oh_superb

When I had headlight lights failure warning turned out to be the module screwed onto the bulb that had failed. I had a couple of spare ones, fitted, no mor eprobs. Headlight levelling I don't think was affected, just did not glow the bulb.

Bright? I have installed Osram Cool Blue Intense (nominally 5000kelvin) and they were a bit change relative to those ageing original D2S bulbs. At the same time I also re-aligned the headlights, they were too low really, so not fully benefitting from the xenon power previously. SOmehow factory settings tend to err on the side of caution and typically be too low

Well… I followed another thread I think on Passat world, and it seems like the 17 mm hex bolt means M16 bolt, while 27 mm socket bolt means M14 thread. I was about to return my kit (I bought 17 mm hex) as I Know that I have a 27 mm socket type bolt at present…. It looks like 4 pot engined models have the M16 and bigger engines have the 27 mm socket M14…. WHich makes sense in a way as mine is a V6 diesel and I do have a 27 mm socket type bolt (external hex), but it does not make sense why more power means weaker bolt Perhaps another VW student design! BTW the car failed the MOT today, not on the CV boots or (original done 146k miles lower arms) but one the nearside front upper arm, that I replaced around 40-50k miles ago (FEBI Bilstein)… surprised it lasted only this long, and I consider that a reputable brand, but then again the type of roads I sometimes drive on abroad…. I should take some photos and post on here, perhaps that's what did the damage…. Plus our UK drain covers and pot holes most of which tend to be about a foot from the kerb so that wheel gets a pounding. Easy enough DIY job though, glad I took the pinch bolts out in the spring and re-lubed them…. so new arm going in tomorrow. Well done my Skoda, 19 k miles this year, apart from regular oil changes (3 changes) has not cost me a penny this year, except for this arm. Happy owner.

Easier indeed with the 5 speed manual… I am about to do my 2nd auto trans oil change…. what a pain

Expensive!

No level indication exists. Must use VW specific oil, not generic ATF. Sealed for life design according to VW/Skoda/Audi, but recommended to change at 100-120 thousand km intervals or more regularly. The drain is easy. Filling is a specific procedure that requires the engine to be running, one man to sit in the car taking the box through the D, N, R, range to make sure all solenoids are getting purged of air and monitoring transmission oil temperature on VCDS/VAGCOM, while man number two is adding to the oil using a hand pump from underneath until it overflows, then stops, then tries a bit more etc, until the oil is at 35-40 deg C and the system is fully purged of air and the transmission oil is just about to overflow. At this point, keep running the engine, put the filler plug back into the casing, then shut engine down. Shutting down the engine before the plug is re-fitted will mean that some oil will be lost, and that will mean the level will be too low. Further notes; the car has to be level. The starting point of this work needs to be stone cold, otherwise you will run out of time, the system will not be properly purged and the target transmission temperature will be reached. Also while at it is takes minimal additional effort and makes all the difference in the world, drop the sump and change the filter too. It is less than 20 USD.

Yes in the photos it comes through as a lighter shade, and have seen them like that before, mine is a deeper shade of blue… and apart from a bit of lacquer peel on the roof on a small area, it is in good nick, seems like good paint quality now into its 14th year! Goodness, is it really that old!?!?

Gaz, was your Superb deep sea blue, like mine? My belts are due in a few thou miles too, now on 146k, but if I push to 80k interval then due at 156k, though I would be more comfortable changing sooner. Then the brake discs/pads would benefit from a refresh, CV boots (though CV joints are still OK, still originals!) need doing (not leaking just cracked), driver's side top mount needs replacing as it started knocking (did the other side 2 months ago, same symptoms), lower arms might need replacing both sides as rubber perished (as found out today), drop links are tired too or ARB bush not sure, brake hoses are cracked (MOT advisory last year and 20K miles ago), tyres have now gone noisy (35k miles on these Barums) so would benefit from 4x new corners, the auto tranny oil/filter change is now due too (can see in quality of gearshifts)…. Phew… And the 300GBP road tax is due end Sept too, so I would need to spend over a grand on the car in the next couple of months, but then that would give me another 2 yrs of motoring probably... Cornering HID is unmissable on my next car as an option to have... Regularly drive Mercedes company cars and they all have them, what a delight (auto dip and main beam is genuinely good too) at night, especially around tight bends. Super bright too, much better than the Superb's units (even with new-ish Osram CBI bulbs). Does the vRS have auto main/dip too?

I took the wheel off, and the current bolt is 27 mm socket. Febi catalogue for my car shows internal hex part too, so no clarification on the thread pattern but it might just fit. More concerning is that the rubber bush of the lower arm seems perished, so that's new arm(s) or re-bush it. At this mileage the ball joint is probably not in great shape anyway so might just bite the bullet and add this to the ever longer list of things to do...

For the last 2 years the MOT advisory has been cracked CV boots… so tempted to replace them now before the MOT is due on 27th August… Have bought two kits from ECP, but they came with bolts that are internal hex, and seem to be M15 threaded. Have I been sold a kit for the 4 cylinder engines, or does anyone know if the internal hex (17 mm) bolt will fit my V6? Currently I have some external hex bolts, but for the life of me and without taking the wheel off I do not know the size, and more importantly what thread size it is I won't know till I take the old one out, so any help is appreciated before I take the parts back to ECP and complain...

Congrats Gaz, nice new car! I must say I have been thinking about parting with my MK1, but considering how much effort I have put into keeping her running, I might get too emotional to let her go She is still ticking along nicely at 146k miles. Just been round another 4000 mile round trip to the Adriatic and back, she hasn't missed single beat, and at just over a Euro per litre of diesel this summer, she hasn't even had an expensive diet either! Anyway, enough rambling, enjoy the new car!

Well done mate! On the V6 TDI it is a 2 min job as the sensor sits vertically inside the vee.

Timing Belt season indeed. I have been shopping around for related bits for my 2.5. The 150000 milestone is quickly approaching! This year will have done 18k MOT to MOT. Unfortunately the timing belt bits are quite dear, close to £300 with water pump and thermostat. The latter definitely needing changingduento not holding temperature in colder months.

I use GM Dexos 2 which is fully synthetic 5W30 oil. Judging from the spotless carbon and sludge free appearance of my cams tappets and top end under cam cover area of the engine and the fact that somehow it is managing to keep alive an AYM still at 142000 miles that are renowned for cams wearing out, I'd say it is a good oil. Cheap too at £16 per 5 litres at a Vauxhall dealer with a trade card. This engine does NOT need 505.01 or 507.00 spec. But it does no harm. Dexos is in fact 505.01 compatible and use it in brothers remapped 1.9 TDI Seat again with no issues over many miles.

IMO it sounds like your mechanic has either messed up (can happen to the most experienced) or the box was not really as good as advertised!

The tiptronic box has a oooler. Best advice is change the oil and the filter every 50-60 thousand km, if you think it is running hot.

When I had droning noise, it was a pentagonal tyre. i.e. zigzagged Pirelli P7. Utter shait. Switched to Barum, been quiet last nearly 30k miles. But if it sounds really metallic, then it's the inner joint.

Not me. Are you sure the road/drive surface is level? Slightly sticky shock, perhaps rocking the car will level it out? Failing that, you have a dodgy shock. I think they are recharged with air, and if that has lost the preload it will sit lower. But then again I am not an expert on shocks.

Or perhaps he just has sticky door locks - like me. Bang the door with your fist as you press the lock/unlock button on the remote. Works most of the time for me. There are two distinct problems though. 1. sticky door mechanism. To prove it is sticky, try to open the said door (which is stuck on locked position) from the inside. If successful, door mechanism is sticky. Try greasing up. 2. deadlocks playing up. This is electronic/mechanical combined issue. The symptom will be that even though the car will be "unlocked", one particular door you won't be able to open from inside. The deadlock is stuck in locked position and this means trouble. Banging it helps in my case to get it open again. If the door refuses to lock, then unlock the car again, open the offending door and smash it closed, pressing the lock button on the key fob at the precise moment the door slams shut. May sound brutal, BUT it is free, and to do a full door lock strip and re-build will cost a grand, unless you are prepared to spent two weekends doing it DIY. These are old cars now, and the lead free solder is proving its weaknesses in poor connections, so sometimes vibration can just tickle it into life again. Good luck

What are your symptoms of problems? Mine had a flickering HID followed by a complete turn off and warning on the dash. Luckily I had the spare bits in my garage (and have some more if you are interested) so replacement was a 15 minute job the next day. In my case, the ballast/ignitor on the bulb was the problem, not the big unit screwed to the underside of the headlight.

I agree. Buy it back then get a decent panel beater to sort it out. Once you start cutting/welding it will never be the same again. There are very skilled craftsmen out there with the right tools and patience who could sort it out.

VCDS mileage comes from the ecu and is in km not miles. The discrepancy means that the ecu is donated from another car or the dash has been changed or the car has been clocked.

Well, nice car, enjoy it! Not sure I can go back to petrol, unless large displacement.

It is also interesting how a big portion of MK1 owners also consider same brand and models as potential mk1 replacements. I suppose we are all people valuing similar qualities in a car, and we all know the mk1 has some remarkable qualities. I, too, was looking at Mazda6. Is the Diesel engine actually made by Mazda or is it a Ford? Are te DPF problems of the previous generation eliminated?

My glow plugs are all pulling 20 Amps, they are all good. I'm double cycling them and that makes a difference, so they are probably past their prime, but still functional. BTW, I disassembled my spare injector yesterday and it is really easy. Just surprised how rough the needle is where it sits in the sac. I think I'll get all of my injectors spray pattern / pop pressure checked. By the way, the nozzle part number is DSLA142P1025.