brown_d9

Shame... that's a bit more of a fiddly job than a wheel bearing!

Thanks Guys, much appreciated... only issue now for doing this weekend is the weather!

Hey all, Wondered whether anyone knew off the top of their head the torque (Angle setting if applicable) for the rear wheel bearing / hub bolt on a 2009 1Z3 Octy 2 hatchback (CCZA Engine Code) ? Wondered if anyone knew what bit is required for removal too, is it a multipoint or an allen and what size? Got a wheel bearing out (Done 230k miles so done well! ) which I intend to change at the weekend and had in my head it was a special bit, want to make sure i have one 🙂 Thanks in advance Dan

I have a 2009 LE, and got all excited as I thought I spotted another one parked In Biggleswade last weekend and when i went over it didnt have the fancy seats. Isnt you by chance was it?

Or could it be one of the injector seals not quite fitted properly?

Mine runs like a bag of crap when cold when the PCV has failed, change mine for the third time this weekend actually. Test seems to be, pull the dipstick out when its running, if there is no change the PCV is knackered, if it does change then either the PCV is good or its behaving at that particular moment.

I just cant justify that amount of money anymore 😞 Especially on a car with 224,000 miles on it... exhaust is worth more than the car Lol

Hi All, My rear silencer is not far along from dropping off, has been previously repaired but repair is not really possible anymore, so looking for a replacement. Always promised myself to replace it with a nice Milltek unit, but that was before house, wife and potential kids 🙂 Seem to be really struggling to find and aftermarket units online, anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks Dan

Blimey, that doesn't seem bad money presuming its of good quality. I replaced the rear wishbones on mine a while back now, used what I thought was a good pattern brand, although for the life of me cant remember what it was and within months they were as rusty as the old ones. Very disappointed.

Sounds very much like when the PCV valve failed on mine, and I have had one fail a month or so after fitting so could be worth a try. Other than that my next guess would have been a carbon clean, just done mine and it has smoothened up alot.

Definitely worthwhile doing, think i have changed mine 4 times now since having it. Whoever says oil is for life is mad!

Skoda call up G052171A2 for my 2009 VRS (KNU gearbox code), 2,6 Litres if I remember correctly. The genuine stuff is very expensive now, so i tried the Febi equivalent this time and it seems to drive / change gear nicely. (Febi PN 21829)

Its a fiddly job to replace the manifold, particularly the lower bracket bolt but all do-able on the driveway. (need special tool and seals just in case any fuel injectors come out during) Dental picks and Mannol intake valve cleaner... its hard work but doable. I wouldn't do it this way again, I would go the walnut blasting route.

This is what mine looked like before and after. Around 90k miles of gunk.

Possible inlet valves / throttle body all gummed up with carbon?

Around 2 years ago I ordered a seat base foam from the dealer, took a couple of days to arrive so they were available. This was for a 2009 Ltd Edition VRS

Something mine also suffers with, sitting in traffic for ages is a killer for mine, makes it a nightmare to get back into gear. Following...

Yeah triple checked everything. In my experience idle is usually aweful with a vac leak, and it idles lovely. Might smoke test it anyway just to be sure though

Gday all, Having recently manually removed the god aweful carbon buildup from the back of my inlet valves whilst replacing the inlet manifold, I am noticing a fairly significant drop in torque. She starts and runs lovely, and MPG has fractionally improved. Just wondering whether anyone else had experienced anything similar? All I can imagine is that somehow the engine liked the disrupted airflow and now its not its running as designed but not how I had got used to it over 11 years and 218,000 miles of ownership. Thanks Dan

I imagine he is talking about the adjuster bolts on the lower rear wishbones at the subframe end, I had to cut mine off and replace the wishbones. The bolt seizes solid inside the bush. Needless to say it has been re-assembled with copious amounts of copper grease!

I spoke to eurocarparts and asked which of your product codes matches Sachs number 998 411, they read it out and indeed confirmed that none of the numbers listed on their website were correct in this instance. Scary really, just goes to show you cant trust one of the biggest suppliers of parts own website!

Thanks for replying, on the actual Sachs online catalogue it lists the Sachs 998 411 (not 412 as I put previously, my bad) with the correct paint markings. Just trying to work out which one is the right one on Eurocarparts. Going to end up paying massively over the odds with them but the supplier on eBay I had some on order with for half the money has now told me they are out of stock / can’t get any more !

Hi all, Bit of a long shot, anyone bought any Sachs front springs for a VRS with Sachs PN 998 412 from euro car parts? Euros list 2 different Sachs shocks, just trying to work out which are the correct Sachs number as they don’t list the manufacturers PN. Thanks Dan

Hey, Found a broken front spring on the Octy over the weekend, shouldn't complain its the first one after 11 years and 217,000 miles. Didn't stop me complaining mind you! 🙂 Anyway, all spares are on order and the only thing I can't seem to find out for sure is the torque / angle setting for the front driveshaft to hub bolts. (12 sided Bi hex Bolt PN WHT002795) Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks Dan

Im fairly sure I read somewhere that there isnt one....