bobspark

Yes I think I used a broad flat blade screwdriver . I think it went that there's a socket affair 2 on the car body side ,and just wires going through bellows 20 in the door side . So probably best to go for the door side and pull back the bellows there. Diagram as example.

Or it may be the plug connection in the rubber shroud is slightly loose.Where wires go from doors to body is the most common weakness in the Roomster.

I would suspect a broken or frayed wire in the rubber shroud between door and body .

(Is it worth spending £150 per hour asking a Skoda dealer to investigate) See if you have any specialist independent auto electricians nearby if you have to go the professional route to seek repair.

Worth looking at wires in rubber boot between body and rear tailgate as prone to breakage affecting tailgate lock and lights.. My passenger front door lock kept failing intermittently.. By chance whilst installing rear camera found broken wire ,repaired and all came good.

Glad it went well .

Many thanks Breezy I have now found diagram of fuel cooler and as it always dropped water there after the AC was on I assumed it was to do with the AC. Why it decided to drop the other side of the car is strange ,but if the AC works OK and the condensate is not coming into the car then the engine under shield can go back on and case can be closed. At least I've learned something about AC ( and the fuel cooler I didn't know I had) in the last few days. I enclose diagram of fuel system the cooler being no 4. Thanks for replies Bob

Found this old post so not alone with query.

Yes common problem on fabia/roomster Quite a few youtube videos I believe .I would tend to buy the new resister unit about £12 rather than soldier one in. Good luck tell us how you got on.

Yes thank you. Learned water is called condensate and as you say it may be normal drain route may be blocked.Wonder if I leave AC on and it continues working this may be the answer. But if it stops working then may be a refrigerant leak? But with this heat and hay fever going full blast don't feel much like doing anything. Did find this https://www.sandgateautoelectrics.com.au/car-air-conditioning-repair-5-reasons-vehicles-ac-leaks-water/

Usually after having AC on water drips on to the concrete from the small radiator (nowhere can i find out what this component is called or find it in a diagram) beneath the floor pan under the drivers seat .But now its dripping onto the concrete drive from a plastic channel under the passenger side about level with the passenger seat. I have had the engine under shield off ,firstly checking everything that might drip is sound . But no it only drips after air con has been on. So next stage when its cooler will be to look at AC pipework where it enters through bulkhead and into the cabin and perhaps have a better chance of what I am looking at amongst the myriad of pipes. Anyway learning as I go as till now I knew nothing about car AC but now know after a day or so a few things. i wonder if anyone has had a similar experience? I include a few diagrams out of interest.

Yes may be a sound move especially if you decide to keep the car long term.

Seems I had it wrong about the torx screws at the bottom of the doors .You can undo them from the inside due to recesses which sitting in the car you can feel with your finger to locate using your torx driver. My front lock seems to behaving now so screws put back in but may replace later. I know my back locks failure was intermittent sometimes working and other times locking solid putting the passengers at risk ,so I was glad to replace that one as soon as possible . As it question often asked on the forum how do I get a locked door open that seems to get no answers I did find this video which may help?

Perhaps coat it heavily with underseal if you don't want to buy a new liner?

Lock now delivered after delays with Royal Mail which i may now not need. In the interim I have left the 2 screw at the bottom door sill out fearing that if the lock failed in the locked position i wouldn't be able to get the inner door card off to get at the lock because these screws are hidden when the door is closed and you have to lift up the door card to free it and get at the lock. Or am I wrong and there is a way to free a faulty locked door from the inside>

Installing a new radio android head unit in the Roomster I was looking at threading a rear camera cable through the rubber cable boot when as I peeled it back I found a large black cable broken in two with bare ends exposed. I never noticed anything amiss prior to this except the front passenger lock failing to lock. But as a major fault on Roomsters it had to get me sooner or later. Repaired with new section of cable using cable crimps and all is well and the front door not locking problem has seemingly gone away. Im mindful that Amazon do a specific cable and boot kit for this should any more problems arise.

I worry a lot too. "BUT IF IT AINT BROKE DONT FIX IT" is something I wish someone had told me when I was young!

I would say check oil sump level with buzzers going off? Check battery is giving out 12.1 volts or more after heater plugs have gone off. After my heater light goes off battery is showing 10 volt for another 30 seconds after which it goes up to 12.1 volt and then car will start.

In the long term I like to think it keeps the engine bay cleaner but that's just me.

Good luck let hope its clear cut and traced to the water pump.

https://www.blauparts.com/blog/vw-water-pump-replacement-information.html Didnt know there was a problem this may help.

Yes John mine was the same as if the parts were welded together! I have only had 5 cars in a lifetime and this is the first on to have this problem. The 12 to 13 years I have had the car its been garaged every night so corrosion ? I have always serviced my own cars but never thought to cover the threads and nut with copper grease as I now do. With the new parts even considered fitting a small electrical rubber shroud (used in electrical construction industry)and filling with grease to slide over thread and nut ,but thought this might confuse MOT and tyre staff. So annoyed my tyre place charged me for tracking when they knew the parts were seized and could not be adjusted and didn't even try heat. I am half way through a YouTube video on the Hunter system and it seems very involved .Wonder if its idiot operator proof?

Very slowly beginning to understand . Bought an online Haynes manual for the Roomster (they have never done one in book form) and this gave me tracking data of toe in 0.10 degrees. Not sure about the Haynes manual yet need to look at it more to say if its as good as the books.It doesn't go into strip downs and reassembly and in some cases seems to give more generic advice. I was a bit wary of going for a download manual in case it came with a virus. LaserWac say not to worry about centreline its all about getting wheels parallel and adjusting for toe in . Also I never knew there was such a thing as rear wheel toe but will stick with getting the front wheels right for now. I have always thought some of these tyre centres as being a bit dubious and reminds me of a neighbour out with his son in the Jag and the boy noticed bits flying of the car . He had just had four new tyres fitted at a major outlet and the wheel nuts had been overtightened and sheered off with the extra stresses incurred with the car travelling. They stopped before the wheels parted company with the car !God knows what would have happened if the guy had been travelling alone?

Yes your right Eswin . I'm about as good a typist as I am home mechanic but I get there in the end. Will try to get to grips with this tracking myself with garage as last resort. Nothing to lose.

Old trackrod and removal tool used