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Slamby

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Everything posted by Slamby

  1. It's a lovely looking car, and I especially like the colour of the alloys. Then I saw the mudflaps, and had to gouge my eyes out with a spoon.
  2. They might fit the smaller gasket if it's under warranty, so that's one option I suppose. Most dealers don't seem to even acknowledge the Bacon Lettuce & Tomato stutter, and tell you it's meant to be that way, or is completely "normal". One service manager told me he couldn't notice any difference between a car that had the revised gasket fitted, and one that hadn't. I can tell you I bloomin' well notice the difference when the EGR is taken out of the equation. I still don't like the idea of any EGR going on, especially when combined with the oily air from the CCV. Don't see why anyone would bother fitting a delete pipe: costs money to buy, and time to fit; a 5p ball bearing does the same job; and getting rid of the EGR valve completely means you lose the anti-shudder, so your engine mounts take a hammering. Warning light needs to be mapped out either way, so I don't see any pros, and quite a few cons. I might be missing something though. Engine light can be mapped out, but I'm not sure if VCDS can do it or you need it done via the ECU. Reached the limit of my knowledge on that one I'm afraid. :S
  3. First things first, do a simple test, and take the vacuum hose off the top of the EGR valve, and plug it with something like a golf tee, bolt, ball bearing etc to make it airtight. Drive around for a bit, ignoring the warning light on the dash, and see if it cures the stutter. It should be pretty obvious that the car is smoother and has better throttle response at light loads. If this cures the stutter, you can either get the EGR turned down via VCDS, or fit the gasket, or just keep the tube blocked off permanently, and get the warning light removed. Can't remember, but if it's a 9mm gasket (?), I think it needs to be drilled out to 12-14mm, otherwise you'll get the warning light anyway. Seems like a lot of potch to me, and there's something to be said for having no EGR, so I'm shoving a 5.5mm ball bearing down my pipe (fnarr), and replacing it on the EGR valve so it all looks stock/kosher. Then I'm going to get the warning light removed. I put the EGR back into operation the other day, just to see, and it drives like a pile of poo, so it's def a mod worth doing, and is totally reversible.
  4. My 07 SE just needed bushes doing at the 40k mark, so still affected by the crap bush design. Not sure of the cost breakdown, as I had other work done at the same time. Bushes are cheap enough at around about the £8 each mark, and then you're looking at 2-3 hours labour to fit I guess. £150-£200? At an independent. New bushes are redesigned, so should in theory be much better, but Skoda say they haven't been out long enough to get reliable data yet. You could always go for Cupra or Polybush ones if you;re really concerned.
  5. Oh I know. I'm quite prepared for a few rattles. I'm just pleasantly surprised there's only one at the moment, and it would be good to get rid of it so at least I have a little while of total peace! I shall have a look at the products listed and see if I can fix it. I did have a little rattle in the centre tunnel that was annoying the hell out of me. Undid some screws etc to get under there, couldn't find much, resat the plastic and screwed it down again, and it hasn't rattled since. Result!
  6. Mine does this, and I haven't been able to isolate exactly where it's coming from. Almost seems to be inside the glovebox door itself, so maybe something in the latch mechanism is loose. If you press the door shut, and apply some pressure, the rattle seems to go away, so not sure what I can do to fix it. It's annoying, as its the only rattle I've got at the moment.
  7. Marvellous. That's exactly what I was thinking of. Many thanks. Edit: Although I had in my head as a PDF, so that probably didn't help with the search on my PCs/here. :S Edit 2: And there's no bullet points. Funny how what you think you remember and what is actually there is different!
  8. While browsing the forum, I'm sure someone linked to a single sheet list of what needed checking/doing on the various service intervals for the Fabia. The checks were down the side, and the service intervals were in columns, with bullet points where it needs to be done. I thought I'd saved it off, but can't find it, and do you think I can find it on the forum now? Can I heck. I'm usually pretty good at finding stuff like this, but I've admitted defeat. If anyone has a copy, could you attach or link to it please? Ta.
  9. This is interesting, as a friend has the same car as me, but I have more wind noise from the back than he does. I couldn't figure out why that might be, but reading this, maybe the back doors just need a bit of a tweak?
  10. Part you want is 1160600000/HD: Meyle Stabiliser Link - Skoda FABIA (6Y2) 1.9 SDI (FR/MYX) Goto Express Car Parts, and put your car details in. Then select Steering & Susp. Components and do a text search on 1160600000/HD. £11.66 inc VAT. Can't do a direct link, sorry, because of the way their website works.
  11. Well, seeing as my bushes were shot after 40k miles on the standard setup, I can't see how it could get much worse. I doubt there would be a noticeable difference, but can't say for sure. Perhaps someone who's done loads of miles on lowered springs will be able to comment. Skoda have apparently changed the design of the bushes twice since the originals. The jury's out on whether the latest design has drastically improved bush life, as they've not been out long enough to get decent data and feedback.
  12. Yeah, I'm very pleased with it; feels a lot better on the road. Perhaps a little more bouncy, but either it's settling a bit or I'm getting used to the slightly changed behaviour, as I've not noticed it the last few days. Overall, I think it rides and handles much better, and a lot less like a barge. I was concerned it'd be hard and crashy, and it so isn't. Less crashy than the standard springs I would say. Well, on the roads I drive on anyway. Hope you had a good time at CC.
  13. Before: After: Subtle, but noticeable difference. Looks absolutely perfect now IMO.
  14. IIRC, the thread I'm thinking about mentioned Meyle HD parts, which are more rugged, and come with 4yr warranty. Is this the thread? Clicky This the text you wanted?
  15. I'll throw a D3 into the mix, just for a laugh. Would have been fairly easy to spot though, from the big wheels to the different front spoiler.
  16. Even though 507.00 is the newer spec? Not arguing, just looking for info before I dictate to my garage what oil to use on the service.
  17. I think they'd look good in a mid anthracite colour. Do 17s reduce the ride quality that much then?
  18. Should say so on them somewhere. Try the back of the wheel.
  19. I'll be after a set of those wheels when funds allow. Not sure of ride quality on 17s, so might have to opt for the 16s. Fabulous shine you've got on the paintwork. What have you used on it? I'm assuming it's been machine polished/buffed? Does need lowering, as already mentioned. Only about 25mm or so though. All in all, great looking car.
  20. Have an idea of 50mpg in your head, and it prob won't be far wrong. You'll get 48 or 52 sometimes. Just don't trust the trip computer. A brim to brim calc is the only accurate measure.
  21. A bit too bright for my liking, but I'm an old codger too! I would admire you if you decided to go for it though. I'd got for standard silver alloys, or maybe a little darker like anthracite or similar. It's your car though, and what you like is all that matters.
  22. Vauxhall Nova 1.3 SR Vauxhall Nova 1.6 GSi Golf Mk4 1.8T GTI Lexus IS200 BMW Alpina B3 3.3 Alfa 145 QV 2.0 16V Toyota Aygo 997ish CC 3 Cylinder Skoda Fabia vRS (the one I have now)
  23. 37 :( Only upside is that insurance is cheap(er). When I was 19, the car to have was a Vauxhall Nova 1.3 SR. 75 whole HP, no power steering, no electric windows or central locking, no ABS or traction. Great little car. Mine was banana yellow, with a very tasteful (!?) brown check interior. Kids these days blah blah blah......
  24. I ran Michelin Primacy Alpin on my 145 QV, and they were great. Put them on when the temp consistently had a Max below 10C, and took them off when it was consistently over 10C. Their performance degrades once over about 7C they reckon, but well worth fitting for British winter, especially if you're in a remote area or often drive on less than perfect roads. Winter tyres aren't cheap though, and you're best having a spare set of wheels for them too, which adds to the cost. Vredestein Snotrac's are supposed to be pretty good too. Not sure who makes a tyre of the right size for the Fabia though, as can't afford a set of wheels and tyres at the moment. I'm hoping last year's snow was a one-off, and its a lot milder this time around. Winter tyres aren't just for snow mind.
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