StevesTruck

It's a questionable practice, but my favourite way of cleaning a coolant system is to throw a dishwasher tablet in. Can you get any live data from the temperature sensors?

To be fair, that sounds more like a flap or control issue than a problem on the cooling circuit. Does your car have 2 zone climate control in the front? My sneaking suspicion would be that one of the cabin or vent temperature sensors is giving spurious readings.

Wow, that's a shifty looking company. Address hidden away in a privacy policy, no nominee details on the domain registration and a director with a string of liquidated companies with very similar names.

Yeah, that's never coming out. I'm guessing they tack welded it to the frame before they put the skin panel on. - Best suggestion would be a rivnut.

There's an old farmer round here has one, the car is more rust than metal, and the private plate on it's probably worth about £20k 🤣

I've just noticed you're in Lincolnshire. Drop me a message if there's anything I can do to help. I live in Alford, work odd days in Lincoln and Grimsby

Petrol or diesel?

Give the cable a really thorough looking at, unplug it, manipulate it about a bit, looking for cracks. It's possible that the wires are starting the break up and it's only showing when the car's moving.

It might have just taken a few goes to do a decent regen, and after that, taken some time to register everything is now ok.

Just a word to the wise, these love to seize up. Give them a good spray a day or two in advance and clean the bolt head up well before trying to remove it. The hole normally goes all the way through on VW group cars, so you can probably get in to spray the thread from the other side as well.

C+R Enterprises in Radford 👍

First things first - have you changed the pollen filter and checked there's no nastiness going off in it's housing? My old employer used to use the Normfest foggers in their vehicles, and it worked well. Personally, I use an ozone generator. Run it for an hour with the air con on recirculating, then knock it off and let it sit overnight before venting the car. Bear in mind the foggers and ozone are both toxic, so you do need to vent the car out.

Cost to insure would be no different, but they probably would try to knock you quite heavily on PAV if it were written off again. Some of the more expensive car history checks (car vertical and the like) will sometimes show pictures from when the car was in the salvage auction. I personally wouldn't buy a repaired car unless the seller was prepared to show me pictures of the original damage, so I can see where repairs have been done and check the quality of them.

Which engine?

Clamp the flexi hoses one at a time, see what it does to the pedal feel. That can help you find which wheel has the issue, or if it's a whole system problem (which would point to the master cylinder). I'm a big fan of pre-filling calipers before connecting them, and using a vacuum bleeder rather than a pressure bleeder.