oh_superb

I absolutely agree, this "mod" is one to consider for the future :clap:

http://degriottier.free.fr/skoda_superb_thunderbolt_05ar.jpg When the normal Superb is not enough...

Decided not to gamble, so bought a genuine diesel filter and had it fitted at a garage. All inc cost 48 pounds, I'll see what happens in terms of cold starts, but it was due anyway. If still lumpy will see what to do. However, something that is obvious now that I had my first cold start since brimming the tank with Shell fuel is that it is not as lumpy on Shell as it was on supermarket branded fuel. Either different waxing characteristics, or the glow plugs are not that hot any more and there is an increased sensitivity to cetane. But I did check the fuel line this morning on the cold start at 0 deg C and no air was getting pulled through (contrast to warm start observed yesterday where I could see bubbles).

I lent my vacuum oil extractor to a friend this weekend… previously I used it to suck fuel through. Is it too risky to approach the fuel filter change without the vacuum TP69? What I meant was pinch the feed from tank and pinch the feed to IP and fill the new fuel filter with fresh diesel, and pray? Or foolish? Don't want to have to revert to the Jazz for the rest of the weekend :(((

At the time of the last IP replacement the fuel filter was 17k miles old and the connection had not been disturbed for months prior to the IP failure/replacement. OK, I'll get a new fuel filter installed. Is advice for OEM? Or Champion? ECP are out of MANN ones otherwise I'd get that, though I'll ring the local ECP shop and see if they may stock one.

When I had the fuel pump overhaul (at 121k, now 133k) the garage said they would change the fuel filter. Not sure they did, nothing of such was on the receipt and if they didn't then the filter is 30k miles old (I have just checked the records) having last been changed at 103k. Even if they had changed it, it would now be 12k miles old. But I suspect they didn't. Do you mean electrical connections under the cover? I do not remember seeing any fuel lines there, but it's been a while since I last poked my head in there.

I have posted on this before by hijacking another similar thread, so here we go again. Cold starts are lumpy and shaky, it's as if it misfires on 1-2 cylinders. Resistance of glow plugs was checked, all identical, around 0.8 Ohm cold. Voltage feed to all the glow plugs was checked when the glow plug relay was on. Last few mornings the cold starts were worse, so not just say 1-2 s worth of shaky smokey TDI lump, but worse, 5-8 s required to stabilise idle, and to fire on all. That is enough to induce sufficient diesel smell in the street to start being the tea time discussion subject of my neighbours :-)) This morning I also heard like tappety/diesely/knocky combustion coming in and out, a bit like when I had the injection pump failure 13k miles ago :-((( But much less severe of course. Like the advance servo was hunting a bit. I started thinking. And got more and more concerned... Then I decided to pop the bonnet and have a good look. Spotted a bubble in the clear diesel line. After parking the car for 20 min after another 170 mile round trip I decided to open the bonnet and have a good look at the "bubble". OK, now, on a restart, as the engine picks up (faultlessly when warm/warmish) I spotted around 5 "glugs" of air in the fuel line within the first 3-4 seconds of idle, and then was clear, they were sucked through the injection pump and gone. So, if that much air is dragged in in only 20 minutes, how much could there be sucked in overnight?? Yet to be checked on the next cold start…. Could this be giving me cold start problems, i.e. air in the system and effectively I might also be giving the IP a hard time as it has to pull all that air through every morning? Where could the air be coming from? One of the fuel lines attached to the thermostat valve on the fuel filter seems to be perished a bit. I also read somewhere that the gasket underneath it could be leaking air in also. What about the injector spill lines? The whole area around there is damp, not sure if engine oil or diesel or a combination of the two. Where shall I start???

I have aClarion NX700E, very happy with it, was a grand new, but plenty of used bargains now. DOuble DIN, fits perfectly.

What engine do you have in your new car then? Hope it's not the abundant 2.0 tdi.

Something I do like in the MK1 are the wide seats. Will have to see if the MK2 can cater for my needs. Being 15 stone 6 ft 4 basically means I don't really fit into most cars comfortably over many hours

Barum Bravuris 2. Have had all the big brands, and overall satisfaction level has been the highest with these tyres. They are cheap. Have had them for 21k miles and they could do another 15k ish or more. They are quiet. In fact very quiet. They are not directional so X axle rotation is easy (and I do it every 3-6k miles) Previously with Michelins I had bulging sudewalls for no real reason. Pirellis went 50p coin shaped and very very noisy! Avons an overall fast wearing low grip tyre. Dunlop nothing remarkable. Etc etc. Barum any day for me from now on. A mate swapped from a set of Goodyear Efficient Grips to Barum on my recommendation and has been very happy too (that's on an S max).

I always assumed it is where all the relays are, behind the fuses??

Yes, yes, of course :-) I'm getting too old for this **** though ;-) But where there is a problem there is an opportunity to learn. Anyway, HID fixed today. Can't do anything else next weekend as the missus is away again so I'll be baby sitting… hm. But must do the top mounts, assuming they cause the rattling, getting worse. This is a properly hijacked thread now. So I'll revert to glow plugs. Mine has started misfiring on a cylinder on cold starts again. But the glow plugs are fine. In terms of resistance that is. Baffled...

Just an update, as I seem to have the same problem, today I changed the ballast on the bulb, with a spare one I had kicking about in the garage, and then drove 170 miles in the dark and the problem has not returned, no more flickering and then light going out with bulb failure warning.

Thank you cnc, Raptor and Supeb170 for your views, they are very useful indeed! Well, I guess you might see me back in here once I've driven them all!

You got it! :clap: But now I have an unavoidable list of things to do: Auto box oil and filter Front top mounts (hope this will fix suspension front left noise) Brake hoses at front CV boots Flickering xenon Can't be asked with the sporadic door lock problems TBH. But the above are required

Thank you guys for the detailed replies, it is very much appreciated! It certainly gives me enough info to make the decision making easier. I'm not so much a person who accelerates much, but cruising on cruise control and being able to pull up those long hills at high speed on the bahn is important for me. The 2.5 does it so effortlessly that not much catches up with me in the fast lane there and most cars slow down appreciably while I just keep my foot in and maintain speed. You are right the 2.5 does not have that much more torque at peak than the 1.9, BUT, especially with the remap, where the 1.9 peaks at 1700-1800 and then rapidly drops off, on the 2.5 340Nm are there from 1200-1300 and pretty much to 3500 or even higher before it drops off only slightly at 4000. So at 70mph in top gear no difference. But by 90mph and onwards towards vMax, the V6 just keeps pulling by a considerable margin better than the 4 pot. I think I would miss that too much. But still willing to consider a 1.6 and take for an extended test drive. Then drive a 140 purely to gauge what a 1.6 might be like with a decent remap. If both feel inadequate, 170 it has to be. I want a manual. Fed up with slush :-) Finally. Currently my MK1 has factory bixenons and I'm used to that and I know Mk2 has much better bixenons. Do only Elegance spec ones get them or were they available as an add on item? Can they be visually recognised on adverts, any special features to distinguish from the lesser halogen units? I would not buy one without factory xenons. Those lights with dynamic range and cornering etc are just fantastic. Not to mention a light year ahead of the old Mk1 bixenons by comparison.

I had EXACTLY the same problem yesterday! Flicked ones last night. Then this morning flicked a few times and died. Headlight out warnin on dash too. Tonight did the same thing. By Osram bulbs are under a year old. It's not that. It's the ballast. I have two spare ones. I also have two spare igniters. I think it will be the one sitting on the bulb an not the one under the headlight. I'll do the change tomorrow and let you know here if hat fixed it. But what's interesting is that that headlight went out once in the summer of 2013. And been fine since. But now the problem is persistent so needs attention before my £60 bulbs gets destroyed by the faulty electronics.

No I didn't. Just drained the water that it was sitting in!!! I think the servo has seen better days but it's still the original one.

£20 an hour. I think too much. Considering they do nothing, and I know mechanics who work for £30 an hour actually working. And considering gearbox cool down time and full up time I reckon I'll spend close to £100 in ramp time. I'll do it on the drive. We have plenty of oil absorbent pads to put under the car.

Proud owner of a MK1 2.5 tdi "gas guzzler" and "powerhouse" :-) However, she is 12 years old now, and I'm starting to think that: 1. GBP300 road tax 2. Ageing everything 3. Auto box might go wrong 4. 40 mpg is not great by modern standards and diesel won't stay cheap forever That perhaps it is time to upgrade to a mark 2. My MRS is quite keen on the LWB idea, as she can sit in the back and read her favourite book in comfort :-) In fact, I am considering going the polar opposite in terms of engine/power/refinement etc and considering a 1.6 Greenline, estate, preferably in Elegance trim (my MK1 is Elegance, and I'm quite spoilt). However, I am slightly concerned about lack of grunt. Not having driven one, what do genuine owners say about the small diesel, can it haul OK? I must say that a significant portion of my annual mileage (80% of it) is pulling miles across the European autobahns, I don't go crazy with my V6 at the moment, I tend to do 90-95 mph cruise where safe and legal, still does 40 mpg, and is quiet at those speeds and feels safe and solid. And the beauty of the V6 is that that's when it comes into its own, and has enough reserve to overtake someone and then return to normal cruise. But the high road tax and 22 mpg around town are a pain. Though not much around town driving with this beast, we have a Jazz for that. Perhaps the Greenline is a step too far and I am better off with a 170. Or even a 140. Is 140 as reliable as a 170, and are they both genuinely CR or is 140 a PD. I'm looking at 2010-2011 cars. I think early 140s were PD if not mistaken and were to be avoided or so I heard (injectors etc). The taxi company I regularly use to take me to the airport run a 4x4 170 MK2, and they are every happy with it (after an R class they ran to nearly 400k miles, it uses half the fuel and are very happy with it). I know the 1.6 can be remapped to 145 PS-ish. Having a DPF one of course does not know how smoke free the remap is until it all goes horribly wrong and the DPF clogs. So anyone with remap experience, or 1.6 normal tune everyday life experience? Are 1.6 TDi engines reliable. Anything to look out for? Are DPFs reliable and do they regenerate spontaneously? Do the Greenline Superbs require AdBlue periodically? Finally, how much fuel does the 1.6 actually drink at 80-90 mph, or does it start getting too thirsty due to short gearing? Sorry for too many questions, but I need a steer. And thanks in advance.

I am not of small stature, but when my pedal went hard unexpectedly, even with my 15 stone grunt, it wasn't slowing down I tell you that much. It was proper hair raising moment approaching a red traffic light! Handbrake stopped me though. Since then I keep checking the darn thing.

Outboard (marine) oil Pump arrived today :-) Oil should be arriving tomorrow.

Nice one thanks… I better ring them and find the price. Only problem is that you need a cold or coldish box to work on to set the oil level correctly, but in this weather I suspect within an hour it won't be too far off sitting outside, plus another hour until I've removed the shields, drained it all, removed the sump, swapped the filter and re-fitted the sump and filled to the stand pipe...

Febi catalogue states oil 29738 is suitable for the Superb. This can be had for £31 for a 5 litre tub. So with two tubs you could do an oil change, then a week later (or next service) dump 3 litres from the sump and pour 3 fresh litres in. Doesn't get any getter than that for £60 (plus filter). The only downside is that the makeshift way of filling the box with an outboard pump means that the big tub is not really suitable. But given I will be changing the oil in brother's car this weekend (1 litre canisters), I can re-use these canisters for my oil change purposes as they will fit the outboard pump perfectly.