brown_d9

Hi All, Been suffering with poor headlights recently, even with upgraded Halogens and a set of LEDs, read somewhere on here that the projector lens may look clean but is in fact quite dirty. Anyway, method I used to clean them which has worked a treat is to remove the headlight assembly, remove the bulb and blast the back of the lens with electrical contact cleaner followed by a 1" paint brush shoved down the hole so all the bristles spread out, this can then be spun around to clean the whole lens. Quick blow out with the compressor and jobs a gooden. Hope this is of use to someone... Cheers Dan

Open the boot and the boot seal at the bottom will be full of water, flick the seal and the water will squirt out the little holes straight into the boot. Easy fix is to cut some small holes in the bottom of the seal to let the water drain out, I used a leather belt whole punch. I had to order a new Ltd edition badge from Skoda as mine had fallen apart, that was 6 odd years ago mind you, might not make them anymore. Cant comment on the stereo....

I have had great success with this stuff. Had a few old Fords, and a Honda go on forever by using this stuff.

Exactly what I did too. Nice to have a fully built unit ready to install plus save a few pounds in weight!

Yeah it’s had numerous goes with contact cleaner, still has this spurious error from time to time, was bad yesterday hunting idle occasionally stalling... bloody thing I hate electrics!

Morning all, After replacing my throttle body due to numerous fault codes it has started to play up again, so I would like to De-pin the connector and ensure there aren’t any corroded contacts, now I’m not the most electrically minded person and this would be the first time I have de-pinned a connector, can anyone confirm it is both the little holes either side of the pin that need a tool inserting or just one? photo of said Connie toe below... thanks

Superglue? :-)

Gonna give it a go using jubilee clips, agreed it does look a bloody nightmare to get factory clips in!

For the few extra quid it was to get whole new rods I thought better to replace the lot, pig sick of tyres wearing unevenly so getting as much as possible nice and tight before getting the alignment done. Car has done 199,000 miles now so I would imagine the inner track rod joint has a bit of play in it now.

Hi There, looking to replace my inner track rods / track rod ends shortly as they are seized solid and can no longer be adjusted. After any tips really, access looks a nightmare to replacing the clips on the inside of the boot! Might be a cable tie job! Have borrowed the tool from a mate to undo the track rod from the rack, but unfortunately as the rod end can't be removed it will need cutting off, was hoping not to have to do that so I could remove the whole assembly and measure it prior to fitting the new ones, at least get it most of the way there before taking it for 4 wheel alignment.

Hey, see attached looks like item 3 is what you need PN 1Z0853665A. (Mine is also a 2009 petrol VRS Ltd Edition)

That does make sense, shame it appears to have turned into the weak point in the system, wondering if the clips on the connector are sort of single use as I recently had cause to disconnect it whilst replacing the AC condenser, if only I had thought to cable tie it shut then.

Yeah thats right, there is a long length going from the handle in the cabin to the little black box hidden under the slam panel, this then joins a small length going to the actual bonnet release, funny idea sure its like that for some special reason!

Morning All, Bit of a guide really after following some advice on here, and some ideas of my own (well the father in laws).. So yesterday after popping out at lunchtime to check the oil level post an oil service the day before, pulled the bonnet release handle in the cabin and it moved with some tension but hey ho.. bonnet wont release. The fix was, drivers side wheel off, inner arch liner removed (plastic part), and fiber liner pulled back out the way, and headlight cover removed, the offending cable can be seen easily, but when grabbed and pulled the 2 parts just separated at the connector near the bonnet release catch on the slam panel. With a torch the nipple of the bonnet release end of the cable can be easily seen. We tied a slip knot to the end of an old bathroom light string, and maneuvered it over the nipple using a flexible grabber pull the string and hey presto bonnet is open! Then its just a case of simply reattaching the cables in the connector and cable tying it together so it cant release again. Hope this helps someone one day Lol Dan

Hmmm odd one, sounds like it must be a faulty new injector?

When you say you are watching cyclinder 1,2,3 read 0 and #4 climbing to 130, do you mean the Vag com mis-fire counter?

Has it been scanned with Vag Com? Only thing I can think of that would make it rev on its own would be the throttle body opening of its own accord, cant see how that would cause a "misfire" though, mine hunted at idle sometimes when it had a throttle body issue, dropping below idle and then creeping back up again...

Ahh ok thanks, that makes sense. Thanks

I will do that thanks, pretty sure they have dropped off though. Still intrigued though quite how to interpret the parts catalogue. Thought the aircraft manuals I am used to working with were tricky! :-)

Hi All, Might well treat the car to some new rear shocks, they have done 197,000 so im sure they must have some wear and tear! Anyway, when looking at the various google parts catalogues, they keep referring to PR codes such as PR-1JA, 1JB, 1JC... bit of research led me to the sticker on the boot floor... can I find any of these codes???? Am i missing something, do the codes on the sticker need translating to something else somehow? Any help gratefully received... Dan

Owned mine from new since May 2009... On 196,000 miles now!

Perfect thanks! Just hope the access is as easy as that photo makes it look, cant for the life of me remember how much room there is down there, and I refuse to look with snow on the ground! Dont want piles! :-)

Goood morning all, Looking to replace the front track rods on the Mk2 VRS... Wondered if anyone could recommend a suitable tool from experience for unscrewing the steering rack end? Thanks in advance Dan

Bloody hell, that's not good! Makes me slightly more happy about having replaced all of my rear lower wishbones last year, they were 10 years old and done 200K mile but weren't worryingly rusty at all. They were only changed as the camber adjusters were all seized up.

Good man, thanks very much. Was thinking about going down the walnut blasting route but iI just cant quite bring myself to go for it, im gifted at making a mess! :-) Just ordered 3 cans of it from Ebay, was only £8 something for X3 400ml cans so more than enough!