Thompson2

When my 170 regenerated, the idle speed would increase from approx 850rpm to 1000rpm. The gear shift indicator would also prompt to change down gears to keep the revs up. If you don't have either of these happening before you turn off the engine, I doubt it it is regenerating. I found the VW fix made no difference to the frequency of regenerating.

I changed from a CR170 to a 1.4 L&K last November because the town miles I do were taking their toll on the DPF. The 1.4s are thin on the ground and I had to travel some distance to get it but am very happy with it. It doesn't have the solid punch the 170 had e.g when starting to accelerate from 30mph, but then it is 100NM less torque so no surprise. It still shifts and so quiet! The engine revs more readily than the 170 but the turbo assists from 1750revs so it doesn't need thrashing. Of course it does require more gear changes but then it's a petrol.I wouldn't describe it as buzzy. The accelerator pedal resistance is the same. Also, because the car is quiet, It doesn't intrude compared to the diesel chug. Having said that I am comparing a 7.5 year old 170 with a 7 month old 1.4. I recently had a merc 180 and Fiat Tipo as hire cars and preferred the response of the yeti engine (ok, I preferred the yeti in every aspect, but we are discussing engines here!). They also differ in that the heating system also works quicker. The 1.4 prioritises heating the water so the moving parts can get to operating temp asap (and thus the cockpit heater). At times when doing a lot of cold stop/starts I have noticed the water gets up to temp yet the oil temp display is still blank (under 50 degs). I still have to try towing my 1250kg caravan which I'm sure won't be so sprightly but everything is a compromise and I doubt it will struggle. I was just totally spoiled with the torque/weight ratio of the 170. One of the best things I hadn't appreciated before I bought it was the heated front windscreen. I start the car, push a button and by the time I have scraped the side windows, the windscreen is running water - great! I'm sure other will point out if I'm wrong but I believe the 1.8 had reliability issues and is more thirsty. Of course I'm biased as we all like to justify our own purchases! I hope this helps your deliberations.

Thanks Martin, it will certainly be mentioned although it't not worth a special trip and will wait for the next service. I had my last yeti for nearly 8 years so am familiar with this dealer, the better one in the area but not outstanding.

I count myself fortunate not to have wet carpets but I do have something awry that readers may be able to help with. The carpets are dry but the car steams up readily on a cold evening so there is damp somewhere. I get a gentle bubbling/popping sound from the rear corners of the sunroof which drew me to this posting. The frequency of the 'bubbling' increases as the fan speed is turned up. Open a door and the noise ceases so it seems to be associated with increased cabin pressure. All four of the sunroof drains pass water ok so are not blocked. I noticed that as I poured water down the front drains (the car was on a slope) they made the bubbling sound as of air rising up the drain pipes but I cant work out how this applies to the rear. It doesn't have to be raining and the sound can persist for tens of minutes, including when the car is parked nose down on my drive. The car is still under warranty but I doubt dealerships abilities when it comes to diagnosing issues not in the manual or diagnostics log so forewarned is fore-armed! Ideas welcome.....

My monster is fitted with a Wesphalia 13pin towbar, no factory prep (the dealer said it wasn't needed for 13 pin) and no extra button. The car was returned for some minor points to be rectified including the reversing sensors not disabling. The dealer said that they ommited to program the ECU when the towbar was fitted. I haven't checked yet but they say the revering sensors now disable, a picture of the 'van appears on the dash display but they cannot get the 'van bulb failure to work. I have also heard of this happening on Audis with 3rd party tow electrics

Hi George, I also don't like squeaks and rattles. My yaris rattled, my Jazz rattled, my golf plus rattled, my monster doesn't....yet! I t's the luck of the draw!

I got my monster back from the dealer yesterday who was sorting some poor loom routing and reversing sensors active when caravan coupled. The ECU had not been programmed that the car was equipped with a towbar. The sensors should be automatically decoupled when the electrics are connected. Their next hurdle is that the car doesn't confirm that the caravan lights are either working or not. I hope they get it right on my next visit - it's a 55mile round trip and i bought a 170CR monster, not a 1.2L 35k Fabia courtesy car!

I ordered the wheel/floor/jack back in feb, my dealer told me yesterday that there is a consignment on it's way to the UK and they can see it coming on their system!

I hope you have resolved your dispute with the dealer but just so you know, my monster was ordered from stock without the towbar prep and the Westfalia detatchable towbar fitted at the dealers. I have the pull out panel just like you describe.

I bought my monster ex-stock so didn't have the option of having a factory fitted spare wheel and ordered one as an extra. It is now 5 weeks since I collected the car and 10 weeks since it was first ordered with no sign of the wheel. I am told the problem is in getting the jack. How long has anyone else waited for the spare wheel/jack/floor if ordered as a dealer supplied extra?

Thanks TP, I thought the cornering fogs just angled like the headlamps do but now I understand!

The towbar was fitted at the dealers by a 3rd party fitter that they use for all their towbars. I expressed my concern at the time that it be done right as other VAG owners on my caravan forum had also had problems with 3rd party towbars. One Audi dealer had even removed the reversing light from the caravan to rectify a fault with the light being on all the time! A specialist towbar company changed the control box for a VAG one and all was resolved.

Whilst we are talking number of bulbs and function in the fog light unit. When I turn a tight corner, my cornering headlamps turn but also something in the fog light unit comes on to illuminate the inside path. I have turned my DLRs off so anyone know if it is the fog or DLR that is illuminating, or have I missed counting a bulb?

This is a very interesting topic and worth tracking because there seems to be loads of bad press about these DPFs which I hadn't cottoned onto before I bought. I only do urban short trips during the week and so am trying to give it a 15 min blast at constant 40/50mph each week. At the moment I am buzzing all over (average approx 100miles per week) and as summer approaches I'll be out and about with the caravan but come the winter, well, we'll see!

Hi Briskoda forum, I understood when I bought my towbar that factory fitted electrics were only needed for twin electrics. I had the Westphalia detatchable towbar fitted for £500. The car goes back after Easter because they jammed the wires under the bumper causing it to distort and foul the tailgate. Also the reversing sensor is not disabled when the electrics are connected to the caravan and only when I got home (the 'van is in storage) did I realise that the indicator did not bleep. Some extra work there then!