RS3100

While the RS3100 was out of the garage having its pictures taken for the insurance renewal, I thought I'd see if the Superb would fit in and much to my surprise it did . Even if I did have to fold the mirrors in to fit between the door frame. Unfortunatly I couldn't get out With an up and over door I have found that unless the car is a saloon or hatchback, the garage door won't close unless the car is reversed in. This meant that with the bumper about 1/2 inch from the back wall so no escape via the boot and the doors wouldn't open far enough for me to get out because of the intrusion from the garage wall pillars. So if you want to keep your Superb Combi garagaed overnight, you need something a little wider than a standard width single UK garage

It basically comes down to who you have the contract with. I got compensated for the delay for my Superb becasue my contract was with Skoda UK as I was paying for the car in full once delivered. If my wifes Octavia L&K goes over 18 weeks I would have to negotiate any compensation with Skoda Finance as we are paying for the car on the VAT Free / Interest Free deal. Skoda Uk and Skoda Finance are effectivey run as two different companies in that Skoda finance order the car from Skoda UK and until all finance is paid I will only be the registered keeper rather than keeper and owner. Your contract is with Lex Autolease who have entered in to a contract with Skoda to supply you with a car, so you might be able to get something through Lex.

Ocatvia seem to be in demand, it seems the Ocatvia L&K orderd for my wife will take the same time as the Superb I took delivery of in November which was a 24 week wait.

On my Superb, this only happens if the recirculate is in either manual or auto modde. If I ignore this setting, screen never fogs up that bad.

looked at mine at the weekend and it is only the left shock top mount corroded and it sist directly under the plastic grill at the base of the windscreen, so the top moint gets a liberal covering of salty water from the screenwash runoff. The other is shielded more and doesn't get anything on it.

Wheels straight at cross roads, car hits you in the back you can be pushed in to the flow and hit from the left and right side. Wheels straight in que of traffic you get pushed into the car in front. Roundabout car hits you from behind and you are pushed into the traffic already on the roundabout. Sorry M8, don't think I am getting mixed up but you are right, turning right in the UK or left on the continant you should keep wheels straight soa rear end shunt doesn't push you in to oncoming traffic.

In the UK, the Institute of Advanced Motorists, Driving Standards Agency, Traffic Police and so on recomend that if you are stationary for more than 10 seconds that you should apply the handbrake and put the car in neutral. Nothing to do with parts over heating but to prevent you being pushed into the flow of traffic should the car behind fail to stop and run in the back of you. Or if you foot was to slip off the clutch or brake the car wont lurch into the flow of traffic.

I had this occur without going into any of the settings. When I tried the window drop function by holding the unlock button only the passenger side windows would go down and this was the case for all the remotes I have for the car. It was fixed my manualy folding the morrors in and out followed by raising and lowering each window a couple of times inturn. Then everything worked as it should from the remotes again.

For years I used Copper Grease but over time I noticed that is was scoring the sliders due to the flecks of copper being a bit course. There are now specialist greases for lubricating brake parts and since using them I've never had a problem with sticking sliders or the piston rubbers perishing. There is a typo in my original post, it was meant to say I never use copper slip. As I said, I've found it to score the sliders, all but one of my cars do megga miles and I don't change them that frequently.

A sticking pad and uneven pad wear can give a vibration through the pedal, had this on many cars. When replacing the pads on other cars, I renove the caliper fully and use proper brake greese (never used copper slip) and lube up what I can. Piston seals should be OK, my RS Capri has the original discs and calipers and is now 37 years old and on original caliper piston seals. Toyota is now at 140K miles and still on orginal discs and calipers, early sign that pads will need replacing is a slight vibration on braking. The only discs I have ever had to replace on a car was on a Laguna after 80K miles because the numpty of a previous owner had removed the pad warning wire, so no warning of a brake pad problem until it scored the disc and on an Escort Cosworth that had grooved discs which were great for trapping small stones between the groove and pad, so cracking pads which then scored the disc. I've had to replace the discs on freinds cars that have had the same problem.

An old cavalier of mine kept fogginf up afetr a windscreen replacement. Could never find a leak auntil the car ground to a halt. Inspection found that water had leaked past the screen seal due to a badly replaced windscreen. The water had ran down the inside of the A piller trim and behind the dash and dripped down on to the ECU which eventually shorted out. Autoglass paid for the replacement screen and new ECU. Where there is no leak, I have found that keeping with windscreen really clean on the inside reduces the amount of condensation, the water vapour needs a nucleus to condense on, so clean grease free window greatly reduces this problem. For the past 10 years, the cars of mine that have air con have been run with it permanently switched off. I have done several fuel comaprisons like running a car for a couple of weeks with no air con and measuring the overall fuel economy between briiming the tank, to the point I have used the same garage and the same pump so the only variable is the weather and if I use air con or not. Overall on the cars tested, 1995 Cavalier CDX, 1993 Escort RS Cosowrth, 1998 Laguan RT and a 2000 Avensis GS, there has been no significant differance, in that the overall test average when compared is within 1 mpg (approximatly 12 miles on a tank), sometimes no air con was better some times with aircon it was better. Other benefit is the refigerant loss is much reduced so save on regassing and no smells from bacteria growth in the air con system that builds up over time due to moisture build up which occurs when you swith between the two modes. Start with cleaning all the windows, it's the cheapest starting point.

Try unlocking the car and go round all the windows one by one and open/close them a couple of times. Then see what happens on the remote. Over Christmas my car wouldn't fold the mirrors in on the remote, but it was fine on the mirror switch and if I tried to drop the windows using the open butto on the remote, only the passenger side would open. Doing the above seems to have reset the system and it has been working finr for the past 3 weeks. I was sure it wasn't a remote issue on my car as I have three remotes, my wife and father each have a remote in addition to myself, so what are the chances of all thre remotes having the same problem?

Had mine two months now and it stays where I left it. It doesn't take much of a touch on the thumbwheel on the steering to change to the next display.

Do you know the name of the person you spoke to at Skoda UK? everyone I have spoken to there says it is nothing to do with them and can only be done via the dealer, now I'm confused :S

From the August 2010 brochure I have, the Maxi Dot is an option on the Elegance but standard on the L&K.

Compensation is in the form of 1) M&S Vouchers 2) Skoda accessories or merchandise 3) Discounted service Over 18 weeks is £150 and 25 weeks £300 My Superb was 24 weeks andm y dealer is only a small outfit and wouldn't do the accessories, they did it before for some customers and it took them 6 month for Skoda UK to pay them back and I have heard of many other cases like this. The new cars don't need servicing for some time unless you do high miles. I went for the vouchers as it was the only option available to me and 2 months on, I am still waiting for their arrival. Skoda Uk will only give my dealer an e-mail adress to try and follow up the issue and when I called Skoda Uk, they said it has nothing to do with customer services and all they can do is give me the same e-mail adres that they gave my dealer. Go for the accessories if you can, otherwise you'll be wasting your time IMHO.

Don't know if the Maxidot set up is the same as the Superby, but you get Total mileage travelled and two trip meters. One for each journey that restes each time you start a journey if there has been a gap (unsure of the time gap though) and another for overall trip which you can reset manually. I think to flip between the two you just pres the thumb wheel on the steering wheel.

If the car was orderd with a spare as an optional extra, then that is the contract that was entered into. Delivering the car without the spare means the contract hasn't been fulfilled so under the Sale of Goods Act and the Supply of Goods and Services Act there is a legal obligation for the dealer to supply the car exactly as you ordered it. My understanding is you can accept the car (can't help with you question regarding the alloy) on the understanding that your dealer will supply the spare and tyre free of charge (afterall you have already paid for it in your order) or refuse to accept the car until the contract is fulfilled in full. Skoda do put on all the sales literature that they reserve the right to change the specification without notice, but this only applies to the standard car, so when you place the order, you are agreeing to this fact. If you order any extras, then my understanding is that the optional items can't be removed without first consulting the customer.

This happens when the air con is only used rairly. When the heater and chilling is without the aircon, condensation can build up on the ducting pipes and microbes grow. When the aircon is used, the air is dehumidified and drys all the pipes and as it does so, you get the smell from the microbes. The process is essentially the same as that that generates our body odour if we don't use an anti persperant/deoderant. Easily fixed with stuff from Halfords. Change the pollen filter. Check the system is fully gassesd - Air-con Measure & Charge £49.99 Deoderise - Air-con Cleaner £11.73 The cleaner works by running the car with the vents open in recirculate mode and the air-con on, you release the canister and shut the door and leave it for about 10 - 15 minutes from memory. Obviously you stand outside so you don't fumigate yourself! Easy to prevent reoccurance, either always run the air-con; I've run my car for a week with no air con and measured the fule economy and done the same the following week with the aircon on all the time with no change in economy. OR run the air con for about 5 minutes at least once a month to flush the system through. I get my cars air con checked every year for free, the local auto center have a summer offer that if you present the advert from the local free paper, the check is for free. The only time you pay is if something needs doing, I only had to do this the first time I used the offer because the valve wouldn't close after they checked the system. Only cost £25 to get fixed (admitedly 5 years ago) and was the first time the car had an aircon service by which time the car was 5 years old.

Good luck in getting the compensation, my Superb took 24 weeks to arrive and two months on still calling the Dealer and Skoda Uk to see where my M&S vouchers are :'( Now waiting on the wifes Octavia, but at least I am saving money to pay for more of the car up front and it's still VAT free and the 2010 price. These cars are really worth the wait hence biting the bullet and ordering another knowing full well how long the wait would be. According to Skoda's web site and my dealer the extended VAT free is for Petrol cars only.

Quite a few people have said the the 4x4's are made in germany alongside the Passatt which explains why the 4x4's are coming through far quicker than the rest of the Superb line.

The rule of thumb that I was taught by the Institute of Advanced Motorists was that with arms out straight (but relaxed), your wrist should rest on the top rim of the steering wheel. When I get into any car, I get the seat comfortable as; 1) Move the seat forward/back so that when the clutch is fully depressed, my leg is still bent. 2) Adjust the seat height so that there is gentle support on my leg when the clutch is depressed. If my leg pushes down into the seat base when using the clutch, the seat is too high and leads to leg pain when doing loads of gear changes. 3) Adjust the seat back so it is comfortable. 4) Move the lumber support so that it can just be felt touching my lower back. 5) Adjust the steering wheel height/rake/reach so that with arms out straight (but relaxed), your wrist should rest on the top rim of the steering wheel. 6) Adjust the head rest so that the center of the back of your head is in the middle of the headrest. (a correctly adjusted headrest can prevent whiplash) So for me this gets seating sorted relatively quickly and I find in all but the new Renaults and People Carriers that the gearleaver falls nicely to hand. This was taught to me by my physio 20 years ago after a major car crash (third party loosing control on a straight road!) when I started driving again and found it impossible to get a comfortable driving position. She said (and the IAM agree) that in addition to being the correct seating posture, this means no joints are in a dead straight position, so should I be in a collision, the joints act as a shock absorber rather than piling into each other. Other than whiplash, most injuries she treated were where the thigh bone had been pushed into the pelvis and dislocated shoulders from where the the whole arm had been pushed back into the shoulder blade. The only other car that I have owned that comes close to the Superbs seat comfort was my SAAB 9000, the SAAB 95 isn't as good.

After getting a Superb for myself, the wife asked for a new car and opted for the Octavia L&K hatch. I meant to measure this when we placed the order before Christmas and forgot What is the distance from the ground to the top of the boot sill? What is the width between the wheel arches, preferably as close to the rear seat as possible? Thanks in advance for your help. Gareth

Past couple of cars have had life shine products which are usually only warrentied for 5 years. My wifes Rebault at 12 years and 110000 miles with no life shine showed its age depsite regular cleaning and polishing. My Toyota at 11 years and 140000 with life shine and cleaned as regular as the Renault and you could tell the difference, the Toyota had far less scratches and the paint didn't go as dull. Both were metalic finishes. In our house we use whichever car is first on the driveway, so I use the wifes car as much as she uses mine, so the annual mileage is comparable and how the cars are driven. Over 5 years it is worth the money but no substitute for regular cleaning and polishing but it does compliment it.

Faced with the choice of being hit by a car head on or trying to get out the way what would you do? Me, I would do my best and get out the way so if this makes me an idiot for trying to avoid an accident through others inability to drive according to the conditions then an IDIOT I AM AND PROUD! Never said I rely on the handbrake, what I rely on is good driving skills and driving according to the conditions. The Institute of Advanced Motorists seem to think I am a good driver as I have past the test twice, I did the test again just to see if any bad habits had crept in from the first time I passed and none had so this IDIOT must be doing something right :p For anyone wanting to learn how to drive a car in adverse conditions, the IAM run some very good courses on skid pans to learn various avoidance techneques. As for infront of the police, yes in a private car park behind barriers prior to competing, what annoyed the police was that they had seen me drive the car to the event as I used to drive the rally car to events, commpete and drive home again, they just wanted to make sure what happend in competition stayed in competition.