Ratz

Member - Ratz Engine - 1.6 TDi DSG Model - Outdoor Easy (2015) Colour - Candy White Location - Italy From 2010 to 2015: Engine - 1.2 TSI manual Model - Ambition Colour - Aqua Blue

Had a replacement today: they installed the kit "03f 198 158 a" and I just paid the 30% of the material cost and the labour was free. My car is out of warranty, it has 4 years and 44000 km (I had 2 year warranty), but since I made the services they made the discount. The engine seems to run well, but indeed apart some occasional metallic starts it was good even before the fix...

It seems like the 1.2 and 1.8 have the same gearbox.

I confirm that my car is "gentler", now. The effect of the turbo was not progressive before putting the shim: often I saw the ASR light on when accelerating hard in 2nd or 3rd gear on slippery road. Now the engine is a bit more similar to an aspirated one and I have to manage it at higher revs; below 2000 rpm it is very weak, but in my opinion it is however a petrol unit which can arrive to 6400 rpm, so I am not concerned about it.

I had this adjustment almost a year ago. The turbo effect is more gradual, and enters at 2000 rpm instead 1500-1600 rpm. In a word, the motor is less diesel-like than before the intervention...

At 130 km/h = 3000 rpm in 6th. My average is 15 km/l (total km: 27000).

A strange thing is that every time I switch from summer to winter tires (or the opposite) the TPM activates (and I have to make a reset holding the button for a while), although it should not as all the wheels have -contemporary- the same diameter variation...

Mine, also, has a sort of "hiccup" just after a cold start. I note this behaviour vanishes when I use 100 octane fuel (now I use it regularly as I see less indicated consumption and more -my sensation, anyway- push at low revs). Bye

I strongly underline what jeep said. This is why I have no doubt in choosing the kind of service: extended, even with low miles/year. The less you visit garages the less probability of induced failures you have (I do not want to say that maintenance personnel is not capable: my idea is that each action -when not strictly needed- may have a drawback, as the Murphy's Law states...)

In italian I say "La yeti" (female).

Mine has variable service. I had to add half a litre after 13000 km. I buyed Castrol Edge 5/30 (as it is stamped on the oil cap). I guess that VW504 specification applies only to 5/30 fully synthetic oil. Bye, Ratz

Thank you. Nice to hear it was not a "catastrophic" failure... Bye. Ratz

Just to know, as I have a similar model and I touch iron (not wood being Italian...). What did it happen after the wastegate and turbo issue: only a power loss or the engine stop? Thank you. Bye, Ratz

Let consider that for a precise evaluation of the mpg in addition to the brim-to-brim refuelling also the distance should be measured not through the car's odometer but using a navigator (I see my odometer shows +3% distance than real with summer tires and +5% distance with winter tires than real). Bye, Ratz

Seat Altea XL

The 1.2 TSI can rev up to about 6000 well below the red line. So, IMHO if you go at 4000 you are at 2/3 of the maximum and the motor is not stressed. For years, cars' manuals stated that 2/3 or 3/4 of the maximum rev. speed can be maintained quite undefinetely. Although the maximum torque is from 1500 rpm (sincerely I am quite doubtful about it) I prefer going always over 2200...

In the topic "Engine Coolant Level" I wrote the below message. Check the right closure of the cap! Posted 11 September 2010 - 20:17 My today experience: liquid 2 millimeters below the minimum. While opening the cap I heard some pressurised air exit. This looked strange as the engine was cold. The liquid grew (I suppose due to the relief of the pressure) and set at 3 mm above the minimum, so I closed the cap without any addition. Closing the cap I noted a "click" and the upper slot positioned in the "road direction", BUT PREVIOUSLY, unscrewing the cap -I am sure- no click and the slot was transversal! So I suppose a wrong initial cap closing... Bye.

My 1.2 did not (up to now) drink oil. In the first 300 km I never went over 4000 rpm, but after I did some accelerations till 5500 rpm, let's say 1-2 times a week. Now, after 11000 km I go -sometimes- up to 6000 rpm (just below the redline). I think motors have to be trained even hard, but not in the early life. I made this on my previous cars and they worked fine but, as it is well known, a lot depends on luckiness...

Speed (km/h at different gears). I calculated it by knowing the max speed 173,2 km/h at 4850 RPM measured during a test performed by the magazine "Al volante" and the ratios of the gears (from 1 to 6): 3,615 1,954 1,281 0,973 0,777 0,646. In my opinion this table is very close to reality. RPM I II III IV V VI 1500 12 21 32 43 54 64 1600 12 23 35 46 57 69 1700 13 24 37 48 61 73 1800 14 26 39 51 64 77 1900 15 27 41 54 68 82 2000 15 28 43 57 71 86 2100 16 30 45 60 75 90 2200 17 31 48 63 79 94 2300 18 33 50 66 82 99 2400 18 34 52 68 86 103 2500 19 36 54 71 89 107 2600 20 37 56 74 93 112 2700 21 38 58 77 96 116 2800 21 40 61 80 100 120 2900 22 41 63 83 104 125 3000 23 43 65 86 107 129 3100 24 44 67 88 111 133 3200 25 45 69 91 114 137 3300 25 47 71 94 118 142 3400 26 48 74 97 121 146 3500 27 50 76 100 125 150 3600 28 51 78 103 129 155 3700 28 53 80 106 132 159 3800 29 54 82 108 136 163 3900 30 55 84 111 139 168 4000 31 57 87 114 143 172 4100 31 58 89 117 146 176 4200 32 60 91 120 150 180 4300 33 61 93 123 154 185 4400 34 62 95 125 157 189 4500 35 64 97 128 161 193 4600 35 65 100 131 164 198 4700 36 67 102 134 168 202 4800 37 68 104 137 171 206 4900 38 70 106 140 175 210 5000 38 71 108 143 179 215 5100 39 72 110 145 182 219 5200 40 74 113 148 186 223 5300 41 75 115 151 189 228 5400 41 77 117 154 193 232 5500 42 78 119 157 196 236 5600 43 80 121 160 200 241 5700 44 81 123 163 204 245 5800 45 82 126 165 207 249 5900 45 84 128 168 211 253 6000 46 85 130 171 214 258

1978 Autobianchi A112 1985 Golf GL 1.6 (I had it for 18 years...) 2003 307 1.6 2010 Yeti 1.2

Hello GiscoYeti, Many thanks (grazie mille!). I was wondering where the vibration originated (I had it from 2000 to 2500 r.p.m., and with low temperature): it seemed coming from the inner of the dashboard. Thank you to your simple but very effective adjustment I solved this issue! Bye, Ratz

About races at traffic lights there is an interesting video: "panda al semaforo".

In my last car I had Michelin Alpin, this year I purchased Pirelli Sottozero: I have sincerely to say that in my opinion the advantage on snow is far higher than the declared 19%. This is also confirmed by several videos showing the difference between summer and winter tyres: the one with the BMW X3 is indicative!

I think that braking is the real problem in snow/ice: in this condition both an AWD and an FWD behave more or less the same (a difference might be due to the different weight and mass balancing, anyway). Only winter tires can give you more safety in downhill. Bye.

Yes, I too have only two sizes in the fuel flap, but in the document of the car the size 205/55/16 is listed indifferently for summer or winter use...