midnight sun

Had that noise for years and so have many drivers including Audi and others. If is sounds like a squeal, then let the clutch out more gently and also more aggressively and you may find it doesn't happen (or not to the same extent). I've found, that as asbestos is no longer used in clutch discs, the new materials can cause this noise (resonating) till they 'warm' up. You may find that it only happens in first and reverse and only when starting off. It's because of this material and you are hitting the 'sweet spot' regularly as you let the clutch out. I've posted about this before and people didn't believe me (including the 'mechanics') and said it was duel mass clutch failure. Well mine is still fine (no flywheel change, which sounds nothing like a squeal in any case). I'm not saying I'm 100% right, but I suggest you try my theory and see what happens before you go off to the dealer and get a nice big bill. Hope this helps. Regards Dave

Hello Onyx123 Yes I have come across what I believe may be the problem, You will have front wheel spin but no warning lights on the dash. The only time you know of a problem is when you cannot get grip. The vcds readout if you can get one done may show 'intermittent fault on clutch pump located on the rhs of the haldex unit. You may get a code "11" in the readout. Although many post that the pump is dead and needs replacing, don't jump the gun! If you drain the fluid (Haldex only not the 'diff'' oil) and then remove the two allen bolts on the pump flange, you can carefully pull the pump back out of it's mounting. (be careful not to pull the wire too much,{there is a clip holding the wire to the case which can be pulled out of it's socket to give you some slack}) You will then see at the 'front' of the pump a gauze type filter. There is every chance at your mileage that this simply has a build up of sludge that is stopping the pump drawing in the fluid it requires and thereby throwing up a 'fault'. Carefully and gently clean off this sludge so the fluid can flow again. Then reassemble and fill the case with the correct oil as per maintenance schedule. Then zero the fault code and try it. This may well cure your problem and save you nearly £200 on a new pump. If you cannot test it with a vcds, then know that the engine must be started to run the pump. (at least 400 revs needs to be sensed to trigger the pump). Sorry if the post is a bit rushed but it's been a long day. Hope this helps. Post if it does as it could save quite a few owners some grief and stop a few dealerships taking owners to the cleaners! This is a common fault and Haldex know about it. Regards Dave

Usual practice from what I've seen. Being invisible must have some perks I should imagine. LOL

Staff change round again? IF........ they have improved, it's about time! Maybe the 'elderly gent' had experienced some of their 'not so good' service?

The vacuum from manifold is not strong enough for the brake servo system I am told so they put a 'vac' pump on and if it is only for a few seconds at first start up it could be the pump getting up to negative pressure level.

Had mine looked at today. Not the DMF, so happy and will put up with squeak, which stopped on it's own yesterday! Quiet clutch bite now.(till next time of course!) Sods Law!

Been looking around the net for anything on dual mass flywheel failure. The 'consensus of opinion' from the petrol head fraternity suggests that you would get a knocking or clattering noise at tick over, start up and even at low cruising speeds. I don't get any of that on mine. Neither do I get judder at low revs that is suggested by most posters. They also say it gets noisier if you dip the clutch at tick over. I must admit, I'm still not sure about all this as mine is smooth and quiet except at clutch bite point as I initially move off. Doesn't give any other 'symptoms'. Will keep looking! :think:

Just had a look at manual and you are right about the clutch system being DMF Kenny. Oh dear! Hope I'm right about the clutch lasting though or it's going to be an expensive future! Regards Midnight Sun

Duel mass flywheels are on diesels to the best of my knowledge, not petrol which are the cars in question though. Also the noise only happens in first or reverse. (basically moving off). Hence my 'theory' for the noise. What do you think Andy? Ideas? Like I said even Skoda mechanics have been puzzled and often cannot replicate the noise in the garage. It's a b*gg*r!

Mine has done this on and off for a couple of years. I'm led to believe its the pressure plate and spring assembly, resonating at the bite point. Only way to cure it is to replace clutch apparently. You may find it does not happen if you let the clutch out more gently or more harshly as you miss that 'sweet spot' that allows this 'shudder' of the plate at this annoying frequency. Apparently apart from the noise there is nothing to worry about and the clutch should last a 'normal lifetime'. I found this problem on other car forums from 'low cost' cars, right up to the 'BIG bucks' bracket. There is a theory that it's caused by the modern clutch plate material used today as the old asbestos formula is now banned. If it's any consolation mine is also a 1.8 TSI 4x4 and I no longer bother about it. I'm not an expert mind, so someone may come up with a another 'theory', but it has baffled the Skoda mechanics as well as everyone else! Hope this is of some use to you. Regards Dave

Mine has done this on and off for a couple of years. I'm led to believe its the pressure plate and spring assembly, resonating at the bite point. Only way to cure it is to replace clutch apparently. You may find it does not happen if you let the clutch out more gently or more harshly as you miss that 'sweet spot' that allows this 'shudder' of the plate at this annoying frequency. Apparently apart from the noise there is nothing to worry about and the clutch should last a 'normal lifetime'. I found this problem on other car forums from 'low cost' cars, right up to the 'BIG bucks' bracket. There is a theory that it's caused by the modern clutch plate material used today as the old asbestos formula is now banned. If it's any consolation mine is also a 1.8 TSI 4x4 and I no longer bother about it. I'm not an expert mind, so someone may come up with a another 'theory', but it has baffled the Skoda mechanics as well as everyone else! Hope this is of some use to you. Regards Dave

HB Panelcraft was the company that Simpsons suggested I try AFTER they changed their mind about doing my paint job which had been booked in for over a week. The price was £380-00 as opposed to Simpsons original quote of £230-00. Slightly higher!!......Looks like they are 'handing off ' jobs to HB! Maybe Simpsons just want quick service and odd warranty jobs? More money in it? Perhaps a change in policy along with change in management? One of life's mysteries........

They usually have a regular 'paint man' under contract to them, or that's the way it used to be as I understood it. Why book you in, or offer the service if this is the result? Now HERE is a body repair shop. (Hope this works!) http://autobotanik.livejournal.com/31952.html Paste this link into your browser. Some paint chip eh?

Well..........I did say........ When Phil was service manager there was no problem with paint jobs as I recall. Maybe the money was not enough....or....they are too busy doing services on Yeti's.......but not mine. LOL Time you found another 'garage' me thinks? Regards Midnight Sun

Well blow me! Just had a call from Simpsons to let me know my service is due and would I like to book it now with them over the phone. (Was due June, so a bit late, 3 months on) Looks like they can't 'meet my standards' on a paint job (See previous post, didn't want my custom then! ) but can with a service. Must be quiet this time of year. Now let me think if I want them to do my service...................................

Give them time!

Had an odd event occur myself just recently. Bought a Yeti from them 3yrs ago. Phil Wadsworth was service manager then. Good with customers and had a sense of humour. All service staff seems to have changed in the last 2 yrs. and now seems to have all the charm of a doctors waiting room! (Bring back Phil!) Anyway had some 'good' service from them over the years, Oddly enough, just gave them a glowing report via Skoda's feedback system after a recent visit, although that may have been a pre-mature. I approached (10/6/13) them to repair a small dent in top of body(elastic 'bungie' recoil!!) and Simon from service desk reckoned £225-00. Slight intake of breath, but then Phil's replacement (Jamie Fletcher) had a look and quoted £230-00. Thought I better book it before it went up another £5 LOL. Booked it in for Mon 24/6/13. Then just before due date Simon called me and said they would have to cancel the job as they could not guarantee the 'quality' of the job would be up to my "exacting standards" and they recommended a local body shop. (Even higher cost!) Simon mentioned possibility of 'orange peel' (fluid in line, usually oil from compressor causes that and is beginners stuff for a body shop paint guy). I suspect it was not Simon's call but was from a higher source. I should point out that they were aware of me taking on a repair company and causing plenty of grief after truly appalling service throughout. ( Still got the paperwork) One of my customers actually ended up doing the job to my "exacting standards" and no where near their prices. Now 3yr warranty has run out and it's overdue for the 3 year service and they usually contact me and they haven't so I guess they don't want my business any more. LOL Know a 'Roomster' owner that experienced this sort of strange behaviour and met an Octavia owner with similar tales only last week. What are the odds? So I guess from this experience, I can only conclude, that things have changed down in Preston and your fine with them, as long as you are not too fussy! Or have I got it wrong? Answers on a postcard................. P.S. Already lined up new 'service' contact who teaches this sort of stuff every day. No worries then! Kettle on then..............

If you take off the head rest and then lift the seat up slightly and not only let the back fold forward as normal but press it firmly down toward the seat part , you will hear another click and the seat folds even further (and therefore 'flatter' or 'thinner'). this will allow the seat to fold upright as it gives more clearance without hitting the centre console. Its not mentioned in any manual and I'm not sure the dealers are aware of this. Regards to all from Midnight Sun