bobspark

Replaced the glow plug bridge with the Metzer one from AUTODOC. I assume the plastic just got brittle over time with engine heat and with our army tank testing roads just broke. Found out why there are two cables the glow plugs are connected in pairs. Also had to strip back the taped loom a bit to get enough cable to pull out for connection. I have been having trouble with cold starting in freezing conditions ie it starts but only just. I dare say what I've done with make no difference to the problem bar elimination of two suspects. Picture of old one below showing broken ends .

I wonder if anyone has changed the glow plug rail harness on a 1.9tdi BSW engine. I found on mine whilst checking the resistance values that the plastic ends on two of the glow plugs had snapped off leaving just the copper connection exposed to the top of the glow plug . All the information tells me that the correct replacement is Glow Plug Cable Repair Set METZGER Fits SEAT Cordoba SKODA VW 00-10 6Q0971220A which comes with a long length of wire and plug attached.I don't think I need the plug as the wiring to the existing rail disappears into the main loom.So I'm wondering if I can get away with a less than half price alternative from Amazon which is the Jandra Car Glow Plug Rail Bridge Wiring Harness for- 1.9 TDI 038971782B which may fit and has no plug? My intention is to splice and solder the wires together and cover with heat shrink. A two wire affair I'm assuming one wire is for power and the other a sensor but I cannot find anything to confirm that. With some trepidation I have carefully replaced the glow plugs (88k miles) using a small low vale torque wrench set to 15nm and after two months of spraying penetration fluid on top of the glow plugs. Just need to sort out the harness.

Yes spoke to my neighbour in passing the other day and he said two cars with wet belt engine failures had been in the garage in the past week ,one a ford the other a Citroen and both written off due to high cost of engine replacement. It seem to me that if you have one of these cars the best thing to do is change the oil yourself every year with the correct oil ,and don,t put and additives or engine flush in the engine. It also seems with the PSA group engines that you can at least check the condition of the belt by removing the oil filler cap. There is also a comb like tool to check belt wear you can use. As I said to my neighbour ordinary punters like me are completely unaware of this problem.

Thank you xman nice to know.

Its only in the last month or so I have learnt about wet cam belts in Fords and PSA group engines and the consequent failures leading to early engine destruction . For instance the Ford Eco boost is nicknamed the Eco boom in the motor trade.If you goggle wet belts the answer suggests VW use them in some of their engines although I cannot find any specific details .So does anyone know which if any VW engines use wet belts? Perhaps this why my neighbour who works in reception at an independent repair garage said all modern cars are rubbish and designed to fail stick with your secondhand Skoda Roomster you've had for 13 years. That said I'm always looking for a replacement for the Roomster should it go pop on me and want to make sure its not a wet belt engine.

Many thanks just what is needed. I have HAYNES ONLINE manual but I cant recommend it as you cant beat a proper written manual. Also used to have manuals on disc but support ran out for them.

Car electrics are a bit of a mystery to me ,all I can suggest a good place to start is looking at earthing points around the car to check they are tight. Hopefully someone can come up with a better answer. Good luck.

Well done gold star to you. Thanks for letting us know.

I was considering how to update my lash up of a Tom Tom ,Aldi DAB RADIO and dash cam fixed by elastic band to the interior mirror .One option I came across on e-bay was the Eonon Q53pro head unit specifically suited for the VW family for a cost of about £250 which included dash/rear camera and OBD2 reader.I also purchased a Eonon DAB USB stick. One thing that attracted me Eonon has pictures of all the radios it can replace and there was a picture of the Skoda Dance Radio. I ran the cable to rear camera by pushing into the headlining joint.Not wanting to drill the body I fixed to the plastic body of the top brake light. Also not attempting to push the plug end through the rubber gaiter I pushed a single cables through and spliced the joints. The live feed to power the camera I took from the reversing light on the nearside surprised to find a taped joint already there which I presumed powered the rear revering sensors. Should add bought cheap trim removal kit and worth every penny. More or less a case of plug it all in and away you go ,the only niggle was the DAB aerial plug was different ,so I installed the new DAB windscreen aerial that came with the USB stick. Only afterwards to find the correct plug on some junk in my garage had I known this I could have jointed this to my old aerial and saved myself some trouble. After several months getting used to it and gives me plenty to play with while waiting in the car for someone. I had 60 days to send it back if not satisfied but I'm keeping it. I always though rear view cameras were wonderful but no you still have to have eyes everywhere for running pedestrians and cars shooting up fast from the side. Happy with FM and DAB and music player and the couple of times taken calls hands free. Nav systems not as good as Tom Tom but gets me there. Sound equaliser overblown with 5 screens of different settings. Tells me which door is not closed properly whereas before would have to go round all doors till we found the right one after hearing alarm. There are video on YouTube of people installing. Will be to complicated for the average user so I cant give an outright recommendation. Also this was almost plug and play from past experience I treat car electrics with the greatest respect.

Yes I think I used a broad flat blade screwdriver . I think it went that there's a socket affair 2 on the car body side ,and just wires going through bellows 20 in the door side . So probably best to go for the door side and pull back the bellows there. Diagram as example.

Or it may be the plug connection in the rubber shroud is slightly loose.Where wires go from doors to body is the most common weakness in the Roomster.

I would suspect a broken or frayed wire in the rubber shroud between door and body .

(Is it worth spending £150 per hour asking a Skoda dealer to investigate) See if you have any specialist independent auto electricians nearby if you have to go the professional route to seek repair.

Worth looking at wires in rubber boot between body and rear tailgate as prone to breakage affecting tailgate lock and lights.. My passenger front door lock kept failing intermittently.. By chance whilst installing rear camera found broken wire ,repaired and all came good.

Glad it went well .

Many thanks Breezy I have now found diagram of fuel cooler and as it always dropped water there after the AC was on I assumed it was to do with the AC. Why it decided to drop the other side of the car is strange ,but if the AC works OK and the condensate is not coming into the car then the engine under shield can go back on and case can be closed. At least I've learned something about AC ( and the fuel cooler I didn't know I had) in the last few days. I enclose diagram of fuel system the cooler being no 4. Thanks for replies Bob

Found this old post so not alone with query.

Yes common problem on fabia/roomster Quite a few youtube videos I believe .I would tend to buy the new resister unit about £12 rather than soldier one in. Good luck tell us how you got on.

Yes thank you. Learned water is called condensate and as you say it may be normal drain route may be blocked.Wonder if I leave AC on and it continues working this may be the answer. But if it stops working then may be a refrigerant leak? But with this heat and hay fever going full blast don't feel much like doing anything. Did find this https://www.sandgateautoelectrics.com.au/car-air-conditioning-repair-5-reasons-vehicles-ac-leaks-water/

Usually after having AC on water drips on to the concrete from the small radiator (nowhere can i find out what this component is called or find it in a diagram) beneath the floor pan under the drivers seat .But now its dripping onto the concrete drive from a plastic channel under the passenger side about level with the passenger seat. I have had the engine under shield off ,firstly checking everything that might drip is sound . But no it only drips after air con has been on. So next stage when its cooler will be to look at AC pipework where it enters through bulkhead and into the cabin and perhaps have a better chance of what I am looking at amongst the myriad of pipes. Anyway learning as I go as till now I knew nothing about car AC but now know after a day or so a few things. i wonder if anyone has had a similar experience? I include a few diagrams out of interest.

Yes may be a sound move especially if you decide to keep the car long term.

Seems I had it wrong about the torx screws at the bottom of the doors .You can undo them from the inside due to recesses which sitting in the car you can feel with your finger to locate using your torx driver. My front lock seems to behaving now so screws put back in but may replace later. I know my back locks failure was intermittent sometimes working and other times locking solid putting the passengers at risk ,so I was glad to replace that one as soon as possible . As it question often asked on the forum how do I get a locked door open that seems to get no answers I did find this video which may help?

Perhaps coat it heavily with underseal if you don't want to buy a new liner?

Lock now delivered after delays with Royal Mail which i may now not need. In the interim I have left the 2 screw at the bottom door sill out fearing that if the lock failed in the locked position i wouldn't be able to get the inner door card off to get at the lock because these screws are hidden when the door is closed and you have to lift up the door card to free it and get at the lock. Or am I wrong and there is a way to free a faulty locked door from the inside>

Installing a new radio android head unit in the Roomster I was looking at threading a rear camera cable through the rubber cable boot when as I peeled it back I found a large black cable broken in two with bare ends exposed. I never noticed anything amiss prior to this except the front passenger lock failing to lock. But as a major fault on Roomsters it had to get me sooner or later. Repaired with new section of cable using cable crimps and all is well and the front door not locking problem has seemingly gone away. Im mindful that Amazon do a specific cable and boot kit for this should any more problems arise.