rolo

Just tried to sync the 16v ecu with lite and a blue lead, no result. Tried a solus that would do the throttle adapt but thats all. Do I need the registered process or the full job? Polo loom needs shortening too, 8v ecu smiling at me now and the 30k aee round the corner.

won`t work will look out for another.

Just doing the 16v thing and noticed the afh head has a water pipe with 2, 4 pin points, if this fits, to be tried later, it would solve the temp gauge problem as the tdi and na senders could both be used, golf to ecu and felly to gauge; 1-3 and 2-4 respectively.

Depends which box and tyres for final gearing obviously. The diesel box on 195/65/15 tyres gives 100mph(gps) at 4k (std diesel rev counter) and 3k is 70.(trackday) The speedos are usually way optimistic. The fun says 2.8k at 70 on its std wheels but it lies and its yet to be corrected. Not sure how the 1.4 will respond to the 1.6 gearing, should know shortly

universal on gearlinkage often develops play--kit to fix is about £20. Strength of felly box itself has surprised me.

OK cheers, there`s no ref to afh under toothed belt cover where I`m looking on vc.

Just been on vagcat looking for seat 1.4 16v afh for plastic cover set, struggling to find one designated afh, any help appreciated.

been looking around for a used engine for the fun and just seen 2 aee`s on ebay.One from polo one from golf.The golf one is described as `won`t fit polo`. Will either fit the fun?

TDI runs much cooler. Golf and felicia 4pins are different. The ecu needs the golf 1-3 connection. The dash needs a felicia 2-4 with the yellow and brown 2-4 felicia wiring Played with the needle to get some sort of reading. You need a skoda resistance sensor supplying the yellow wire, the brown is earth. My solution was (although never done) to use a one wire temp sender from say, a favorit and introduce it to hot water via a passat rhs hose connector as it has a suitable position. There are 3 sensor positions on it and I would have run a caddy/t25 glow plug control, 1 wire, sensor to the felicia red wire. It seems you have no temp control other than IAT to the golf ecu at present. ECU pin 14 should have this connection with a return to pin 33 Hope this helps abit Oh, and if you`re shortening the wires to make it all tidy,the crank sensor and needle lift are shielded against EMR so used aluminium tape to try and reproduce this over the join

Was replacing the swivels a couple of weeks ago and had already decided to replace the gearbox end to make things better/simpler. Had ordered the parts by no. and ended up with 2 gearbox shaft connectors possibly my fault as you need to double up most things. Was struggling to get the pins out even red hot. The whole shaft, which was a better way of buying the repair bits, and not much dearer, became no longer available in march,so decided to replace the whole joint by using 2 gearbox ends. Found that the handle of a half inch drive sliding drive bar was a good fit onto/into the box side of the joint. Using a section of this, an 8mm drill and a spare roll pin, duplicated the gearbox connection which, after cutting the end off the gearlever connector was welded in its place. The whole joint is now changable using parts still available. May be useful to someone. cheers rolo.

and the felicia temp gauge wires are 2 and 4 yellow and brown- these connect to the same on the golf switch. you can use the passat water exit from the back (rhs) of the engine which has accomodation for 3 std type sensors and use one for temp control of glow using an earlier type vw sender and probably an earlier skoda for better gauge control.

see page 2

think still got the ones that were replaced by the ford ones, will check tomorrow, they and me are in burnley.

Make sure that you solder and shrink wrap any joints in the loom, but just crimp any joints or terminals not in it. have fun.

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Well, started so I`ll finish that which may be useful to others. PIN 35 RED---------cruise control, left off 36 Blank 37 Blank 38 BLACK-------Ignition switched live 39 BROWN-------Earth, loom connector or RED/WHITE---Alternator 40 Blank 41 Blank 42 BLACK/VIOLET-Engine control relay t5 (negative switched by ecu) 43 BLUE/WHITE--Dash control, left off 44 BLACK/RED----Brake pedal position switch 1 t2, bpps t1 fused batt live 45 BLACK/YELLOW-Common, loom connection, also to black t1 speed sensor 46 BROWN--------Earth 47 RED/BLUE or BROWN/BLUE--- turbo wastegate controller t2 48 BLUE/GREEN--Coolant heater, left off. 49 BROWN/YELLOW-Loom connection links pins 4,5,49,30 with pump connection 6 50 YELLOW/BLUE--Glow plug relay, left off. 51 BROWN/BLACK-- Becomes brown Fuel injection timing solenoid, pump con.t4 52 WHITE/GREEN-- Fuel quantity sensor, pump connector t3 c 53 WHITE/BLACK-- Fuel cut off connector. 54 Blank 55 GREY/RED-----TPS t3 56 Blank 57 YELLOW/GREEN-TPS t2 58 Blank 59 Blank 60 Blank 61 GREY/WHITE---OBD plug and immo 62 GREEN/WHITE--TPS t5 63 YELLOW/BLACK-- Fuel temp sensor, pump cntrol connector t7. When shortening wires do not join this to BLACK/YELLOW 64 BLUE/YELLOW----Intake air temp sensor t1; t2 brown/white or brown/blue return 65 GREY/BLUE------TPS, t4 66 BLACK/WHITE----cruise control, left off. 67 Blank 68 BLACK/YELLOW---Common live switched by control relay Simples

Tom may know that.I`d get another ecu and immo deleted. That chip will cause you clutch problems. I`d just do the variable resistor on the fuel quantity circuit, worked wonders on the toledo, estimate 10-15 bhp cost pennies.Adjustable from inside and turned on/off

Once you have stripped the loom you will see the groups of commons which link together at some point inside it.I used the Skoda glowplug system.If "or" point where my loom differed from wiring diagrams. ECU PIN WIRE COLOUR 1 BROWN------------Connects to a body/engine earthing point, it also joins browns from 24;46. and the black from terminal 3, crank sensor, and terminal 5 MAF sensor 2 BLACK/GREEN------Connects to dash control t5-- left off 3 Blank 4 BROWN/YELLOW-----To brown/yellow loom connection and then to t6 fuel pump connector 5 BROWN/YELLOW-----To brown/yellow loom connection and then to t6 fuel pump connector 6 Blank 7 GREY/GREEN-------Pump modulation sensor, t2 fuel pump connector 8 GREEN/YELLOW or BLUE-------------Engine speed (crank) sensor t2 9 VIOLET/WHITE-----Dash control t26; left off 10 Blank 11 BLUE-------------Needle lift sensor (injector3) 12 GREY------------- " " " 13 BROWN/RED--------MAF sensor t6 14 BROWN/GREEN or Temperature sensor t3 BLUE/BROWN 15 WHITE/BLUE-------Throtle position sensor t1 16 Blank 17 WHITE/RED--------Clutch switch t2 18 Blank 19 RED/GREEN--------MAF t1 20 WHITE/YELLOW-----Brake pedal switch 2(blue) 21 Blank 22 Blank 23 BLACK/YELLOW-----Black/Yellow loom connection, then engine control relay t6 c as blue/red 24 BROWN------------Earth, connects to other browns 25 BROWN/WHITE------EGR t2: EGR t1 black/yellow fed via loom connection 26 Blank 27 Blank 28 Blank 29 VIOLET/BLACK-----Fuel quantity adjuster position sensor,pump c connector t1 30 Blank 31 Blank 32 Blank 33 BROWN/WHITE or BROWN/BLUE---Common return via loom connection for tps t6, pump t4 brake pedal pos.(2) t2, clutch switch t1, intake air temp sensor t2, crank sensor t1,MAF t2, temp switch t1 34 BLUE/GREY--------Cruise control. Left off TBC

**** up so now new post OBD-data link connector 16pin. Use 3 only, if yellow connected ignore it Pin 4---Brown,-earth Pin 7---Grey/White,-Pin 61 ECU Pin 16--Red/White (Pin 15--Yellow) All this is found inside the car, plus brake pedal and clutch switches. Pin data later.

Thunderstorm stops play so will make a start on the boring? bit. For a 1996tdi Golf, ECU no.028 906 021 AF,waterproofed and mounted o/s (shelf) but 1" up as it collects water. IMMOBILISER --The chip in the key responds to the reader, the ring round the lock.You need at least the chip which can then work whenever and however its presented to the pickup. A black sheathed spur then connects to the immo box via a 3pin one way only plug. The other connector is 6pin Pin 1---Black,- which is a switched (by turning on the ign) live. (generally known as wire 16) Pin 2---Grey/White,- (Nb-Main colour is first, trace after)-this goes to pin61 on the ecu. Pin 3---Grey,- diagnostic plug where it connects as grey/white Pin 4---Brown,-earth Pin 5---Not connected Pin 6---Brown,-earth made into a small harness with OBD connector

Will the fun immo system work with the 16v ecu?

sorry been catching up with some jobs that the first rain free week for ages has let me at. used an aaz inlet with the top blanked and the elbow welded onto the front facing the gearbox. Then cut up the golf inter cooler pipes to mount it over the gearbox by altering the original bracket bolted to the leg top screws and a simple front stabiliser. Air flows through via holes in the bonnet front captured into the bonnet cross member then sideways into ducts made from ally and plastic and then downwards through the cooler.You can use the bonnet skeleton as some of the ducting, blanking it, where necessary, with expanding foam. Time to plan which electrics to use, all the golfs or a combination, no speed sensor on the box so felly dash allows original. Which heater plug system too. There are some snags with sensors here. A system using the skoda one with just a timer and no hot engine control seemed easier, although the temp gauge needed some moving of the needle for the golf sensor. Is the wiring still intact? Have you got the key? Have you got the ecu no? Are you using the tps at the pedal or attached to a cable (my choice)-simple bracket to the slam panel? What colour is the wire that goes to pin39? If you use the brake pedal switch more mpg- shuts down pump when brakes on also a good fail safe. Using the speed sensor, possible but there`s a gizmo to buy, allows the pump to cut out on the overrun, more mpg, I did neither.

Put your ecu no.s up it will maybe help. The dipstick angle may be slightly different as it will now be at the front. Just fill it with correct aef amont and mark it if different. (5 litres iirc) If you haven`t already done it label the connections to each sensor whilst you still remember, once the insulation`s removed everything starts looking the same and if the loom has variations, they all seem to have, you can construct your own diagram. The first thing I did was write down all the colours and terminations from ecu to sensor so that if I couldn`t find exactly the correct diag., and I didn`t, I could work out what went where. More later

Will take me a day or so to sort it. I`ll put it on here so its available to anyone.

You need the immo set up and the obd connector. Have kept details of the wiring for a 68 pin ecu.