Simonbt

Wouldn't make a huge difference tbh, but the standard fabia vRS alloys are 16" (its the octy that has 17")

Welcome to Briskoda, Razzacee Do all the other lights work as expected? Sometimes lights can act weird when bulbs or fuses have blown. Otherwise you may be looking as something as simple as having a short in the rear light cluster (shorting from the rear sidelights to the reverse lights or something similar). Got a towbar or reversing sensors fitted? They may be causing shorts or issues. You'll do best posting onto your cars specific forum - http://briskoda.net/forums/forum/27-skoda-octavia-i/ Hope you find your answer!

Its not unusual to have a front setup that doesn't feature adjustable camber. You'll be looking at a more focused handling car for that sort of suspension setup (last one i messed around with was a S2000).

Mine has reversing lights on both sides (i'm 90% sure it does, don't reverse at myself too often though )

5000miles with the service light on... ouch. Its really important to keep the oil changed (and topped up) on these PD engines. I really hope you've not caused any lasting damage to the engine, best bet would be to VAGCOM it.

The 205s look like they are already fitted to wheels - thats gonna pull the sidewall in a little bit too.

1 hour for each side is completely reasonable, if a garage thinks it will take any longer they really aren't worth the effort.

There's so many different options you can take, its really entirely up to yourself. If you have a heap of money to throw at it, then just get amps, speakers etc and do it all at once. If you want to take things a bit slower (and cheaper) do things bit by bit. Replace the headunit and see what difference that makes to the sound, you will probably be suprised. Then follow these steps until you get the sound you're after: 1. Sound deaden the front doors, inner and outer skin with a few bits on the door card. You'll find this makes a HUGE difference to the sound quality from the front mids. 2. Replace the front mids and tweeters 3. Amp the front mids (get a 4ch amp for the next step) 4. Get yourself a Sub. Personally a 10" will probably be fine. Use the two remaining channels on the amp bridged for the sub 5. Sound deaden the boot, wheel arches, tailgate. You can do all these steps, or you might find the sound sounds great after just sound deadening. The OEM skoda speakers aren't really that bad if your not intending to amp them. Shallow fit speakers aren't a requirement, but do make life easy. I forget exactly what the maximum depth is, get an adaptor and try the speakers you pick. You can always shim out the adaptor with deadending material if you need anymore clearance. There really isn't a definate max depth, you'll need to measure it.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/21250-what-engine-oil-must-i-use-in-my-fabia-vrs/ Everything you need to know there in the thread directly above this one

The ultimate choice for me is whether to get Eibach springs, or those JOM coilovers. I think the coilovers are likely to last longer than me just replacing the springs as my oem dampers have seen 130k already and i think lowering springs on them will be the death of em. Just curious to see if the JOM coilies are going to be okay ride quality wise. Whiteline rarb is a definate purchase for me in the next month or so.

The ABS will only throw errors out if the rolling diameter on the wheels is different, as long as you keep them all the same and you could run rollerskate wheels

Love the front bumper, that's on my list of things to do once I do some research into getting it sprayed the right colour.

Mine both went within a day of each other last time!

If not worse to be honest - i had a issue with Nationwide Autocentres when the receptionist couldn't be bothered to get me prices for tires, even had the cheek to give me a telephone number to call when i got home so he didn't have to log into the systems. Strangly this was after discussing with him about prices for a full service and cambelt change on a Saxo. Really not very clever the people in that place, i mentioned to the manager on my way out that his receptionist had just talked the company out of £500. Doubt anything happened as a result though - wouldn't go there for an MOT, even if they offered to do it for free.

Just bought one myself - can't go wrong for 3 quid!

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: So true!

You get used to VRSSunroof. He is what you would describe as a bad internet troll :p He doesn't pay any attention to the thread, reads the last post and flames from that. He would have realised that this thread wasn't about being a boy racer, it was about someone wanting to get a little better out of their PD100. I myself want to get my car remapped, but maybe i'm a 30yr old boy racer with my little diesel car? Who knows, i'm sure he does :yes:

fail (the whole post, not just the crazy spelling) :p

If you're getting a set of a standard colour you may do well to get new ones anyway, mine were pretty grubby (and black) when i swapped them over, but my alloys are black at teh moment anyway so it doesn't make too much of a difference. Might be more obvious in silver alloys though.

I used my standard bolts from my steels on my 16inch vrs alloys without problems (mines a 1.9tdi, but doubt they use different bolts). Best thing to do is test it, you'll want the bolt to turn 360deg at least 5 times before tight.

You'll probably find the book 0-60 time is pretty far off, i'm sure my PD100 does it quicker than 11.5secs.

I'm guessing he's talking about a mk2

Check the other side, as long as both sides are the same polarity it won't really matter which way round you connect them. The fronts won't intefere with the rear speakers in a standard setup anyway.

How did the Eibachs compare to the standard? Were they a lot firmer?

Perfect, thank you! Yeh, i think i'll be going down the coilover route - I think the fact my current dampers have seen almost 130k is probably a good enough reason to replace the lot