bits!!!

The shelf has got a couple of clips that pop open and where the obd socket is then folds backwards on itself and you can flip the whole lot upside down and you can then squeeze the lugs on the back of the socket and it pops out forward really easily. Thats the best way I can describe it I'm afraid.....once you work it out you'll kick yourself!!!

If you take the plasic scuttle trim off and look to the right hand side of the pollen filter housing, right up the back is a small grommet. These tend to go hard and leak especially if the water is backing up a bit due to leaves obstructing the drainage channels. I took mine out cleaned it up and the metal around it and put it back with a nice coating of mastik round it and it seems to have done the trick (Fingers crossed)

Nice work. I think I would be topping the coolant up whilst the bonnet is up as from this angle it looks a fair way below minimum!!

Replacing the top mounts on the front of my diesel Elegance has raised the front up by about 10mm (The rubber donuts crush over time) may not be what you are trying to achieve...but I'm old and hate speed humps!!

When you had the ECU sent away did you have the immobiliser deleted? Otherwise even if it would physically work on that engine it wont start as the ECU immobiliser has to match the chip in the key and the clocks.

I had a 2002 110 ASV estate for a few years, it was great, only problem I had was the sticky vanes now and again. Was going to replace it with a mk2 F/L but ended up buying another MK1 with the PD130 ASZ engine, on a run it is even better on diesel than the ASV (probably due to the 6 speed box) and Ive had no problems as of yet. Incidently I still speak to the guy that bought my old car and its still going strong @ 250K miles!!!

Also check how tight the pads are in the caliper as I had this problem before and after measuring with a micrometer found that the cheaper aftermarket pads are a few thou bigger than original pads, if they are tight then you would either need to grind a bit off or buy genuine pads.