thebrasso

Cheers for the replys mate, sounds like mine need a few thousand miles putting on them! I'd like a set of winter tyres but at the minute have nowhere to keep a spare set of wheels.

Cheers for the reply, it's more with any sort of incline like getting onto the driveway I have to drive up an alleyway and it just scrabbles and won't get me up there. I'm hoping it's just that the tyres aren't scrubbed in properly.

I've tried searching but no luck! I've ran Falken 452's on the rear of my vrs for 20k with no problems, just replaced the fronts from some Goodyears to 452's 500 miles ago. I'm finding in the snow and ice, ordinary driving, they are fine however any sort of slow speed driving in ice or snow they seem absolutely toss, traction control lights up and I get nowhere no matter how careful I am. Could it be they are not quite worn in? Or has anybody had any problems themselves?

I've only been driving 7 years but here we go: P reg Nissan Micra 1.0 R reg Honda Civic 1.8 VTI W reg Ford Focus 1.8 04 reg Skoda Octavia VRS I still miss the Civic out of them, I like my Octavia but it doesn't seem that quick. Maybe a remap and some suspension upgrades will change that!

I recently had a front bearing changed, and although the rear wheels do not turn this should still apply. When you negotiate a bend in the road, if it is to the left the cornering forces will push towards the drivers side of your car. And vice versa with a right hand bend the force should be applied to the passenger side of your car. For me this was noticeable, but try to listen if it is worse on one side or the other.

In the warmer weather I was averaging 39mpg on my 35 mile commute, but now it is a fair bit colder, I'm averaging around 34mpg. However with the cold weather as has been said, it will drop economy. I'm not complaining at all, I get the same or often better economy than my W reg 1.8 Focus except the VRS isn't dog slow!

I run FK 452's, cheapest is to order them from camskill and go to a tyre fitting place even a local place. I went to National Tyre's and with ordering the tyres and paying the fitting and disposal of old tyres it cost £380 at most. I would have to dig out the receipts.

Thanks for the replies. I'd be looking at getting an upgraded front anti roll bar and a rear one, although considering I'm not intending to track the car I may just go for the rear and save towards some weitec coilovers.

I could do with some advice, I just had a service at Awesomegti and it was highlighted I have a N/S/F wheel bearing knackered, so I intend to get that done this week. Is it worth me getting them changed in pairs? Its also been mentioned my front wishbone bushes are starting to perish and the front anti roll bar sleaves are starting to crack. I was thinking, is it worth just getting standard bushes or poly bushing? If I was polybushing I would price up getting the lot done. Also, I was going to get a rear anti roll bar fitted eventually but would it be worth going for an uprated front one such as the FK one which Awesome sell? From reading the FK one is 23mm so will be better than a standard one anyway.

That sounds superb, really nice burble. Do you have any other mods on to make it sound like that?

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I'm running these on my rears, can't complain at all. My fronts are down to 4mm so looking to change some Goodyear Optigrip for these. I'd recommend them for the price though they are quite a soft compound.

Cheers for the replies. I'll have to get the paperwork out from Skoda to see what the T&C's say. Its a case of I can afford to run the car but my priority should be saving some money towards a house. I am currently saving but it would be nice to save more and 100 to 150 less on fuel a month is a lot of money. Pitfalls I can see is that since I've had the Skoda I've put over 25k miles on it and by this point I can tell its not a lemon, whereas if I changed cars I'm venturing into the unknown so to speak.

Hi there, I've owned my Octavia VRS since July 2009 and I still like it. However my circumstances have changed and my commute work work has increased by nearly 15 miles each way to about 45 miles each way. Its a case of I can afford to run the VRS but I am living at home with my dad trying to put money to one side, and doing the sums if I went for a boring diesel that did 50+mpg I could save over 100 quid a month, maybe more, on fuel. The best I can get is about 40 or so MPG on a tank and thats being very careful. My car is approaching 57k miles, just been MOT'd, could do with at least rear brake pads shortly, needs a new exhaust clamp on the centre section, the drivers side mirror won't turn left or right due to some bint smashing it colliding with me head on and the tailgate has a slight dent below the Skoda badge. I have a new tailgate handle to fit as there are some scuffs on the one on there now. I am also paying for the car through a personal loan with Skoda finance which has 2 yrs left to run. Would I be mad to part ex the Octavia for something like a Mondeo 2.0 TDCI of similar age or even a diesel Octavia?

I would get reamap from what I've read, possible an uprated DV as well. I'd put the money to one side to cover car maintenence....

I've had my 04 VRS for a year, its standard apart from a Forge 007P DV I switched to normal unleaded about a month ago and seem to get better mpg as a result, 380-390 miles per tank vs 360-370 for 99 ron. I do about 2000 miles a month though.

I got my rears replaced with these in February, awesome improvement over just about legal Contisport 3's. I'll be replacing the fronts with some later this year. They seem hard waring up to now. I do about 2k miles a month in my VRS. When I priced up the cheapest way seemed to be through www.camskill.co.uk, then go to a tyre fitters or say national or kwik fit and pay about 25 quid to get them fitted.

I've had mine done at Kwik Fit last week, had the service done though (they change the pollen filter and clean/anti bacteria the system). It is slightly cooler but more than that it goes cold much quicker than before. Again they plug it into a machine and the machine does everything including the pressure test.

Thanks for all of the replies. I will have to get the pennies together and hopefully wherever I get it remapped will be able to get it sorted. The place I had the trial put on at said it wasn't a full version of the map, it just changed a few settings to give me an idea of what a full remap might be like. This sounded a bit strange to me.

Thanks for the reply. I'll check the air filter in a bit and have another look at the pipework. I've got a feeling it relates to the standard DV valve and perhaps the N249 which from what I've read regulates the operation of the DV?

Hi there, I took my standard 2004 vrs in for a free 5 hour Revo remap. The garage checked for any error codes before and after applying it and there were none. I have visually checked all the pipework and hoses as best I can. I could feel the difference, 2nd and 3rd gear acceleration is immense and the throttle response is more urgent in every gear even accelerating from 70mph in 5th. However I have noticed the power delivery can be a bit jerky, as though the car is stuttering. It just didn't seem to hold boost steadily. Could this be down to the standard DV and perhaps N249 valve? I am getting a Forge 007P at my next service around May 2010.

I would be asking them to get that door fixed, if I had been selling that car that's what I'd have done. If it were me I'd walk away don't buy the first one you come across, they are not rare cars these days!

I got one of these two years ago similar price from Lidl, good bit of kit. I've only used it a few times though.

Those brakes seem a good price, about the same as Mintex box sets off ebay. I'd give them a go myself, I think I will be later this year.

Cheers for the replies. I'll probably stick with servicing at awesome and intermediate changes with national tyres, the local one to me are ok and I can get oil and filter changed for £30.60 with fully synthetic. I'm using fully synthetic throughout, not sure if its castrol that awesome use but it does say fully synthetic on the invoice. I'll have to get some pennies together, next on the list is probably an exhaust the standard one is just far too quiet apart from anything else. I've tried searching does anybody have any soundclips of the blueflame cat back or the miltek non resonated?