bobspark

Old trackrod and removal tool used

After a few years I realise my local tyre dealer has been taking me for a ride in regard to wheel tracking. My car failed its MOT last year on a tyre worn on the inside not really visible when looking at the tread .So I was sent off to get 2 new tyres on the front and the tracking done so as to pass the test. I noticed the tyre fitter frowning and struggling with the spanners. Keen to get the MOT certificate I pressed on ,only pondering later that I had the same wear on another tyre years ago and that visibly the front wheels were toeing out. So to settle this once and for all I went to Halfords for a full £75 alignment and 20 minutes later said it couldn't be done as everything was seized solid even after applying heat and there was no charge. They costed 2 new track arms complete with alignment at £450 . I declined and .thanked them for honesty. The penny dropped that my local tyre place over the years had been pretending to the tracking and charging me for it. I decided as a challenge to do the work my self and its not been easy with one trackrod end so tight I had to use a 2ft bar and socket to release it then cut through it with a hacksaw. I used a clamp tool to free the inner rod hub ,but if ( and I'm not)I was ever to do this again I would use the tube type tool which locks on the rear nut of the inner track rod. I thought the rubber boots might be a problem but putting the inner jubilee clip in place round the boot sliding it over the rod there was just enough run to tighten it with a spanner. Its cost me just over £100 with parts and a tracking device not that money was a problem. I bought a LaserWAC tracking device but have yet to get to grips with that , I cannot get it straight in my mind how it works to adjust each front wheel without a centre reference line. For now I have them roughly tracked parallel using two tape measures across the tyre treads. I tried to get tracking data from Eswin but that doesn't seem to work anymore. I did find a website J&L Techno which seem to indicate no toe in or out was acceptable but I'm not sure at all about what is correct. if anyone is clued up on tracking and the right data I would be grateful.

See if anything here helps.

The main problem that crops up is broken wires between door and body in the rubber gaiters. But there are kits to repair this. CHEERS BOB

I dont know about the 1.4 but my 2007 1.9 PD does not have a DPF so I have doubts about accuracy of these lists.

No experience but thanks for the heads up on this.

Sorry my gut feeling is walk away and look elsewhere. This car has not been cared for.

Looks like correct grommet part number for pump is 443 955 465 ,but old one is holding up. But would have been nice to have installed new with pump.

May be the lock failed I had this as an intermittent fault sometimes open sometimes not ,replaced lock all ok. Just make sure you buy correct lock. 2007 ROOMSTER 1.9 SCOUT NEARSIDE REAR PASSENGER LOCK FAIL - Skoda Roomster Mk I - BRISKODA

I also found this video on how to replace the bottle/tank if your unlucky and this has failed. I dare say bumper removal on Roomster will be slightly different.

Replaced with a febi 26259 from Amazon. Had to take the inner wing guard off to get to it ,lots of torx screw to remove some underneath in bumper and under engine cover. Wash tank grommet I bought from e-bay vw/audi 431955465A turned out to be wrong far to big. But things seem OK without it , but would be grateful if anyone knows correct part number as a standby. Glad the screen wash tank is not leaking as bumper would have had to come off to get to it for replacement!

What I found that helped me monitor the cars voltage was a cup holder cig socket/ USB doubler which has an led display which toggles between USB and car voltage. When the 1.9 diesel heater plugs energised on start up the voltage really drops to about 10.1volt ,and it also showed the relay stayed in some seconds after the heater light went out. You need at least 12 volt to start comfortably. I did check the heater plugs resistance all was normal. So in winter I wait till I can see 12.1 on the display I know I can start without problems.

Does this give any clues? SEAT LEON 2014 1.2 tsi Part 2 - Bing video

See if this helps

I would echo what has been said about lock choice ,cheaper variants don't match as I found out. And I also got one from abroad for£120. Safety is involved here so I dismissed second-hand and went for new.

Yes sounds good ,sometimes the experts with their experience doing it all the time save a lot of trouble and strife.

As someone who has followed this forum for about 10 years and seen this broken wire problem come up time and again , would it be possible to put this information as a special thread at the start of the forum under a heading along the lines that most electrical faults are down to broken wires in the rubber gaiter between body and door. New visitors to the forum could then go straight to the remedy. Just a thought.

Thanks for posting. Snow chains in Australia who would have thought? Thanks BOB

So glad your safe and well , and it looks as if the air bags did their job well.

Yes a good top tip from Wino .I only learnt about these fusible links on top of the battery box ,after I read an article in Car Mechanics magazine .Until then in my ignorance I didn't realise they were fuses, but thought they were just metal joining strips. Photo is an example from Octavia