gregoir

A run of around 10 miles, in several stages today, was enough to trigger the Stop/Start to work, again, even in the dark with the headlights on. I'm impressed, but don't understand what improvement the intelligent charger has been able to make to the system.

I've never "tried". In the past batteries have failed pretty suddenly. The worst case was my Mini 850cc. The battery was so weak it wouldn't crank the engine over. I removed one spark plug and it started. Screwed the plug back in with a running engine. It went well enough to get to the local battery store. A mark III Golf battery went from hero to zero suddenly when away from home. I called the AA out and a new battery was fitted. Other cars needed coaxing along with battery chargers. The good old days, mostly involving cold and snowy weather.

My battery has never been low enough to prevent first time starting. The intelligent charger has stimulated the Stop/Start system. Worked at each halt over the past two days around town. Even once with the headlights on. Looks like a success. Thanks folks for all your "inputs".

I have read both the Skoda Octavia manual and the Kia Picanto manual for details of battery charging. For the Skoda it is , naturally as the advice here. The Kia manual insists that the battery must be removed first. Impractical and onerous. I'll stick with the battery jump pack when necessary. As I said before, connection of a charger sets off the alarm.

The "intelligent" charger is cycling away. Applying an indicated 15.2V and 1.1A, last time that I looked. Then switches itself OFF and then repeats. Plug in voltmeter indicated 14.5 v when the charger was off. I'm not sure how long to let it charge for.

I only used pulse for a short while. My first time using this battery charger. Switched off unplugged from the mains and plugged in again and let it do it's thing. Switched automatically to OFF after an hour while the plug in voltmeter indicated 14V. The charging lead fits in the gap above the headlight. Disconnected the unit as I've gone out; the indicated volts dropped to 12.5V. I'll keep an eye on things. Thanks for all the useful inputs.

Okay thanks for that. It was just a convenient use of existing charger and connectors. I've now used my clip on smart charger as described.

Plugging the Optimate into the permanently live power socket in the centre console using an appropriately polarised plug.

Just found your reply. The main dealer diagnosed and tested that the previous battery, alternator and control systems were all ok. And talked me through all the system parameters. Despite that, the Stop/Start system never working on the road. I took it back repeatedly . It was only weeks before the warranty expired that I told them there was a faulty batch of batteries, reported here on Briskoda. Thanks! After the new battery was fitted, the Stop/Start system worked frequently, even during a short journey. It is not working thus nowadays, which makes me believe the battery is on the way out. The Optimate charger is connected, and some lights are flashing, which means pulse charging.

Thanks for your detailed reply. A pity the Skoda dealership couldn't cope with the failing battery a few years ago.

Thanks for your comments.The power socket in my Octavia is permanently live, so the Optimate functions. The Skoda is way out of warranty. I did prod them about the faulty OE batteries at the time. The unlocked Kia's car alarm goes off when the bonnet is open and the battery charger is connected. That's why I use the jump pack on occasion.

I already have the jump start pack. I bought a smart? charger a few years ago but using it on my wife's Kia just sets off the alarm. I used my Optimate battery maintainer on the Skoda via the power socket, but I note it's only intended for batteries up to 50Ah.

It's more than simply that surely? The Stop Start system failed to work with my previous EFB even when the voltages were normal for the system.

Yes, I already have one incorporating a USB outlet. That's how I know about the low voltage.

On depressing the clutch pedal today, I heard a mild bonk each time. The floor mat was in place and no rubbish was seen. I'm guessing the spring attachment, pivot point or the clutch switch might be responsible. Im physically unable to stick my health under the fascia. But used a mirror. The noise had gone when I got parked up but I sprayed WD-40 specialist dry lube liberally. Time will tell.Any comments? BTW I noticed a strange side flap on the RHS of the braked pedal. Any ideas of the rationale?

The cheapo central locking module has worked great ever since.

Too late, but it's your responsibility to order what you wanted.

I've just changed from Vredestein Quatrac 5 to Vredestein Quatrac. Sounds like a bit of time traveling, but they are the latest version. Working great in snow and ice and a slightly quieter ride.

Thanks. Stop/start has recently only worked after a long run. Not many of those recently .I experienced it not working at all before I got a new battery fitted under warranty, about 4.5 years ago. If starting gets dodgy, then a new battery will be needed.

A clutch problem is the obvious answer. A leaking master or a slave cylinder . I believe the latter is difficult to examine and may be an engine out job.

I imagine the engine switches from the richer mixture on starting to a leaner one once the engine warms up. Various sensors will be involved in the process.

Thanks for mentioning the micro hybrid system. I've no wish to try DIY diagnostics due to lack of skill and deteriorating health. I'll just have to wait for the car to not start. A jump start pack is on hand.

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I'd check that out with them first. My local branch has always been excellent fitting batteries, wiper blades and light bulbs.

The voltage, on idle, is not getting as high as I'd hope when doing short runs.