sherlocks VRS

Not a iv, 2.0 tsi

Mileage is low to be fair, 15k from new, only thing I’ve got is a ignition fed dash cam which only comes on when engine is running, just wondering if battery is on its way out or a fault on battery management System, it has got the dreaded Moll battery fitted

Hi all, 2020 superb sportline 2.0 tsi, comes up with driving battery low, drive to charge, battery comes up good on vw tester, charging rate is 13.9 volts when running, got a static fault of NV energy management alarm triggered in system which won’t clear, anyone seen this before as it’s got me stumped, thanks in advance

Ignore any comments about the 272, I’ve owned one from new 2020, it’s amazing, loads of power and very linear, I work at Skoda and don’t see any faults apart from the thermistor housing leak, but this is on all 2.0tsi, the gpf/opf isn’t a issue and the new 280 has one, to put it in context the early 280 was good the 272 is in my opinion fantastic and the new 280 is also very good, just depends on your finances at what you want to pay,

Not trying to answer your question, I don’t know why your dealer cancelled, that’s something you need to contact your dealer and find out why, it could be a number of reasons, but any of the criteria’s set by Skoda need at least a visual inspection to know what actions need to be taken, we do loads and some are literally a visual check but some are mats and heat pads, just need the engine to be cold to fit the mats as you can seriously burn yourself

Dsg only but petrol and diesel are affected, different criteria’s need different actions, some are a visual only, others require a addition heat pad fitting behind the current heat mat and some require both a heat mat and a pad fitting to the plastic take off, also the reason for some dealers wanting the car for a long time is the dpf or opf gets stinking hot and access is poor to do the job and techs don’t have asbestos hands lol

The petrol 2 ltrs can suffer from the thermistor unit leaking, easy to diagnose as you can see coolant stains under the front of the engine sump, easy job once you have done a few or even better if you have warranty

If the water pump/ thermostat housing was replaced under warranty a water pump belt would/should have been replaced, the cambelt wouldn’t have been touched, the cambelt doesn’t drive the water pump as it has its own drive belt

Right I know all the purists inc myself would say get a map but. ive got a 272 sportline and would dearly love to have it mapped but ive got extended warranty and don’t want to land in the **** if anything goes wrong and the claim gets rejected, part of the warranty process is to check for td1 (map) if it’s anything to do with engine/ drivetrain faults, looking at these boxes is a mind field so was wondering if any of you fine people had any dealings/ recommendations, used them on diesels in the past but not petrol, thanks in advance for any info or help you can give

Circled red for you

The actual adblue injector is near to the brake fluid reservoir on the exhaust, stand looking under the bonnet from the front of the car and it’s the top left of the engine with a adblue feed pipe and 2 small coolant pipes going to it

If it’s the estate then they haven’t got locating holes

Shift patterns aren’t adjustable just basic factory settings, the box learns the driver’s characteristics by seeing throttle positions and the amount of gear changes it needs for the roads its Travelling on etc, so a car that is sat doing motorway miles will change differently to a car that constantly does short journeys, also a driver that has a heavy foot compared to a driver that is a Sunday driver, those cars will change differently as well, this is called self learning, this can be re set by doing basic settings 👍

What utter BS, using Odis (dealer diagnostic equipment) you can carry out basic settings on a Dsg gearbox, this has to be done when a new clutch pack or mecatronix unit is fitted, also when we fit new Dsg boxes you have to carry out basic settings, the Dsg box also learns your driving characteristics, you can also do a basic setting using none franchise equipment like a snap on or Autel diagnostic units, done it myself numerous times so I don’t know why you have been told this, perhaps he doesn’t know how too 🤔

If no oil has been spilled at any point it’s 100% front main oil seal, I’ve done loads.

Was told by AKS tuning not to bother wasting my money and stick with the oe ones, to be fair they are well built and short in length so can’t see any issues

Only got the rear done but it made a massive difference and stopped the rear from excessive roll

We do see some but not many, very easy to do, new oil and 2 plugs, 1x drain and 1x fill plugs

When we do a Haldex service we don’t just change the oil we also remove the pump and wash the gauze off and clean the pump housing out, we then flush the unit out with a little Haldex oil before putting the pump back in and refilling the system, to be honest it’s false economy just doing the oil, it’s amazing just how much crud there is when the pump is removed, Pointless just changing the oil without cleaning the gauze and housing because if the gauze gets too blocked it could burn the pump out eventually.

The act engines filter is on the front of the block which you access from the underside, (steel canister type), Skoda has the 2.0 tsi engines (Octavia and superb etc) filter is on the top which is a paper element type, so the original question was regarding a 1.4 act engine which would need doing from underneath, incidentally I do work at a main dealer and we don’t use extraction systems as we go underneath every car to do a health check so it’s a waste of time not doing it by draining it properly and also changing the filter whilst your there

For the sake of about 3 quid for a new sump plug why would you bother, it’s got to have the under tray removed to get to the filter anyway and it’s not a merc, you can do it on the 2.0 tsi but that still leaves a amount of oil in, with that engine being a act engine I wouldn’t want to risk it with the oil galleries being so fine and the oil fed act system being run at such fine tolerances, but each to there own, these are just my thoughts from doing this job for nearly 40 years and trying to help and guide others and I’ve seeing some muppet repairs over the years as well from Sunday DIYers

I’ve got a hr fitted to my superb sportline 272 4x4 estate, which is listed for the golf R, I got it from AKS Tuning, no fitment issues whatsoever and it does make a difference.

Oil extractors are a waste of time as you cannot guarantee getting all the oil out of the sump, you’ve got to take the under tray off so just buy a sump bung and do it properly

Only the cambelt along with the idlers and tensioner and new bolts need changing, the pump doesn’t get changed as it runs of a separate belt on the opposite side to the cambelt.